2003cobra#2's 3.4 Whipple Build

cj428mach said:

I wouldn't risk that, have a whole tune built on bad O2 info. I had one of those clamp on O2 bungs on an aftermarket tbi efi setup and it leaked.

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This X 1 bazillion

2 data points you and your tuner will always want as accurate as possible: the ethanol % the fuel is testing from the pump......and the wideband readings. The tune has to be constructed on a reliable set of data

94slowbra1 said:

Well that's convenient, wish I had a mustang dyno I had unlimited access too. Would be much easier than making wot pulls on the hwy.
Get those drag radials on, you're going to need them!

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Yeah I was 99% sure I was going to take it to a shop because our dyno has no wideband and no one that tunes. Figured, I'll ad my wideband and remote tune it. Only problem is our Mustang Dyno reads low compared to a dynojet.

c6zhombre said:

This X 1 bazillion

2 data points you and your tuner will always want as accurate as possible: the ethanol % the fuel is testing from the pump......and the wideband readings. The tune has to be constructed on a reliable set of data

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I do have a E85 tester so I will be able to test what I have in the tank and what I put in going forward. I'll be interested in seeing what I have in the tank tests out at.

03cobra#2 said:

Yeah I was 99% sure I was going to take it to a shop because our dyno has no wideband and no one that tunes. Figured, I'll ad my wideband and remote tune it. Only problem is our Mustang Dyno reads low compared to a dynojet.

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All MDs read lower than DynoJet dynos. To the tune of 8% lower than DJ. Loaded cell vs unloaded.

Car sounds nasty man!

Sounds great man! Send those NT05R's back before you mount them lol. Had them on my 03, at 600whp it would blow them off in 1st, 2nd and even 3rd sometimes. Very disappointing.

Get some Hoosier drag radials

fivelitrecobra said:

Sounds great man! Send those NT05R's back before you mount them lol. Had them on my 03, at 600whp it would blow them off in 1st, 2nd and even 3rd sometimes. Very disappointing.

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I'll roll with them for now. It will be a improvement over the original F1's I have on their. Eventually I'll get a 10.5 rims for the rear and fo bigger.

Wings65288 said:

Get some Hoosier drag radials

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+1
Either Hoosiers, M&H or Mickey Thompson's when you get bigger rims. Anything but Nittos.
I would also consider stepping up to a 28" tall rear drag radial. Like a 325/45/17 (closer to 28.5")

Ken

03cobra#2 said:

Yeah I was 99% sure I was going to take it to a shop because our dyno has no wideband and no one that tunes. Figured, I'll ad my wideband and remote tune it. Only problem is our Mustang Dyno reads low compared to a dynojet.

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I really wouldn't consider it a problem as you're just using it to dial things in. I had to reset my thinking a little as the dyno I had my car on recently was a real heart breaker. But the car still runs strong.

Maybe this is a little late but depending on which exhaust you have, I was able to fit my AFR bung on my mid pipe just before the cat. This was convenient for being able to take the mid pipe off, I drilled the hole where I wanted it and dropped it off at a exhaust shop for welding the bung in place.

I got the bung welded in yesterday. The shop was a bit pricy but they put it in the right spot and the weld looks good.

Next up is getting everything wired up. I need to wire the wideband into my XCAL 4 so I can datalog my A/F using livelink II.

Half the battle has been getting the drivers installed for SCT programmer, livelink, innovative logworks & programmer. Good news is all my devices talk to the computer!

Trying to get SCT livelink to work is a fate worse than death.

My datalogging and tuning has been seamless. Should be fine

I had Malcolm help me, which made it a breeze.

I've never had issues with livelink...... my raggity ass laptop on the other hand... kill me. I wanted to through that thing out of the window while driving.. The display was on its last leg and would constantly flicker.. ended up being a wire that was breaking down, replaced and soldered it, so I'm hoping its good to go this time around.

NateDogg said:

I've never had issues with livelink...... my raggity ass laptop on the other hand... kill me. I wanted to through that thing out of the window while driving.. The display was on its last leg and would constantly flicker.. ended up being a wire that was breaking down, replaced and soldered it, so I'm hoping its good to go this time around.

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I think a lot of it is the laptop used. I know my Acer netbook isn't the fastest so I have different set ups for part throttle, WOT, and LWFM table.

Everything is hooked up and logging correctly it seems. Looks like at idle af is around 15-16. Next week I'll shoot over payment to my tuner and get to driving, and test the E85 I have in there to see what I'm dealing with fuel wise. After i get the street manners dialed in I'll hit the dyno for some wot pulls, possible pulley change depending on where boost is and some numbers!

and its a vert, love it! i may be a little biased
good news, sounds like its all coming together

I'm working with my tuner to get the idle dialed in (having trouble holding a idle). I noticed that the set screw on my TB was all the way out and the arm is not touching the set screw. I'm concerned the person I bought it from may have messed with the set screw. Before my tuner pulls his hair out trying to dial in the idle is there anything I can do to make sure the TB blade is set correctly? SCT live link says that my absolute blade position is starting right around 200 and my TPS sensor is saying .97 or so closed to I think I'm good there. I'm just concerned that the TB blade is not calibrated correctly and not letting enough air through. Thoughts?

Basically you get car to a warm idle, unplug iac and adjust blade to where the idle is about 50rpm below target. Then shut car off, plug in iac and adjust tps to get around 200ct when turned off.

Idle issues could be from large cams, too much overlap, and boost bypass issues.