Which Alternator and WHY!

Guys,
There are a lot of alternator posts out there as well as a lot of different choices (Nations, Mechman, J2Fab, Pa Performance, Kenneth Miley Jr., stock rebuild, autozone, ebay special, etc.). Please answer all these questions to better help me and others know the options available.

1. What alternator did you choose, price, and why.
2. At what point do you need a 130, 185, 200, or 240A?
3. Did you do the big 3? What kit did you use and was there mods needed (splicing, etc.)
4. Did it fit or did you need to grind, and if so how hard was it?
5. Did it come with a pulley at all, have options for 2lb or 4lb lowers?
6. If you replaced the pulley what brand, was it easy, and did it line up?
7. How many miles does it have on it so far?
8. Does your battery light flicker or did the fix disable the light all together?
9. Other issues I forgot or statements as you see fit.

I am personally most concerned about it lasting, battery light flicker, alignment, and pulley swap.

Thanks, I know this is a lot but it seems like so many options out there and so many different opinions.

on my mach, not a terminator but

1) j2fab, had sound reviews a the time, helping a small veteran owned business
2) went to a 200 due to multi pump fuel system and decent size stereo
3) j2fab. It all bolted up
9) doesnt charge for shit at idle once up to temp with lights and ac on... went smaller alternator pulley, even went OD crank pulley, voltage still slowly falls at idle. Im tempted to put it for sale with a buyer beware vs arguing with the guy any more

DSG2003Mach1 said:

on my mach, not a terminator but

1) j2fab, had sound reviews a the time, helping a small veteran owned business
2) went to a 200 due to multi pump fuel system and decent size stereo
3) j2fab. It all bolted up
9) doesnt charge for shit at idle once up to temp with lights and ac on... went smaller alternator pulley, even went OD crank pulley, voltage still slowly falls at idle. Im tempted to put it for sale with a buyer beware vs arguing with the guy any more

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SO I take it that's not a recommendation

There's good and for all of them. My j2fab is doing fine. But this is one of those topics that's been covered quite a bit. You just have to search for it.

01yellercobra said:

There's good and for all of them. My j2fab is doing fine. But this is one of those topics that's been covered quite a bit. You just have to search for it.

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I absolutely LOVE this site and use it as reference often but information in a forum can be unorganized. My original post stated that there is a lot of info on this subject. However I wanted my own post about it as that information seems to be all over the place.

Please only post if you are going to actually answer the questions asked. Yes plenty of people have working J2s. If you wish to contribute then please edit and add actual useful information.

One of the main issues with all those other posts is that the chain is full of half answers and incomplete information. My purpose is to have 1 place where each person names their Alternator and follow on questions in a single post. This will help me, as well as others, have an easier time making that decision.

I get you have been around a minute and I do not intend to be rude but please respect the posts intent or move along.
Thanks

I'm not sure why people have so many issues with alternators.

My stocker went out around 220k so I went to autovalue and bought whatever generic replacement brand they had for an 03/04 cobra and went on my way.

1. What alternator did you choose, price, and why.
Mechman, got a good price a used never installed unit here.
2. At what point do you need a 130, 185, 200, or 240A?
My charging needs are stock, got a 185 I believe.
3. Did you do the big 3? What kit did you use and was there mods needed (splicing, etc.)
Made my own, make sure you get Oxygen Free Copper (OFC) and not Copper Coated Aluminum (CCA). You need to remove old charging and ground cables ane replace them with the upgraded ones, you should research this more before attemptimg.
4. Did it fit or did you need to grind, and if so how hard was it?
Fit fine, takes some origami every time but it goes in from the bottom.
5. Did it come with a pulley at all, have options for 2lb or 4lb lowers?
4lb lower, uses specific Mechman pulley for 4lb lower.
6. If you replaced the pulley what brand, was it easy, and did it line up?

7. How many miles does it have on it so far?
10k or so.
8. Does your battery light flicker or did the fix disable the light all together?
Not when everything is running right, see 9 below.
9. Other issues I forgot or statements as you see fit.
Customer support is top notch, only charging issues I have had with the Mechman were never related to the Alt.
Sense wire for the ECU with a bad connection caused a constant battery light. A loose connection at the Alt output lug caused an intermittent battery light and would stop charging.
In both cases Mechman helped on the phone, via email and inspected my Alt when I shipped it to them. Total bill for alt service was like $65 iirc with return shipping. All of this was provided to the person who bought a "used" Alt.

*Edit*
I toasted 1 stock, 1 remam stock and 1 new old stock Cobra alternators before the Mechman. Dont know why, I just did, always came back to toasted diodes. Also make sure you inspect all your power and ground lines, my Cobra wiring was a hack job when I bought it.

1. What alternator did you choose, price, and why.
Bought a Mechman in early 2016 for $450. J2 and KMJ didn't exist back then so the top options were Mechman and Nations. I chose Mechman due to their reputation and lower price.
2. At what point do you need a 130, 185, 200, or 240A?
Mine is 170A and it holds up OK with dual GT fuel pumps, heat exchanger fans and a sound system.
3. Did you do the big 3? What kit did you use and was there mods needed (splicing, etc.)
Yes, I made my own with 0 gauge OFC cable. I have an Optima Red Top battery so I used the side terminals to connect + and - direct to the alternator.
4. Did it fit or did you need to grind, and if so how hard was it?
It bolted up with no mods.
5. Did it come with a pulley at all, have options for 2lb or 4lb lowers?
There were no pulley options at the time but I believe that has changed. I ran it for a few years with a 4lb lower with no issues.
6. If you replaced the pulley what brand, was it easy, and did it line up?
7. How many miles does it have on it so far?
About 6000 miles.
8. Does your battery light flicker or did the fix disable the light all together?
I had the high RPM flickering alternator light. The Mechman supplied "fix" stopped the flickering light but I've read it disables the alt light altogether. I'm not really concerned about it because I have a voltage gauge.
9. Other issues I forgot or statements as you see fit.
Battery voltage bounces around quite a bit from 13.8 to 14.8 depending on load and temperature but well within reasonable limits. I also have had issues with the adapter harness Mechman supplied losing electrical contact causing the alt to stop charging. I took the female end of the harness apart and modified it slightly so it would make better contact.

KevinsVertTerminator said:

Guys,
There are a lot of alternator posts out there as well as a lot of different choices (Nations, Mechman, J2Fab, Pa Performance, Kenneth Miley Jr., stock rebuild, autozone, ebay special, etc.). Please answer all these questions to better help me and others know the options available.

1. What alternator did you choose, price, and why. Stock replacement from autozone. I don’t remember price. Not much. That’s what the tuner said would work fine with my set up (2.3l VMP blower w 2.8” upper and no other stereo upgrades etc)
2. At what point do you need a 130, 185, 200, or 240A? No clue
3. Did you do the big 3? What kit did you use and was there mods needed (splicing, etc.). No
4. Did it fit or did you need to grind, and if so how hard was it? Fits like stock
5. Did it come with a pulley at all, have options for 2lb or 4lb lowers? Didn’t need to mess with any of it
6. If you replaced the pulley what brand, was it easy, and did it line up? Not needed
7. How many miles does it have on it so far? 10,000 or so in 3 years
8. Does your battery light flicker or did the fix disable the light all together? No
9. Other issues I forgot or statements as you see fit. Seems to work perfectly fine. Aeroforce shows voltage stays around 12.8-13 all the time

I am personally most concerned about it lasting, battery light flicker, alignment, and pulley swap.

Thanks, I know this is a lot but it seems like so many options out there and so many different opinions.

Click to expand...

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1. What alternator did you choose, price, and why.

Nation's

2. At what point do you need a 130, 185, 200, or 240A?

Not sure, I'm running a fore return fuel system.

3. Did you do the big 3? What kit did you use and was there mods needed (splicing, etc.)

Yes, Nations. Crimping, running bigger grounds.

4. Did it fit or did you need to grind, and if so how hard was it?

Fit like stock.

5. Did it come with a pulley at all, have options for 2lb or 4lb lowers?

Yes. Nation's said I could run a smaller lower without changing alternator pulley. They run a larger standard pulley. I believe mine is 2.9", but standard is now around 3.1".

6. If you replaced the pulley what brand, was it easy, and did it line up?

See above.

7. How many miles does it have on it so far?

It's a few years old, probably only 4k miles.

8. Does your battery light flicker or did the fix disable the light all together?

Periodically. But only at higher rpms. I monitor voltage on my aeroforce gauge. Never drops below 13.5 at wot to redline.

9. Other issues I forgot or statements as you see fit.

I initially had to install a washer between the alternator bracket and alternator. Alignment was off and belt was walking. I believe nation's might have added a washer now?

Other than that, I recommend nations alternator all the time. The external regulator is awesome. You can adjust voltage. While cruising or at idle my voltage is 14.3-14.7 range with every accessory on.

I have a Nations thread. I'll look for it and update my post.

Below is my review.

https://www.svtperformance.com/index.php?threads/1118055/

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1. What alternator did you choose, price, and why.
I went with a cheapie from DB electrical. It was like $60. I just needed something to fire up the car after a rebuild.
2. At what point do you need a 130, 185, 200, or 240A?
I have stuck with the factor 10 amp. Stock Stereo and dual 465 pumps.
3. Did you do the big 3? What kit did you use and was there mods needed (splicing, etc.)
I did the equivalent to the Big 3. Made my own kit.
4. Did it fit or did you need to grind, and if so how hard was it?
It fit perfectly.
5. Did it come with a pulley at all, have options for 2lb or 4lb lowers?
Came with a stock size pulley
6. If you replaced the pulley what brand, was it easy, and did it line up?
DB electrical brand
7. How many miles does it have on it so far?
About 1000
8. Does your battery light flicker or did the fix disable the light all together?
Battery light does not flicker.
9. Other issues I forgot or statements as you see fit.
No issues. Holds around 13.8-14 volts idle cold, and around 13.5 volts idle warm. At WOT it holds low to mid 13's volts. Pretty happy with it. When it goes I'll probable step up to one with an adjustable regulator.

KevinsVertTerminator said:

Guys,
There are a lot of alternator posts out there as well as a lot of different choices (Nations, Mechman, J2Fab, Pa Performance, Kenneth Miley Jr., stock rebuild, autozone, ebay special, etc.). Please answer all these questions to better help me and others know the options available.

1. What alternator did you choose, price, and why.
2. At what point do you need a 130, 185, 200, or 240A?
3. Did you do the big 3? What kit did you use and was there mods needed (splicing, etc.)
4. Did it fit or did you need to grind, and if so how hard was it?
5. Did it come with a pulley at all, have options for 2lb or 4lb lowers?
6. If you replaced the pulley what brand, was it easy, and did it line up?
7. How many miles does it have on it so far?
8. Does your battery light flicker or did the fix disable the light all together?
9. Other issues I forgot or statements as you see fit.

I am personally most concerned about it lasting, battery light flicker, alignment, and pulley swap.

Thanks, I know this is a lot but it seems like so many options out there and so many different opinions.

Click to expand...

Sure...I’ll play. This topic is starting to become like oil threads. Ok, here we go:

1. Original KM. (Was told bad batch of bearings, sent it back for warranty and USPS lost it, so couldn’t get a warranty replacement) Went bad in 20 minutes. Got a J2 185amp.
2. Depends on how many amps your pulling. Figure it out and get the next step up.
3. Made my own.
4. Fit perfectly.
5. Came with pulley, stock lower.
6. N/a
7. 8k miles on it. No problem.
8. No flicker. Car doesn’t go below 14.0 volts, A/C is always on (killer chiller) and I live in florida, so it’s always hot.


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