Check your voltages!!

HKusp

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Messages
486
Location
Hampton, Maryland
Sorry for the long explanation/ story but I feel it will illustrate my point better if I get a little long winded on this one.

I have been chasing a few issues with my 2009 GT500 for the last couple of months. I was having stalling issues right after filling up with gas. Pulled codes and it indicated purge valve solenoid. I bought a new one and a new charcoal canister purge valve too. That handled that.

I also had a bigger issue with the car being down on power the last several months. The car started running lean and nosing over at WOT. My A/F, which had been real nice and fat below 11.5 since replacing my failed Kenne Bell BAP with dual Lethal units, was going above 14 at WOT and DEFINITELY down on power. At first I thought maybe it was due to heat soak like last summer. But I had added a VMP triple pass HE without fans, then mid summer added the twin Spal fans with VMP's wiring harness. I also replaced the stock fuel pumps with a set I bought off of this site from a user that were supposedly "new in the box" but when I opened them, you could tell they had been in the tank and were used.. the sending unit is bad as well... but I digress...There was definitely still SOMETHING wrong and the car was down at least 100hp and running lean.

I was at a car show last weekend and a buddy with a Big Block '66 El Camino was there and we left together. He had an electric fan issue and his car overheated so he pulled over. I took him to the auto parts store in my car to get a new box of fuses so he could make it home. I began describing what was going on with my car and he said he had a friend with a built GT350 that was supposed to be 9 second capable but it was breaking up up at high RPM and down on power. Someone told him to unhook his stock radio and it solved his problem. His car ran like it should. That got me to thinking, my issues got worse since I installed those Spal fans. Hmmmmm....

Then later that night I was participating in the thread on here about the dual pass vs. tried pass HE, and was looking at YouTube video reviews of the VMP triple pass with dual fans. The guy I was watching had a '13 GT500 and he said his car was down on power and was breaking up above 4500rpm since the install so he unplugged the fans and it solved his problem .

A light went off at that point. I texted my mechanic and told him the 2 stories. I said that I thought maybe my alternator was weak and these fans were too much and we needed to get a higher output alternator like a 200 amp. He reminded me that we had left the key on overnight while working on the car back in the spring and ever since then if we left the key forward and the car not running for over 30-45mins or so, we had to use the jump box to start the car. We knew it had a weak battery and I was going to replace it when we got the other issues straightened out. He said that we should try putting a new battery in the car before spending $500 on an alternator and I agreed.. Well, I got a Napa Gold 36 month with 725 cranking amps and put in on Tuesday morning, the old battery tested bad, had less than 520 cranking amps whe we took it out, so it probably had a dead cell. The alternator tested with a multimeter saying it was putting out 14.6 amps at idle. I took the car out and WOW!! Better than ever before. I have put about 150 miles on it this week since changing the battery and this car is super fun to drive again. My A/F at WOT is nice and fat, the back end of the car will come out with a tap of the throttle, and it pulls like a freight train.

Moral of the story- when goofy things are going on, check your voltage. It could be something simple causing those sleepless nights.

I feel dumb but if this helps someone else I am glad my stupidity will pay off for whoever that is. :D
 

tktlwyr

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2009
Messages
344
Location
Pembroke PInes, FL
That’s awesome! I have had an intermittent drivability problem with my 110,000 mile ‘10 that no one has been able to figure out for 4.5 years. Logs and tune have been reviewed, engine harness changed, the list is long. It has been looked at by all the big names you’d expect. While your driving the problem would appear and disappear at random. It now manifests itself more frequently. The car just came out of a shop after 10 months!

Last weekend I had a friend come over with his 20 year old “tuner” son and it appears we found the problem. The MAF counts are occasionally dropping to zero, causing the car the run poorly and shut off. That should narrow it down the MAF sensor, PCM or a possible ground issue. Waiting for the new MAF sensor to arrive on Monday. Fingers crossed!
 

HKusp

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2019
Messages
486
Location
Hampton, Maryland
I didn't even mention the MAF issue that was there with the evap codes. My mass air numbers weren't matching my pedal numbers. We used some MAF cleaner and reinstalled it,, but it still had wonky readings so I ordered a new one and the car was better on idle and smoother on acceleration. Another mechanic mentioned that the re-usable filters that you oil can foul the mass air sensor and he recommended that i get rid of mine and go to a paper version. Food for thought.
 

PM-Performance

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2015
Messages
1,224
Location
Blandon, PA
Glad you figured it all out. Voltage can cause some really weird things. Be glad it didn’t pop your motor. I’ve seen that happen.

the oiled filters and maf thing has been a thing forever. Deff don’t over oil them. I’ve seen some shit with them too.
All that hard work sounds like it paid off. Enjoy the car !
 

XP900

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2020
Messages
339
Location
NY
Sorry for the long explanation/ story but I feel it will illustrate my point better if I get a little long winded on this one.

I have been chasing a few issues with my 2009 GT500 for the last couple of months. I was having stalling issues right after filling up with gas. Pulled codes and it indicated purge valve solenoid. I bought a new one and a new charcoal canister purge valve too. That handled that.

My 2010 has developed a sudden cause of stalling...not the usual idle rpm fluctuations issues that come up at times.
It seems like a vaccuum leak and it is not sometihing obvious....swapped out PVC (seemed bad to me too based on the new one ) and the MAF with no real changes.

Ordered the two rear vavle/solenoids for the emissions.....

HOW many miles were on your 2009 when you changed the purge and vent valves? I have 42K on my 2010 and slowly issues pop up...aging probably.
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top