Is the banjo bolt on the new edge GT PBR the same as the one needed for the ATS Brembo?
Installing ATS Brembos on the Cobra.
- Thread starter GodStang
- Start date
I don’t know if this is any constellation to your answer but I took the banjo bolt from my stainless steel hoses and tested to see if it would fit and the narrow one went into the ATS caliper IIRC. Mine are not installed yet FYI.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The PBR caliper on my 2003 GT has the coarse thread. The Brembo caliper has fine threads. I do not know the dimensions of the correct banjo bolt at this time. I already have Russell stainless lines. Just need to find the correct bolt now....
Bolt size is an M10-1.0. However, I don't know if the length is the same as the Russell that I have now that is ~1.25" as near as I can measure without removing it completely and making a huge mess.
It looks like the Dorman 14100 is an M10-1.0 that is 27.5mm (1.08") long. With my Russell banjo block and a couple of copper crush washers, I should get about 0.5" of engagement in to the caliper. I have no idea if that is good or not. The threads on the caliper are about 1.0" deep.
Doesn't look like these come with crush washers. Looks like Dorman 66250 crush washers will work.
It looks like the Dorman 14100 is an M10-1.0 that is 27.5mm (1.08") long. With my Russell banjo block and a couple of copper crush washers, I should get about 0.5" of engagement in to the caliper. I have no idea if that is good or not. The threads on the caliper are about 1.0" deep.
Doesn't look like these come with crush washers. Looks like Dorman 66250 crush washers will work.
Last edited:
So these banjo bolts worked. The washers are a bit oversized but no leaks. Bleeding these Brembo's is a pain. Lots of trapped air. Ran the MC dry (one of the front bleeders was loose when I started at the back). Had to bleed MC. Then peddle still spongy. Just ordered a Motive pressure bleeder. The dual bleeders and the Brembo's are challenging. I am using Motul RBF600. This stuff is expensive so tying to do this without wasting too much. I have heard that you can tap the Brembo with a soft mallet to dislodge bubbles. The only way to really do that though is with a power bleeder...
Silver, use some speedbleeders. Open both up at the same time and run some clear hose to a bucket. Let them gravity bleed for a bit. Make sure the MC doesn’t run dry. Once fluid comes out the bleeder close the outer one and pump brake pedal to bleeder inner.close the inner and move to outer. Bleeder the outer and your done.
l’ve personally have done 2 swaps already and assisted on 2 more. This has been the sure bang way of getting all the darn air out. Good luck
l’ve personally have done 2 swaps already and assisted on 2 more. This has been the sure bang way of getting all the darn air out. Good luck
Thanks for the tips! Much appreciated. What speed bleeders are you using?
Light tap of the mallet and motive power bleeder 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
On a completely separate note, do not use the VHT high temp caliper paint. This stuff might as well be regular rattle can paint as far as resistance to brake fluid. I followed the full instructions, baked them and everything. I just assumed that since this this is specifically for calipers it would be resistant to brake fluid. Nope. All the effort I put into prepping these was a waste. Eff it. I’m leaving it with the new stripes caused by fluid runs. It’s a track car more or less. At least the Cadillac logo is covered.
SilverGT, I bought them at Napa m10x1.0 speed bleeders. I think they were $15 and change per set.
No rattle can paint will withstand brake fluid. It has NOTHING to do with VHT. Ive seen brake fluid lift powder coat as well.
That is what he is getting at. The product he thought that was going to be brake fluid resistant, was the quality of cheap rattle can paint. Don't think he was stating rattle can will suffice. Yeah, brake fluid is some nasty stuff.
Well when he says don't use VHT paint it seems like he's blaming the paint.
Maybe because if it's prepped and painted correctly, it should be resistant to brake fluid? So yes, he's blaming the paint, and if properly prepped and painted, he has every right to do so. Their website states:
"Curing Caliper PaintVHT Caliper Paint only attains its unique properties after correct curing. Please note that brake fluid will remove uncured paint if it comes in contact with the surface.
"Curing Caliper PaintVHT Caliper Paint only attains its unique properties after correct curing. Please note that brake fluid will remove uncured paint if it comes in contact with the surface.
- On the Vehicle
- Paint must be dry for 2 hours before vehicle can be driven
- The inherent heat of the braking operation will accomplish curing under normal driving conditions
- Off the Vehicle
- Bake at 200°F (93°C) for 1 hour
- Reassemble after components have cooled"
Do you not know what VHT caliper paint is?
Nope. Not in all my 20+ years of working on cars have I ever heard or seen a single can of VHT paint.
But in all seriousness even baked/cured VHT will still lift with brake fluid despite what they tell you. Been there done that, hence why I said no rattle can paint will withstand brake fluid.
I get what you're saying, but when a company advertises it as such, well, you'd expect it to work. Even this claims to be resistant to brake fluid.
I dont have a pedal assembly out of the car but my seats are currently out. I'll try and get you a measurement before the drivers side goes back in. I think it is possible.
@Mustang5L5
Just got out from under the dash. Measurements:
Total length = 14.25 (measured to the bottom of the pedal.
Length to the top of the pedal = 11.5
Length to the center of the pedal = 12.75
Pivot pin to booster connector pin = 2.625.
The distance of the pedal changes depending on how I measure it. One way gets the numbers above. Another way gets me 13in to the center of the pad. It's not easy since its curved.
The pivot to the booster pin may be 2.8 assuming I am in the center of the pivot. My previous measurements were outside edge to outside edge (bottom edge to bottom edge looking up).
Either way I am getting a ratio in the mid to low 4s depending on what numbers I use. I wish I could be more accurate but I am not the smallest guy in the world and its still a tight fit for me even with the seat out.
Just got out from under the dash. Measurements:
Total length = 14.25 (measured to the bottom of the pedal.
Length to the top of the pedal = 11.5
Length to the center of the pedal = 12.75
Pivot pin to booster connector pin = 2.625.
The distance of the pedal changes depending on how I measure it. One way gets the numbers above. Another way gets me 13in to the center of the pad. It's not easy since its curved.
The pivot to the booster pin may be 2.8 assuming I am in the center of the pivot. My previous measurements were outside edge to outside edge (bottom edge to bottom edge looking up).
Either way I am getting a ratio in the mid to low 4s depending on what numbers I use. I wish I could be more accurate but I am not the smallest guy in the world and its still a tight fit for me even with the seat out.
Last edited:
Users who are viewing this thread
