Engine build with new 4.6 block?

Blkkbgt

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So after some searching I've got a line on some NOS iron 4.6 blocks. This got me thinking about building an essentially new engine.

The benefits would be that I would have the maximum amount out meat in the cylinder walls and unless I went with ARP main studs I'd be able to skip the trip to the machine shop. The downside would be that it's slightly more expensive due to the cost of the NOS block.

Skipping the trip to the machine shop is probably the biggest benefit to me. This is because finding a trust worthy shop in my area that actually has deck plates for a 4.6 seems to be non-existent. The one guy I trusted basically let his shop go down the tubes because of his divorce and I've genuinely been screwed by 2 others. A few of you may have read my rant in a terminator section thread. Basically in this area if you're not running an old school engine or an LS you're screwed.

I've built/rebuilt more then a few engines. I've done backyard hone and re-ring jobs and helped people build up freshly bored engines. I have all the tools minus my damn dial bore gauge that I can't find! I despise the idea of buying an engine from an engine builder. With building my own and helping others I've put together at least 8 engines that I remember, maybe as many as 10.

With all that said I have never once bought or seen anyone buy a new factory block and put an engine together.

So has anyone ever gone down this road before? If you have what were your experiences and would you do it again? Any other opinions from experienced builders is also appreciated.

Sorry for the long read.
 

buffalosoldier

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This goes back a long ways but I remember hearing that a brand new block needed to be seasoned by being heat treated in an oven before assembly. Could be a BS story but thats just what I was told when I thought about buying a new block, went with a long block crate engine instead. Be interested in finding out the real deal myself if anyone here knows the answer

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Blkkbgt

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This goes back a long ways but I remember hearing that a brand new block needed to be seasoned by being heat treated in an oven before assembly. Could be a BS story but thats just what I was told when I thought about buying a new block, went with a long block crate engine instead. Be interested in finding out the real deal myself if anyone here knows the answer

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That makes absolutely no sense at all when you think about it.

Idk where you picked that up from but when AM, LMR and FRPP sold these blocks back in the day not a word was ever mentioned about something like that.

Lastly WHO outside of a factory would have the ability to actually accomplish that?
 

buffalosoldier

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I had a hard time reconciling that info but in the day it was considered better to recondition a used block that to start new. I am going back 50 years.

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Blkkbgt

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Im still confused why anybody would put an iron block in these cars

If I could find a new aluminum block then I'd go that route. Seems like FRPP snagged all the 05 3v blocks for their aluminator builds.

I think you missed the part where I am trying to avoid the shity machine shops in my area that don't have deck plates for these engines. Again I've also been screwed by 2 of them.

Lastly I have no problem putting an iron block back into the car since that is what was there before. Yes I'd love to have the weight reduction but its not that big of a deal to me.
 

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