Build thread: Project "Exterminator". Twin turbo 2018 F150 RCSB 5.0 A10 4x4.

olympic

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There's a number of thse online. Even blower will run 10s easy. Let us know how long the trans lasts.

But why did you not power wash the engine and underside first? lol

Yeah lesson learned...lol! I'm going to clean the hidden areas like the trans tunnel by hand and then get the rest with the pressure washer once I can drive it off the hoist.
 

Matts00GT

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Hopefully you’ve joined the FB group. I shared my edelbrock 2650’d 2019 rcsb fx4 in the truck thread.

Lots of horror stories on on3s fitment so hopefully you’re prepared for some modifying.

Are you using Lund to tune it? OZ?
 

Matts00GT

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There's a number of thse online. Even blower will run 10s easy. Let us know how long the trans lasts.

But why did you not power wash the engine and underside first? lol

Fastest is 8.64 @ 157. Only one other 8.x that i know of but lots of ETs in the 9s.

A new CCSB build just dyno’d just under 1400 rwhp and they’re about to crank the boost up even higher.
 

olympic

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Hopefully you’ve joined the FB group. I shared my edelbrock 2650’d 2019 rcsb fx4 in the truck thread.

Lots of horror stories on on3s fitment so hopefully you’re prepared for some modifying.

Are you using Lund to tune it? OZ?

Not looking forward to fitment issues! Finding someone around here to cut/weld tubing will be tough. A Whipple would have definitely been easier and less headaches but I already have a Whipple Cobra so I wanted to do something different with this build.

I haven't picked a tuner yet. There is exactly one tuning shop in my province but they are well regarded so I will likely approach them first for tuning.
 

Matts00GT

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Not looking forward to fitment issues! Finding someone around here to cut/weld tubing will be tough. A Whipple would have definitely been easier and less headaches but I already have a Whipple Cobra so I wanted to do something different with this build.

I haven't picked a tuner yet. There is exactly one tuning shop in my province but they are well regarded so I will likely approach them first for tuning.

Might just be the 15-17 kits that had issues. Pretty sure you have to clock the alternator as it’ll be right next to the manifold but may not be an issue on 18+.

Hopefully your local shop knows Coyotes. Lund tunes the fastest coyote f-150s.

Also, didn’t see you mention upgrades to your fuel system? We run out around 700whp.

Most people go with JDs twin pump return less system but FORE just came out with a very nice system that can run triple pumps as well.
 

olympic

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Might just be the 15-17 kits that had issues. Pretty sure you have to clock the alternator as it’ll be right next to the manifold but may not be an issue on 18+.

Hopefully your local shop knows Coyotes. Lund tunes the fastest coyote f-150s.

Also, didn’t see you mention upgrades to your fuel system? We run out around 700whp.

Most people go with JDs twin pump return less system but FORE just came out with a very nice system that can run triple pumps as well.

All of the hot/cold tubing looks really nice but no way to tell fitment till I get to that point. The 18+ kits have a lot of updates they learned from the older kits so I'm crossing my fingers there wont be major issues.

I'll be running pump gas and methanol injection so I feel a hands-on local tuner would be preferable. But if the local shop can't do it I'll definitely consider Lund.

As far as the fuel system, I bought On3's 1000 whp return fuel system.
 

svtfocus2cobra

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How are you going to recharge the AC system with the 1234? Did you recover it all? You know it costs like $400-500 to recharge with 1234?
 

olympic

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How are you going to recharge the AC system with the 1234? Did you recover it all? You know it costs like $400-500 to recharge with 1234?

I bought two 8oz cans of Red Tek R1234yf at Canadian Tire for $40 each. I was surprised it was that easy because I hadn't even heard of this stuff until now.

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svtfocus2cobra

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I bought two 8oz cans of Red Tek R1234yf at Canadian Tire for $40 each. I was surprised it was that easy because I hadn't even heard of this stuff until now.

View attachment 1669559

Just know that you have to do it a very specific way and you have to make sure you evac the system since you cracked the system open. Most people who try to use those canisters end up in the shop wondering why it didn't work. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt though that you know how to recharge AC systems.
 

olympic

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Just know that you have to do it a very specific way and you have to make sure you evac the system since you cracked the system open. Most people who try to use those canisters end up in the shop wondering why it didn't work. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt though that you know how to recharge AC systems.

Yeah I've been servicing my own a/c for years and own a vacuum pump to evacuate the system and the proper a/c manifold and gauges for refilling. I'll have to find out if there are any differences in the refilling procedure with R1234 vs R134 but I'm not anticipating any difficulties.
 

svtfocus2cobra

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Yeah I've been servicing my own a/c for years and own a vacuum pump to evacuate the system and the proper a/c manifold and gauges for refilling. I'll have to find out if there are any differences in the refilling procedure with R1234 vs R134 but I'm not anticipating any difficulties.

It shouldn't be any different, just suck it in through the low side. We have both machines here and I probably did over 200 recharges this summer. You can run 134 in a 1234 system, but you want to stick with what is in there from the factory of course. I see a lot of people who try to use the canisters but don't know that they need to evac the system first so it rarely works for people who have never done it before. That is why I wanted to check, but you know.
 

olympic

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After a month of waiting for parts I'm making some progress again!

First up, MMR head cooling mod. Basically impossible to install without either the engine or trans out of the truck so now is the time to do it!

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Next up is upgraded timing components since I plan to spin this thing to 7500RPM. Here we have MMR billet timing guides w/ E85/Methanol resistant wear strips, billet primary chain tensioners, drivers side secondary tensioner bracket, billet steel secondary chain guides and new Cloyes timing chains.

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The MMR tensioner bracket flips the drivers side tensioner upside down so the tensioner is on the slack side of the chain where it should be.

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Everything installed along with a forged crank timing sprocket.
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Reische 170 degree thermostat (left) vs stock. The Reische does not have a jiggle valve so I drilled a 3/32" hole at the 12 o'clock position to help with air bleeding.

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GT manifold installed.

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olympic

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Circle D 3800 RPM stall converter.

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Merge pipe with flanges for dual 3" exhaust cut-outs. On3 also supplies the adapter to connect it to the stock exhaust system.

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Some installed shots. It took some time to get everything in and lined up properly but I didn't encounter any fitment issues.

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