Valve cover swap in humid garage

How long can I have a valve cover off in a Houston garage before I need to start worrying about corrosion? There was still an oil sheen from running it 3 days before I got the driver side off (now a week ago), but I straight up exhausted myself getting to that point and had to walk away and sleep.

It's not an issue. Those parts have been baked in oil, so it's not a whole lot different with the valve covers in place than they are off the engine, unless it's out in the elements where rain can get to it. I'd be more fearful of insects or other pests and airborne dirt particles. I couldn't hurt to lay some old rags or towels over the heads. Foil can be molded to the confines pretty well too. If you can lay the valve cover in place with a couple bolts even better.

Thanks Catmonkey. It's been in a closed-door garage out of the elements until I can get back to it. Rags are laid on top of the head. Fans are off to reduce dirt circulation.

Should've put the cover back on w/ bolts after I got the booster out, but I had mentally blocked that out I think. Should've pulled the booster from the beginning.

I’ll definitely be selling the car if these peel the way I hear they’re prone to do. Does anyone know of an epoxy or something someone can smear on a peeling area to stop the bleeding?

Should I lube the new gaskets with some oil? Apart from the RTV areas of course

What did you get yourself into? What's peeling?

Nothing yet, but I’ve heard reports of the blue wrinkle paint peeling. I’d rather pull my front two teeth (or sell the car) than remove the driver side cover again.

Gotcha! Seems to relative to the milage and age of the vehicle. Premier powder coating companies can prep and match with great results.

I've always put the gaskets on dry. You don't want oil around the areas that require silicone. It would be a good idea to remove the gaskets and dry the recess out as best you can. Remove whatever old silicone you can too.

I bought new gaskets and the new covers were recoated and haven’t seen oil since. Thanks for the tips.

Does anyone know what size the EGR bolts are? Cause I just f*cking stripped a VMP EGR bolt hole.

What did you have to do to get the Drivers side off? I have previously read that the LH (Drivers side) was the bad side, but not any detail on what it took to remove and reinstall the cover. I have a NIB set of the FRPP Chrome valve covers for the 5.4/5.8 DOHC and I do not want to beat up a new cover putting it on, that would defeat the purpose of installing those covers....The unknown on the LH side is why I have not gotten into that project.

R

Off hand, I'm guessing 10mm, but I don't have one handy to verify. I'd heli-coil it and contact VMP about getting their EGR studs instead of using bolts. Which supercharger are you running?

The drivers side is absolutely the bad side. I move slowly and meticulously, tape off and label all loose connectors, zip tie everything out of the way, overthink everything etc etc and I probably have 24 hours in this project. Just the drivers side. To a normal person that’s probably more like 8-10 hours. If I had just removed the booster the way the Ford manual suggests it would’ve taken half the time.

This link is a detailed step by step that gets you close, but in my opinion doesn’t get you there as you’ll still be fighting to get the old cover off and the new one on - which means tearing the new one up or cutting the gasket:
How to Install Blue Valve Covers

The author had a stock blower with removable elbow, so you’ll have to pull the blower in addition to those steps as well. You do NOT have to remove the fuel rails, just the fuel line going to the drivers side rail. I also used a ratchet strap to pull and hold the booster up and toward the fender, and another strap around the blower snout to gently pull the motor toward the passenger side (loosening the motor mounts on both sides). The motor passenger side strap didn’t help enough to make it worthwhile so I didn’t even use it on reinstall. It may buy you that critical 1/4” depending on how you go about yours. Since it was still very difficult to get the old one off, I simply removed the booster to install the new cover. I also removed the drivers seat, and do not regret it.

If you’re familiar with dropping the k-member, that is honestly the easiest way, but you’ll need longer bolts for the drivers side (Catmonkey suggested this and I believe he’s done it) and you’ll have to remove the sway bar and sway bar mounts. That job just isn’t something I felt comfortable enough with but would undoubtedly be faster if you are and it gets you enough clearance.

Going by the how-to above, the booster is already 90% removed. I removed the front drivers side tire and caliper hard line to drain the reservoir as far as possible before removing the lines at the reservoir. Then I ran a vacuum hose taped to a makeshift funnel underneath the booster hard line connections and out below the car through the engine bay to avoid as much fluid hitting the engine bay paint as possible. Rags took care of the rest. Ideally, buy a couple bolts the same size as the hard line male ends to plug off the reservoir that way. They’re not the same size. Twisted up shop towels worked ok instead.

Honestly even with the motor dropped down that booster still looks problematic to me - since you’re going to be reinstalling with a soft gasket and wet RTV on the front timing cover seams - but I haven’t attempted it so can’t say for sure. If you have to loosen the booster to jerk it to one side either way, I strongly recommend just removing it. It wasn’t difficult and no matter how hard you pull/ratchet strap it only buys you 1/2”-3/4” tops. Once I had the booster out I had plenty of clearance for a smooth install. The gasket kit can be found at any auto parts store but you can probably reuse the old one if you’re willing to take the chance of a soul crushing leak. The felpro kit comes with black cover bolt grommets which looks better than OEM grays, though I’m waiting on a set of BPS bolts/spacers ultimately.

I honestly don’t know if I’d do it again knowing now what it took, even though I could probably do it in 6 hours now.

Pictures:

Catmonkey said:

Off hand, I'm guessing 10mm, but I don't have one handy to verify. I'd heli-coil it and contact VMP about getting their EGR studs instead of using bolts. Which supercharger are you running?

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Thanks man. I overnighted the VMP studs last night since I daily this thing. I was just going to jb weld a stud in but heli-coil is probably better... I read that 18 ft lbs is the spec for those bolts but it was enough to strip the VMP holes either way. I’m pretty sure it’s an 8mm I’m just not sure about pitch. I’m running a Gen 2.

mdoan said:

The drivers side is absolutely the bad side. I move slowly and meticulously, tape off and label all loose connectors, zip tie everything out of the way, etc etc and I probably have 24 hours in this project. Just the drivers side.

This link is a detailed step by step that gets you close, but in my opinion doesn’t get you there as you’ll still be fighting to get the old cover off and the new one on - which means tearing the new one up or cutting the gasket:
How to Install Blue Valve Covers

The author had a stock blower with removable elbow, so you’ll have to pull the blower in addition to those steps to get it off. I also used a ratchet strap to pull the hold the booster tip and toward the fender, and another around the blower snout to pull the motor toward the passenger side (loosening the motor mounts on both sides). The motor passenger side strap didn’t help enough to make it worthwhile so I didn’t even use it on reinstall. Since it was still very difficult to get the old one off, I simply removed the booster to install the new cover. I also removed the drivers seat, and do not regret it.

If you’re familiar with dropping the k-member, that is honestly the easiest way, but you’ll need longer bolts for the drivers side and you’ll have to remove the sway bar and sway bar mounts. That job just isn’t something I felt comfortable enough with but would undoubtedly be faster if it gets you enough clearance.

Going by the how-to above, the booster is already 90% removed. I ran a vacuum hose taped to a makeshift funnel underneath the booster hard line connections and out below the car through the engine bay to avoid as much fluid hitting the engine bay paint as possible. Rags took care of the rest. Ideally, buy a couple bolts the same size as the hard line male ends to plug off the reservoir that way. They’re not he same size. Twisted up shop towels worked ok instead.

Honestly even with the motor dropped down that booster still seems problematic to me, but I haven’t attempted it. If you have to loosen the booster and try to jerk it to one side, I strongly recommend just removing it. It wasn’t difficult and no matter how hard you pull/ratchet strap it only buys you 1/2”-3/4”. Once I had the booster out I had plenty of clearance for a smooth install. The gasket kit can be found at any auto parts store but you can probably reuse the old one if you’re willing to take the chance of a soul crushing leak.

I honestly don’t know if I’d do it again knowing now what it took, even though I could probably do it in 6 hours now.

Pictures:

Click to expand...

Thanks, I scanned through the detailed RH side info. in your link and I fully read the detailed LH side info.......WOW!!

I know it would be more work, but I agree, I think the "booster out" would be the best option to not force things during the R&R. Plus, it never hurts to do a brake system flush once the booster and M/C are back in place for the brake bleeding. Just make sure that the open brake system does not get brake fluid on the paint in the engine compartment below the M/C.....

Your car is a mid-2008, 2009 or 2010?

R

2010. Some fluid on that paint is probably inevitable FYI. I sprayed with quick detailer and wiped down as soon as I could, so hopefully I won’t lose any paint.

mdoan said:

2010. Some fluid on that paint is probably inevitable FYI. I sprayed with quick detailer and wiped down as soon as I could, so hopefully I won’t lose any paint.

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I saw the CAI tube and that looked 2010, but my first indication that it was not a 2007-early 2008 was the master cylinder reservoir. The earlier cars had a larger M/C reservoir and I was wondering if that may also get in the way of a LH valve cover R&R? My 2008 has the larger plastic reservoir...I don't know why Ford changed it, but it was a production change in mid-2008......maybe cost? or use in other Ford models?

Thank you for your information.

R

Some of Ford’s equipment changes over the years have a justifiable reason. Many do not.

More reason to just remove the booster and M/C.

The spacer blocks they use on the 2R and the Gen 3s have a lot more meat for threads, and everything else, not so much. If you do install the helicoil, you'd be wise to do it with the supercharger off the car and do what you can to capture any aluminum bits from getting into the rotor area. It's not too difficult to remove the rotors, so that's an option too. I'd also snug the bolt for the egr in place on the opposing side snug while you both drill and tap for the helicoil. It's going to need to be pretty straight, which is not always that easy to do with a hand drill.

Catmonkey said:

The spacer blocks they use on the 2R and the Gen 3s have a lot more meat for threads, and everything else, not so much. If you do install the helicoil, you'd be wise to do it with the supercharger off the car and do what you can to capture any aluminum bits from getting into the rotor area. It's not too difficult to remove the rotors, so that's an option too. I'd also snug the bolt for the egr in place on the opposing side snug while you both drill and tap for the helicoil. It's going to need to be pretty straight, which is not always that easy to do with a hand drill.

Click to expand...

Agreed. Once I knew it was stripped I pulled the blower to see if any shavings dropped anyway. Definitely not going to drill with it on the car. I can reach the stripped hole from the inside with my hand so it should be pretty easy to capture the drill debris by stuffing a rag between the rotors and bolt hole, or leaving a vacuum running on the inside while I drill, or some combination of both.

Straightness is definitely a concern. I have a drill press but I’m likely to cause more damage trying to get a blower mounted to it. Just have to set up comfortably with the handheld and pray for mercy, or at least karma since every other aspect of this job has been a dumpster fire.