Ceramic Coat Questions

tomshep

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I am looking at getting some Xpel done and the installer also does ceramic coating. I've been reading about it for a few years and really like the shine it creates.

He quoted me $1,500 for paint correction and installation on the entire vehicle including plastic and rim faces. No calipers or removing rims. This is with what he calls "Ceramic Pro 5 year warranty silver package. 1 Layer 9H. 1 Layer Top Coat."

Is this some specific brand he is quoting?

How is this price?

One of the things I don't understand is how a rock chip is handled. If it happens and it chips through the ceramic and into the paint, how is this touched up? I know how the paint is fixed. But how is the chip in the ceramic handled?

Any knowledge, comments, etc. you can share are greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Tom
 

Norton

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It sounds like his quote is for correction and installation of Ceramic Pro's 9H and Pro Top Coat. If you haven't researched coatings, you really should - they're not all created equally. (It's been a while since I did and I went with Gtechniq CSU + EXO but, IIRC, Ceramic Pro is also a reputable product.) As with your PPF quote, this one's comparable to what mine cost me. FWIW, I recommend having your wheel barrels, calipers, and door jambs coated too - it makes cleaning/detailing easier.)

In my experience, touching-up chips is exactly the same as it was before the coating was applied. The coating is microscopically thin so, if they're hyping its "protection" of the paint, don't buy it regarding rocks/scratches. I suppose you could ask your detailer to apply a little coating over your touch-up paint, but we all know those spots are never as smooth as they started out. The coating's big benefit is contaminants have a lot harder time bonding to the surface, making for much easier cleaning/detailing. (I found out the hard way, even "baked on" tree sap washes off effortlessly, after my black Shelby was staged downwind from a tree weeping sap into the breeze on a sunny summer day. I didn't figure out what was happening until hours had passed. I we very pleasantly surprised when a simple/normal wash removed all traces of the "baked-on" sap. IMO, the coating paid for itself right there!)
 

GDDYUP

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"Ceramic Pro" is the specific brand of coating the shop is quoting you a price for. However, if you're also looking at Xpel, that's something different. Xpel is a covering that protects the finish from the rock chips. It's like a plastic type covering that the installer puts over certain parts of the car, typically the front end depending on what you want done. The Xpel sheet protects from rock chips, the ceramic coating does not really. The ceramic coat helps protect the finish and gives the car an "always waxed" type look. Ceramic basically bonds to the paint to protect it, Xpel is laid over the paint to protect it. 2 different processes that do 2 different things.

If you have Xpel done, it's done over the factory finish. Xpel won't stick to ceramic so you can't ceramic coat areas where you plan to have Xpel put on. I believe you can ceramic coat over the Xpel sheet, but don't quote me on that.

$1500 sounds like a typical quote for "Silver" 2 layer Ceramic Pro coating on the entire car. I have the Silver package on my 13 and I really like it. Looks awesome and is easy to clean and care for so far. I never have to wax the car again most likely. As long as it's taken care of, ceramic will look fantastic for a long time. But it won't really protect against rock chips. You wan't Xpel for that.
 

specracer

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The price sounds about right. Ceramic pro is one of the leaders in the industry.

As mentioned, ceramic coatings do not help prevent chips in any way. Think of ceramic coating as a longer term wax. It will also eventually wear off. With a limited use vehicle, will last a long time. I have Opticoat on 3 vehicles, will be trying Ceramic Pro on another in a week or so. And yes, it is not recommended to put PPF over a ceramic coated surface.
 

Kel

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I agree with the others. I had mine paint corrected and CQuartz Professional applied on all the painted surfaces as well as the Alcoas/Brembos - $1500 (this was 7/17 @ around 3k miles). Looks better than brand new. You'll never have to wax again and can just use silica spray sealant "Reload" and/or EchoH2o water less detailer as needed. Best of luck and pics when done!
 

96gt02

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Price sounds correct and I highly recommend it, If you want actually rock protection you need PPF like Xpel, on my GT500 I did the lifetime ceramic pro (5 coats) and had the hood Xpel plus the ceramic as it was replaced from corrosion, on my GT350 I did the whole front end PPF so bumper, hood, fenders, mirrors, lights plus the ceramic on top which is fantastic, I would PPF the whole car if it wasnt so expensive as it really looks great with the ceramic and ppf
 

1Kona_Venom

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I agree with the others. I had mine paint corrected and CQuartz Professional applied on all the painted surfaces as well as the Alcoas/Brembos - $1500 (this was 7/17 @ around 3k miles). Looks better than brand new. You'll never have to wax again and can just use silica spray sealant "Reload" and/or EchoH2o water less detailer as needed. Best of luck and pics when done!
So, question?
If you'll never have to wax again, how does one go back over and remove swirl marks in the ceramic coat?

You have a light colored car which won't be noticeable after a few washes etc.

For people with dark colored cars, mico marring is thing, and it will happen.

Drove me nuts on my Kona Blue. And what people don't think of is that a removal and reapplication for those spots will be needed. $$$ again

Sent from my SM-G975U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

96gt02

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You can buff (and even sand) professional ceramic coatings, the coating is more like a clear coat in that aspect, however its harder to swirl then regular clear coat but the process would be similar for removing swirls in ceramic. Technically the only way remove a professional coating, Gtechniq, CeramicPro etc. is to sand them off.... while most DIY coatings can be removed with aggressive compound and buffing.
 

1Kona_Venom

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Got it.


You can buff (and even sand) professional ceramic coatings, the coating is more like a clear coat in that aspect, however its harder to swirl then regular clear coat but the process would be similar for removing swirls in ceramic. Technically the only way remove a professional coating, Gtechniq, CeramicPro etc. is to sand them off.... while most DIY coatings can be removed with aggressive compound and buffing.

Sent from my SM-G975U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 
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Kel

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So, question?
If you'll never have to wax again, how does one go back over and remove swirl marks in the ceramic coat?

You have a light colored car which won't be noticeable after a few washes etc.

For people with dark colored cars, mico marring is thing, and it will happen.

Drove me nuts on my Kona Blue. And what people don't think of is that a removal and reapplication for those spots will be needed. $$$ again

Sent from my SM-G975U using the svtperformance.com mobile app


To be honest, I've never washed the car (nor have I used the windshield wipers!). It came straight off the showroom floor and I've only used detailer, Reload, waterless Echo, etc. Of course being careful not to drag dirt across, frequently changing rags, etc. I'm too lazy and busy to clean the car frequently and with the limited time I drive the car, it's only when the sun's out/no chance of precip. Definition of a Garage Queen, lol. Probably not the answer you're looking for, someone more knowledgable than I will jump in and comment on swirl marks, etc.
 

fearthesnake

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Yall are making me feel like crap and the way I treat my paint,lol...

Never had any of this type work done and still use an old orbital buffer with meguiars/3M products. Recently used Hydro Slick ceramic coating as a sealant and looks/repels great.

Would be interesting in a detail like being mentioned but know no one in upstate S.C. or someone I would trust.
 

Jam421

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I've been reading about this on the forum as well. My car is due to go in for PRO CERAMIC coating next week. The stripping of the car plus scratch/paint correction cost $300. Applying the Pro Ceramic was $600. I added my TRW wheels for total of $1100. The car looks really good right now so I can't wait to see if there's any difference !
 

rotor_powerd

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I had my car coated last year, it made such a difference that I had my C63 done too. I'm not as anal as I used to be about keeping things clean, but now they look brand new after a simple hand wash and stay looking that way for much longer in between.
 

96gt02

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I didnt honestly realize how awesome the ceramic coating was until I had a clean a new car (my 350 at the time) which wasnt coated yet and how much longer everything took and how much harder it was to clean well.
 

tomshep

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I appreciate all of the responses.

Very promising to hear and the price sounds "normal".

My car sees weekends in good weather and maybe a couple times a year i get caught in the rain. I use Chemical Guys P40 Detailer for cleaning and don't wash with water. What is used to clean once ceramic coated? Is it going to be expensive to maintain?

Tom
 

CobraBob

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I didnt honestly realize how awesome the ceramic coating was until I had a clean a new car (my 350 at the time) which wasnt coated yet and how much longer everything took and how much harder it was to clean well.
A friend of mine (detailer) ceramic coated my G70 about a week after I took delivery. I was really, really impressed with the result. A year and a half later and it looks as good (shiny, beads water like crazy, silky smooth) today as it did then. I always get comments from people who are amazed at the shine, and then even more amazed when I tell them that it was coated 18 months ago. Definitely worth the money to ceramic coat.
 

Norton

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What is used to clean once ceramic coated? Is it going to be expensive to maintain?
Most (all?) ceramic brands include maintenance products that vary in cost. In my experience, I spend less to maintain my vechicles now that they're coated. In general, you should be fine using a good quality shampoo to wash along with a compatible detail spray and/or ceramic boost to wipe down. I recommend consulting with your intaller to confirm what's recommended/required for the product(s) being applied to your car.
 

tomshep

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Good point on the product expense I use now vs. after ceramic. My car gets dry wash. It hasn't had water on it in over a year due to the garage queen status it has. Probably washed with water a dozen times at most.

Tom
 

Jam421

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Here's some pics of my car after Ceramic Pro coating. As mentioned cost was $900 + $200 for the wheels. The first 2 pics are my car detailed in August photographed in an open airfield on a sunny late morning. The last pic is my car in my driveway in early afternoon also on a sunny day as it arrived back from Ceramic Pro coating.
 

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