Has anyone here replaced the inside accessory drive belt.? I just want to replace the belt due to age, any tips would be appreciated. It looks like it could be a pain to do, the supercharger belt was easy to replace. Thanks for your help in advance.
Inner front accessory drive belt replacement
- Thread starter CSCOBRA03
- Start date
The level of difficulty depends on your lower crank pulley. If it's the stock caged pulley you need to pull it in order to get the belt off. If it's an aftermarket set up the belt will slide right off. I think I took the pulley bridge off mine as well.
Side note, while you're in there replace the idler pullies. Or the bearings at least. I changed out all the bearings in mine while I was there.
Side note, while you're in there replace the idler pullies. Or the bearings at least. I changed out all the bearings in mine while I was there.
It's not terrible to get to. Years ago I snapped a aux idler bolt on the bridge. I had to remove the bridge in order to have the broken bolt removed. I should have replaced the belt! Even though the car only had 21-22k miles.
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As stated. The lower pulley is the hard spot.
This may break loose easy. Or like others a couple days of trying.
For me. I put a bar in slip yoke to hold crank shaft
There is a fly wheel holding tool if you can find it.
The Allen bolt is 14mm/9-16
And is reverse thread.
This may break loose easy. Or like others a couple days of trying.
For me. I put a bar in slip yoke to hold crank shaft
There is a fly wheel holding tool if you can find it.
The Allen bolt is 14mm/9-16
And is reverse thread.
Aren't you still running the stock lower though?
Thanks for the replies, I know the bolt is left hand thread and I looked up the torque spec and it is only 70 lb. ft. But I know it can be tough to get loose. The reason I started this project is a radiator replacement, so once I was there I thought why not place the belts and hoses as a preventive measure. As 01 yeller pointed out I probably should replace the idlers also, thats a good tip !
Thanks to all, SVTP always comes through !!!!
Thanks to all, SVTP always comes through !!!!
if the back wheels are on the ground I'd just put in 3rd.
The car will move.
Even with brakes on and chocked.
But look at. Your trying to move the least amount of pieces between crank and Allen bolt.
All the drive will have to take the torque from that 1 bolt before it will even get to bolt.
Hence fly wheel locking tool.
Here it’s just flywheel forward.
To the OP, I had read the horror stories regarding the crank pulley removal. I also wanted to replace the belt simply as a proactive measure. Chose to take it to a Ford dealer and let them fight with it plus I didn't have the right tools anyway. IIRC, it cost me somewhere in the neighborhood of $600. Just throwing that out in case you've considered or are considering taking it in to have it done.
I just did this over the winter. Wasn't nearly as bad as I was anticipating.
I used the trick where you use a floor jack to apply pressure to the ratchet/breaker bar handle and break the crank pulley bolt loose. If you do a search, you should find the write up that someone made.
Good luck.
I used the trick where you use a floor jack to apply pressure to the ratchet/breaker bar handle and break the crank pulley bolt loose. If you do a search, you should find the write up that someone made.
Good luck.
Probably be a bit of a pain then. Depending on how stubborn your lower is.
That's what I did. 18" breaker bar and 3 ton floor jack. Super easy.
Breaker bar with the entire floor jack handle as a cheater. Works everytime on the first try and I've done it a total of 8 times on 3 different 03 Cobras. 6th gear with the parking brake set on a manual. Crank holding tool after my auto swap.
Ken
Ken
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Meh, I got faith I'd get it. I seen a thread from years ago on a "how to" remove crank pulley using a floor jack and breaker bar method.
Might happen soon enough if I install a lower.
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I will try it tomorrow and let you know how I get it done. I have the proper breaker bar and a quality allen socket (made in USA!), but I don't have access to the flywheel lock tool. I will lock the trans in gear and also try to use a bar in the driveshaft yoke to help hold the engine, and pray this works! I was a Ford certified Master Tech for 47 years, now retired and working on my back, things are so much easier with a lift. I currently have the Cobra on my Quick Jack and I may have to lower it down. I have heard the horror stories and I pray that this is not one of them.
And you're a big dude. You'll probably be able to do it with a 3/8" ratchet.
There's a special tool that completely locks the flywheel. Once that is done, it's not hard to break the crank pulley bolt loose. As far as the rest of the procedure, it's spelled out in the service manual. Has been downloadable for years --------> SVT Documents
Flywheel tool:
Flywheel tool:
Do you have to pull the starter to use that tool?
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