Rubber boots shot on ball joints, going w/ Steeda X2, do I really need bump steer kit?

cbehr

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While swapping coupe springs in my vert and cutting 1/2 of a coil to lower a little I found the front ball joint boots completely torn apart. A little research and I've read the Steeda X2 ball joints are recommended for lowered cars. Some also suggest the bump steer kit...is this really necessary for a slight drop like I'm going? I'll buy if necessary but then I need to figure out how to adjust them as well which seems like a PITA.
 

01yellercobra

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So skip the X2's and just get cheaper Moog's for $27 each on rock auto and then add caster/camber plates?
My only suggestion beyond that would be to check the inner bushings as well. If the ball joints are shot more than likely the bushings are too. If they need to be replaced it might be worth picking up new control arms.

If the bushings are still decent then I'd go with the Moog ball joints.
 

cbehr

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My only suggestion beyond that would be to check the inner bushings as well. If the ball joints are shot more than likely the bushings are too. If they need to be replaced it might be worth picking up new control arms.

If the bushings are still decent then I'd go with the Moog ball joints.

Good deal, I'll check tonight when I get home but don't think they seemed bad, car has 50k miles...the boot rubber was just bad on the ball joints.
 

shurur

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There are also pro-forged x2 ball joints.
I just got rid of my steeda for proforged

You can phase in mods to the front as you want.
Everything is easy to get at. Whereas the IRS is an all or nothing mod.

Also look at leveling your swaybar at some point...not a biggie.
 
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cbehr

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There are also pro-forged x2 ball joints.
I just got rid of my steeda for proforged

Why did you make the switch? Any noticeable difference? These are a bit cheaper than the Steeda version.
 

Blkkbgt

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Honestly I think you'd be better off with stock replacements unless you really want to go through the tedious process of actually doing the bumpsteer correctly. Most people will say to just set the tie rod level with the a arm but when you actually go through that process you realized just how much your curve can change with a .035 washer. To me this proves that setting the tie rod level with the a arm isn't the best idea. Keep in mind you will also need a bumpsteer gauge to set everything correctly.
 

01yellercobra

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I have a bump steer kit on my car. I used the settings from the car it came out of. It's close, but needs work. I only have it because I also have the MM K member.
 

cbehr

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Yeah I really don't want to mess with adjusting bump steer...all this stuff is very confusing. So will my bump steer be pushed further out of balance by the Proforged or Steeda ball joints vs. just factory replacements?

I need to get some camber/caster plates too. Seems MM is the way to go but honestly don't know where to take the car that someone would know how to dial these in.
 

Blkkbgt

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Yeah I really don't want to mess with adjusting bump steer...all this stuff is very confusing. So will my bump steer be pushed further out of balance by the Proforged or Steeda ball joints vs. just factory replacements?

I need to get some camber/caster plates too. Seems MM is the way to go but honestly don't know where to take the car that someone would know how to dial these in.

Yes adding a taller ball joint WILL change your bumpsteer curve in a negative way. Your bumpsteer is not effected with your current setup as the relationship between the tie rod and a arm are still the same.

CC plates are not hard to dial in compared to the stock pieces. In fact the are actually easier. If you find an alignment shop that won't touch your car because of them you didn't want an alignment from them anyway as they are most likely incompetent.

When you get an alignment don't allow them to send you out of the shop with one that is "in spec dude". In spec doesn't equal good. Find a shop that will set the alignment to what MM says for a street car and make sure they give you a printout to prove it. It may take you a day or so to find a good shop but it will be worth it in the end. Most places won't allow you to dictate the settings so be prepared to call several places.
 

hotcobra03

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50k is nothing

You can get just boots.

FWIW. Moog took over TRW chassis parts years ago.
But it’s crazy how a lot of stuff is just rebox.
 

cbehr

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Yes adding a taller ball joint WILL change your bumpsteer curve in a negative way. Your bumpsteer is not effected with your current setup as the relationship between the tie rod and a arm are still the same.

Ok so the MM caster/camber plates can correct some bump steer but probably not the entire way without a bumpsteer kit if you have the Proforge/Steeda ball joints?
 

cbehr

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50k is nothing

You can get just boots.

FWIW. Moog took over TRW chassis parts years ago.
But it’s crazy how a lot of stuff is just rebox.

I didn't even consider just replacing the boots...I just thought a whole new ball joint was needed at this point.
 

01yellercobra

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Ok so the MM caster/camber plates can correct some bump steer but probably not the entire way without a bumpsteer kit if you have the Proforge/Steeda ball joints?
You're confusing two different things. The caster/camber plates only adjust caster and camber. They replace the strut mounts at the top of the strut tower. As mentioned it makes setting the adjustment easier and gives you more room to adjust.

The bump steer kit replaces the outer tie rod that's connected to the spindle. It adjusts the angle of the tie rod compared to the steering rack. It has nothing to do with caster or camber.

I'd pull the spindle and check the ball joint before making a decision. If you're lucky and the boot recently came apart the joint might still be tight. But if it's been open like that for a while chances are the grease is gone and the join is loose and worn out.
 

cbehr

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Thanks, I just thought for some reason that adjusting caster and camber had an impact on bumpsteer... I found a couple good articles on MM's website I'm going to read this weekend.

I'll check it out the ball joints this weekend to see if there is any play in them.

The tie rod ends seem to have a lot of grease packed around the outside of the boot them so I'm guessing the boots are on the empty side.
 

shurur

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Why did you make the switch? Any noticeable difference? These are a bit cheaper than the Steeda version.

The steeda x2 ball joints were all worn out and boots were shot. I heard good things about the proforged.

You can hold off on some of this stuff...like the x2 ball joints and bump steer...the really should be done as a set anyway.

It is probably much ado about nothing for a daily driver anyway.
 

cbehr

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Yeah I agree, this is a summer dd that might see 450-500hp, this suspension stuff is like a worm hole where you can just keep going deeper and deeper! Here is the worn ball joint boot and tie rod end expelling grease.
7F5C7DAA-7E9B-4CB4-8F0C-44BBCE7B4D60.jpeg
 

shurur

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The moog stuff mentioned is quality stuff.

Another thing to consider later...imo...should you keep your kmember, is global west del-a-lum (DELRIN) front control arm bushings. They shift the control arms forward, thus the motor weigh a bit backward.
 
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