Trailering question?

black 10th vert

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Just dont drill holes in you car for a bracket
That’s something I definitely don’t want, especially if it will show. I believe you may need to drill holes in the metal bumper support for the ZL1 tow hook, which I’d be ok with as long as it doesn’t show, or affect the bumper cover.
 

black 10th vert

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I use these also. Trailer Ramps
Those may be a good option if the approach angle is too much. My trailer is beavertailed, and has decent ramps, so I’m hoping that part will be ok, but I honestly haven’t tried to load the car yet. I’ll have the same issue with my Miata as well because it is very low. Nice to have options like this, though they are a bit pricey.
 

black 10th vert

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For those that have removed the bumper cover, is it difficult? I’ve never taken mine off, but it looks as though I’ll need to in order to install a tow hook if I go that route. I suppose, if I have to remove the cover, I could always take it off to load the car, but that seems like a pain, plus it increases the chances of scratching or damaging it.
 

03' White Snake

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For those that have removed the bumper cover, is it difficult? I’ve never taken mine off, but it looks as though I’ll need to in order to install a tow hook if I go that route. I suppose, if I have to remove the cover, I could always take it off to load the car, but that seems like a pain, plus it increases the chances of scratching or damaging it.

The bumper is easy to remove. 2 10mm nuts on both sides, front splash shield screws, plastic pins near grill and 2 near the HE on the bottom. I remove the headlights because there are tabs that align with the headlight support under headlights. Takes about 10-15 mins once you get good at it.
 

03' White Snake

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I also have a 2' beaver tail trailer, my car is pretty low. I need extra ramps to get my car on the trailer. I have 2x10 boards screwed to my trailer deck to raise the car doors above the fenders so I can open the doors. Also, this allows my subframe connectors and exhaust to not catch the lip at the beaver tail and the trailer deck. Makes it much easier to load the car being able to open the doors. I drive right up my trailer.

Like I said. I use the a arms to strap it down. I cross the rears. I would never trust using just a winch for the front. I always use 4 straps.

I used 3 one time in the winter for a short haul and it cost me a front bumper because the car slide on an icy trailer. Car cut us off, we slammed on the brakes, car slide forward at an angle and folded the front bumper on the trailer. Cracked it because it was cold. Long story short, ALWAYS use 4 straps and never trust a winch.

Screenshot_20200717-215703_Gallery.jpg
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Screenshot_20200717-215941_Gallery.jpg
 
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specracer

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Both of our enclosed trailers have winches. I still drive in, when I have a spotter (have 2 cars that are WIDE with only ~2" from the wheel to the trailers wheel wells). If Im solo, I have used the winch, but thats rare. Having to winch, is just an extra step I prefer to avoid.
 

black 10th vert

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The bumper is easy to remove. 2 10mm nuts on both sides, front splash shield screws, plastic pins near grill and 2 near the HE on the bottom. I remove the headlights because there are tabs that align with the headlight support under headlights. Takes about 10-15 mins once you get good at it.
Thanks, sounds pretty simple.
 

black 10th vert

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I also have a 2' beaver tail trailer, my car is pretty low. I need extra ramps to get my car on the trailer. I have 2x10 boards screwed to my trailer deck to raise the car doors above the fenders so I can open the doors. Also, this allows my subframe connectors and exhaust to not catch the lip at the beaver tail and the trailer deck. Makes it much easier to load the car being able to open the doors. I drive right up my trailer.

Like I said. I use the a arms to strap it down. I cross the rears. I would never trust using just a winch for the front. I always use 4 straps.

I used 3 one time in the winter for a short haul and it cost me a front bumper because the car slide on an icy trailer. Car cut us off, we slammed on the brakes, car slide forward at an angle and folded the front bumper on the trailer. Cracked it because it was cold. Long story short, ALWAYS use 4 straps and never trust a winch.

View attachment 1652447 View attachment 1652448 View attachment 1652449
Thank you for the tips, and the pics! This will be a first run through for me. I still have to move the E-tracks before I attempt to load it, as the previous owner used it to transport a 1950’s era MG which had a much narrower track width.
 

black 10th vert

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Both of our enclosed trailers have winches. I still drive in, when I have a spotter (have 2 cars that are WIDE with only ~2" from the wheel to the trailers wheel wells). If Im solo, I have used the winch, but thats rare. Having to winch, is just an extra step I prefer to avoid.
Interesting, I would’ve thought for sure with an enclosed trailer, that it would be easier, and safer to winch it in. Now I guess I have a lot to consider, since in order to even use the expensive winch, I’ll have to first securely mount it, then purchase and fit both cars with tow hooks. I guess I should probably do a dry run and try to drive it up when I have a chance. Probably be a bit scary the first time, I’d imagine!
 

black 10th vert

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One other thing I’ve considered, but haven’t tested yet, was what the tongue weight will be with the heavy front end of the Terminator. The vehicle I’ll be using to tow is an ‘04 V8 4Runner, which has heavy lift springs already, and has a brake controller. I deliberately bought an all aluminum trailer to keep overall weight down, but I was considering that it may be better to back the Terminator on the trailer to better control the tongue weight. Anyone have thoughts on this. At this point, I haven’t even tried it in standard orientation, it’s just something that I found myself pondering when planning this trip. Of course backing it on the trailer would probably be even more nerve wracking than driving it on!
 

oldstv

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Two things to consider about pulling up backwards, aerodynamics "gas mileage" and wind on your rear window. The flaps around the window will be getting hit pretty hard.
 

Fastback

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You need the tongue weight. To little you will have a dancing trailer. Wobbles, when you have the option, little more weight on the front to control sway. And most vehicles are good on power now, it's the brakes and weight of your 4Runner. Relative short wheel base with not a lot of weight, when you brake it will push you a little. Even with trailer brakes, they do not magically let you tow anything. But you are smart to get some info before jumping right in.
 

black 10th vert

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Two things to consider about pulling up backwards, aerodynamics "gas mileage" and wind on your rear window. The flaps around the window will be getting hit pretty hard.
In the case of aerodynamics, it would be pretty much the same either way, as the trailer has a large aluminum shield on the front. I was happy about the shield for rock chips too since a lot of sand and rocks can get kicked up on a highway trip! Good point about those back window flaps though. I hadn’t really considered that. The wind would probably still be bad for that area since it would likely swirl down after the shield, similar to a pickup truck bed.
 

black 10th vert

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You need the tongue weight. To little you will have a dancing trailer. Wobbles, when you have the option, little more weight on the front to control sway. And most vehicles are good on power now, it's the brakes and weight of your 4Runner. Relative short wheel base with not a lot of weight, when you brake it will push you a little. Even with trailer brakes, they do not magically let you tow anything. But you are smart to get some info before jumping right in.
Yeah, I know you need tongue weight, I was just worried about having too much of it, but once again, it’s all mental gymnastics until I actually try. On the 4Runner forum, I read a lot about trailering with it, and many have added trailer hitch sway bars, as well as air bags to the rear coils when towing really heavy camper trailers and such. Your point about the tow vehicle being too light is definitely something I had considered when searching for trailers, which is why I wanted to keep that part as light as possible. Because I tow a boat and other trailers, that was also why I chose a 4Runner that had the V8 and factory tow package back when I bought it. I do realize that it isn’t ideal for towing a car, but I mainly need to just get my cars from MA to GA, and felt taking them myself would be more economical than a transport company, plus I wouldn’t worry so much with someone else having the car. Still not looking forward to the long drive though!
 

Fastback

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Yeah, I know you need tongue weight, I was just worried about having too much of it, but once again, it’s all mental gymnastics until I actually try. On the 4Runner forum, I read a lot about trailering with it, and many have added trailer hitch sway bars, as well as air bags to the rear coils when towing really heavy camper trailers and such. Your point about the tow vehicle being too light is definitely something I had considered when searching for trailers, which is why I wanted to keep that part as light as possible. Because I tow a boat and other trailers, that was also why I chose a 4Runner that had the V8 and factory tow package back when I bought it. I do realize that it isn’t ideal for towing a car, but I mainly need to just get my cars from MA to GA, and felt taking them myself would be more economical than a transport company, plus I wouldn’t worry so much with someone else having the car. Still not looking forward to the long drive though!

I have the lift bars on my 20ft enclosed, use them when moving heavy items. 68' Buick Skylark, 4500# or so. 76' BMW 2002 no lift bars on the front. Tow is a 2001 2500hd Chevy with the 8.1 vortec. Or a 89' quad cab 3500 with a 20 foot dove tail attached to the extended frame. Essentially a car hauler. Damn thing is 31 feet total. I still feel a little push when loaded down on the 2500hd. Just throwing that out there. To much weight on rear you get a pendulum going on. Weight farther back moves the pendulum farther away from the hitch, which controls the trailer. Don't want to see a wrecked cobra post!
 

Albatross

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I've always had my eye on that ZL1 tow hook. Never bought one for the reason previously mentioned, no instructions to look at on the website. black 10th vert, if you go that route will you pleas snap some photos of the install and report back? Curious to see how it would turn out.
 

P49Y-CY

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so would the best option for a low-slung car like a cobra be a tilting trailer? i have seen some that are "manually" operated (no expensive hydraulics) but also have a winch provision on the tilting deck. seems like that way you'd really be able to get a good angle for the winch cable to the k-member.

good info in this thread - i am a neophyte on the subject but someday would like to be able to trailer my cobra
 

4sdvenom

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Just an FYI but if you do put a tow hook on the front somewhere and it’s offset, I would suggest offsetting the winch as well when you mount it. The closer the car gets to the winch the more of an angle it will be pulling at if the winch is centered and hook offset.
Offset them both to the same side and the winch will pull straight the whole time and will not be trying to pull the tow hook to the center of the trailer.

Ken
 

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