Build thread: Project "Exterminator". Twin turbo 2018 F150 RCSB 5.0 A10 4x4.

Welcome to my build thread, code named project "Exterminator"! I will be detailing the install of an On3 Performance 60mm twin turbo kit and various other mods on my 2018 F150 regular cab, short box, 5.0L Coyote, A10, 4x4. My goal is to have a street friendly sleeper that can run low 10 second ETs on street tires and pump gas.

You'll have to bear with me on this build as I've never installed a turbo kit before, heck I've never even owned an F150...lol! I'll be relying on the basic instructions supplied with the kit, internet research and my past experience building my Terminator.

Anyways, here's the patient. After a long search, I purchased the truck from a dealer in Edmonton, AB with 77000km on it. It was definitely a work truck or someone's daily because the interior is filthy, the paint is far from perfect I found tons of dried mud everywhere as I tore the truck down.




Now on to the tear down pics. I will be installing a Circle D torque converter, billet oil pump gears and MMR timing components so basically EVERYTHING has to come out of the truck! By the time I was done tearing it down the only thing holding the engine in the truck was gravity so I wished I had just pulled it too. Would have saved a lot of grief getting the stock manifolds off and turbo manifolds on, etc.

Found a big mouse nest under the intake...lol!

Here's the extent of the tear down: intake, cam covers, timing cover, oil pan, belt drive, harmonic balancer, etc all gone! Pro tip: Don't install the turbo manifolds first because then you can't remove the passenger side cam cover!



Another pro tip: this is the puller you want to remove 2018+ harmonic balancers. Had it off in 5 minutes!



Radiator and condenser were nearly plugged so out they came too.


All cleaned up!


Back in....


On3 supplies a new a/c line because the factory one hits the passenger side manifold.

A/C hose touching the manifold:



I was surprised my R134a gauge set wouldn't fit the F150. Some quick research yielded the fact these new vehicles come with a new refridgerant called R1234yf and you need new fittings to work with it. Amazon to the rescue!





Here is the new line installed.



Boundary billet oil pump gears and crank sprocket.



The turbo manifolds appear to be quite beefy and well made!



The inlet ports have a very square "step" at the joint/weld which I would imagine is terrible for flow so I spent a couple hours with the carbide bit to smooth them out.

Next up, Mustang GT intake manifold! The F150 manifold is tuned for low end torque and the GT manifold is great for top end hp with little to no loss down low so it's a natural fit. You can see in the pic how much longer/taller the runners are on the F150 manifold on the right.



It's pretty much a direct swap except the GT manifold doesn't have provisions for a MAP sensor.



Youtube to the rescue! I smoothed out a spot on the back of the GT manifold and installed the F150 MAP sensor. I have to confess though that drilling holes in expensive brand new parts I literally just pulled out of the box makes me sick to my stomach...lol!


I sealed the sensor to the manifold with RTV because the plastic intake is not thick enough to seal with the factory O-ring.


Pulling the pan off the 10R80 to change the filter and add a drain:


Drilling holes in expensive parts again, haha!

And since I was on such a roll, I drilled a hole in the diff too!


Pro tip #3: 2018+ Coyote F150's have a windage tray built into the pan! All the research I had done said they didn't have one. The oil pump pickup is plastic and also built into the pan so the pan must be removed to get the oil pump out!





More holes FFS! You need a 3/8" NPT drill and tap to install the -10 AN oil return fittings. I sealed them in with JB weld. On3's instructions say to put them on the sides of the pan near the sump but there's a lot of stuff in the way back there. I made the decision to install them up front where access to them is fairly uncluttered. Hopefully it works out!


To re-install the pan you need to lift and suspend the engine off of it's mounts to make some room.

I used the bridge jack and some 2x4's to lift the rear of the engine.

Oil pan and flex plate installed!




I'm stuck waiting on timing parts and head cooling mod from MMR so that's all I have until next week.

Nice. Will be following.

Me too.

Very nice, I’ll be following

Awesome sub’d


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

Awesome build! Looks like a pressure washer is your best friend to start. Will be a wild truck!


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

in, good luck

Gonna be sick.

There's a number of thse online. Even blower will run 10s easy. Let us know how long the trans lasts.

But why did you not power wash the engine and underside first? lol

A lot of work done already! I’ve been waiting on this thread since you put up the teaser shot in the trucks thread. Good luck with the build, look forward to the results.

nice work!

note to self - just pull the damned engine

Nice work @olympic thank you for not doing the Youtube video version, I know this way is a little more time consuming but these are straight to the point and very helpful!

Awesome. Coworker just bought an RCSB this week, brand new, planning a modern lightning build. Will be following.

Subbed awesome build.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Been wanting to do the same build except a whipple on top.

Excited to follow yours!