Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread

Black Gold 380R · Nov 12, 2020

Skitzerman said:
Great idea with the hidden wiring. Just make sure to smooth out the blind transition holes before you weld it up, to avoid wire chafing. Where possible, rubber grommets should be used. You're making significant progress on a large undertaking. Many kudos for you.

Thanks Vince! As mentioned earlier I really appreciate feedback. I hear you on the chafing issue. I do plan on putting grommets where I can. I also plan on covering the wiring in electrical tape and then an expandable cloth type cable sheathing as well and then zip tying it all together.

Something similar to this.

01yellercobra · Nov 12, 2020

I used that sheathing for all the sensors I added to the Cobra. Its nice stuff. I sealed the ends with the heat shrink that has glue in it. Just make sure you have everything the way you want it before sealing it. Its a pain to remove.

Black Gold 380R · Nov 12, 2020

01yellercobra said:
I used that sheathing for all the sensors I added to the Cobra. Its nice stuff. I sealed the ends with the heat shrink that has glue in it. Just make sure you have everything the way you want it before sealing it. Its a pain to remove.

I hear you Bob. I think I'm going to end up building the front end twice. First to put it together and make sure all my wiring, brake lines, fuel lines and anything else all fits as intended. Then blow it apart, paint it and then put it back together LOL.

geoffmt · Nov 12, 2020

Black Gold 380R said:
And here is the work I did to the rear-end.

Rear-end as I received it from the powder coater. I went with hammer tone as my front suspension parts came in a hammer tone finish.
View attachment 1671490

DRIVER'S Side. I'm using -3AN fittings for my brake lines. Here I installed bulk head fittings on my brake tabs and oriented my factory brake line hose on my vent tube.
View attachment 1671491

PASSENGER Side.
View attachment 1671492

Here you can see I re-oriented my factory brake hose as the other way there was no way I could have bent brake line to fit. I also decided to remove the bulk head fitting on this side and run my brake hose directly to the fitting on the factory brake hose.
View attachment 1671493

Here you can see the passenger side worked as intended LOL.
View attachment 1671494

Here is a close up of the driver's side. You can see I placed a grommet in the tab to reduce brake line rub.
View attachment 1671495

I then installed the third member studs into the housing. Man, having air tools makes this much easier LOL.
View attachment 1671497

Here you can see where I finished off on the axle. You can also see how the brake line was ran and how close I was able to get it to the housing. I'm using Nickle/Copper brake line. This type of brake line is very easy to bend and work with. I recommend this type of line for those who ever want or need to do brake lines. Also, the -3AN fittings are really nice. With this set up you have a nut and a sleeve. So, you do NOT need to do a double flare. You do a single flare with a 37 degree angle tool. Then the sleeve works as the support/crush to hold the brake line in place. So, technically there are still two pressure points on the connection (tube and sleeve).
View attachment 1671498

I hope your powder coder had a jig for the rear end, sometimes those tend to bend or warp when coated

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Black Gold 380R · Nov 12, 2020

geoffmt said:
I hope your powder coder had a jig for the rear end, sometimes those tend to bend or warp when coated.

He did not. I helped him put it in the oven. He used a metal rod stuck all the way through the housing. He told me ha has powder coated rear ends before. He never said anything about someone complaining of warpage. And I know him very well. So, if he felt there was a possibility of damage I believe he would have warned me or said powder coat at my own risk.

I had the rear-end company utilize thicker axle tubing and cut them a little shorter than normal. My powder coater said he heated the oven up to 400 degrees. I did not notice any warpage. Also, my center section was flat to the housing surface and my spring perches sat flat on my leaf springs. Lastly, when I look through the axle it looks straight to me.

I think it's okay geoffmt, but I appreciate you mentioning it. I hadn't even thought about that possibility.

When looking at it from this angle (in this picture the housing was already powder coated):

I didn't take a straight on picture here, but I did look through it and it looks straight to me. So, I think it is fine.

Here you can see the spring perch mounted flat on the leaf spring and the other side was the same way. Even my brake line tabs didn't warp and they are very thin.

geoffmt · Nov 12, 2020

Having a rod through the center and capping the ends will keep it straight, that is the jig I poorly was describing.

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Black Gold 380R · Nov 17, 2020

Okay everyone. I was out yesterday, so here are my weekend updates.

I feel like I got a ton done this past weekend.

First off, on Saturday, I got my rear axles, rotors, brakes, Caltracs and wheels mounted this weekend. Man, it was an awesome feeling getting the rear wheels back on the car.

Got my inner axle seals in. Made sure everything had enough grease so nothing went in dry. Then I slid the axles on with the emergency brakes. Man, getting the retaining plate on was a bit of a challenge.... Torqued everything down to the specified 35ft lbs.

Was able to get my rotors on (passenger side). Had to adjust the emergency brake shoes a little, so the rotor would slide over them.

Here are my calipers and brake pads installed. (NOTE: I did not bend the cotter pin on purpose. Not ready to lock the pads in yet).

Here is the driver's side set up.

Got my Caltrac's initially set up. I know the car needs to be on the ground to get the proper pre-load set up.

(Picture "A") Passenger side rear end with everything in place. Got my brake lines in place and wheels mounted.

(Picture "B") Driver's side rear end with everything in place. (Question???? For those of you with a good eye, what is the problem between picture "A" and "B"???)

Here is the fitment side to side in the wheel well.

This picture shows the separation between the top of the tire and the QTR panel. Keep in mind the rear suspension is free hanging. Once the car is on the ground I should have 1/2 to 3/4 inch separation between the tire and QTR panel.

Black Gold 380R · Nov 17, 2020

While I was working on Saturday some goodies from Summit Racing showed up

…

I received my gas tank and my front brake system. Since I need to get my front rotors powder coated to match my rears, on Sunday I decided to install my gas tank. The gas tank I order was an Aeromotive set up with an electronic, in tank fuel pump, with a 90 gph/340 lph flow rate.

Before installing this nice new powder coated fuel tank, first thing I needed to do was clean up my trunk. It was horrible. This is another area I skipped over the last time I rebuilt this car.

Here you can see how bad it was.

After I cleaned up the trunk area I primed the whole area.

Here is the passenger side (the worse side) and you can see the patch panel where the battery hold down goes.

I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to paint the trunk. I thought about that old school trunk grey speckle paint. Then I thought about going with a straight semi gloss black. Then I realized I had a bottle of raptor liner left over. Since the raptor liner kind of hides small imperfections I decided to go with the raptor liner. Man, am I glad I did. The trunk has been completely transformed. To say I'm happy with the results is putting it lightly.

Even here where my battery tray goes looks good and it has a patch panel.

Here is my battery holder in place. I ordered some -6AN fuel line and -6AN connectors. Once they arrive I will plumb the trunk lines.

Bullitt1448 · Nov 17, 2020

Your trunk looks geat! I have been humming and hawing about what to do in mine, been leaning to POR-15
Either in Gloss white or Gloss black, the jury is still out.

kazman · Nov 17, 2020

Trunk came out great.

Black Gold 380R said:
(Picture "B") Driver's side rear end with everything in place. (Question???? For those of you with a good eye, what is the problem between picture "A" and "B"???)

The difference is shocking!

Black Gold 380R · Nov 17, 2020

Bullitt1448 said:
Your trunk looks geat! I have been humming and hawing about what to do in mine, been leaning to POR-15
Either in Gloss white or Gloss black, the jury is still out.

Thank you Bullitt1448! Really appreciate the feedback. I hear you on the jury being out. Have to make sure you make the right choice for yourself. After I primed the trunk I actually tried spraying down some trunk paint from the local parts store. I did not like it one bit. So, I decided on the Raptor liner. Man, I'm glad I did. And due to the texture I was able to spray right over that crap I got from the parts store. You can't even tell I tried something else first LOL.

kazman said:
Trunk came out great. The difference is shocking!

Thank you Kazam! AND Ding ding ding..... We have a winner. I was under the impression that when you buy shocks that they come in pairs. Apparently not with the adjustable QA1's. I went back and looked at the Summit listing and it "does" specify sold individually LMAO!!!!

Lesson learned, pay closer attention.... So, I ordered another QA1 from Summit. Should be here by this Friday.

Grabber70Mach · Nov 17, 2020

First it's looking really good. On the fuel line I seem to remember that PTFE fuel line is recommended for today's ethanol based fuels, not sure if you have to deal with that where you are. Also if running a EFI setup then make sure it's also rated for that. I'm sure you already probably know all this, but thought it was worth saying.

Black Gold 380R · Nov 17, 2020

Grabber70Mach said:
First it's looking really good. On the fuel line I seem to remember that PTFE fuel line is recommended for today's ethanol based fuels, not sure if you have to deal with that where you are. Also if running a EFI setup then make sure it's also rated for that. I'm sure you already probably know all this, but thought it was worth saying.

Hello Grabber70Mach! Thank you for your positive feedback!

I hear you on the PTFE. I don't plan on running E85. So, I went with this hose instead:

Here are the specs:

Black braided nylon fuel hose features an all-black nylon fiber braided outer cover and a Chlorinated Polyethylene (CPE) synthetic rubber inner line. Maximum Working Pressure (psi): 500 psi. Bursting Pressure(psi): 2000psi. Working Temperature Range: -40℉ to 257℉(-40℃ to 125℃).

So, it should hold up on my EFI system. I'm assuming based on the specifications.

However, after looking at the PTFE hose I may send this back and go with the PTFE. Seems to be much more versatile and have a longer life and IS E85 compatible if I ever choose to go that route in the future.

Thank you for the info my friend!

Black Gold 380R · Nov 17, 2020

Grabber70Mach said:
First it's looking really good. On the fuel line I seem to remember that PTFE fuel line is recommended for today's ethanol based fuels, not sure if you have to deal with that where you are. Also if running a EFI setup then make sure it's also rated for that. I'm sure you already probably know all this, but thought it was worth saying.

LOL, based on your comment and my research I decided to go with the PTFE. I ordered from Amazon, so I can return the CPE hose for free. I already ordered the PTFE hose.

Thanks again Grabber70Mach! This is another reason I really welcome feedback. I don't know everything...……..

gimmie11s · Nov 17, 2020

Heck yeah, looking good!

Grabber70Mach · Nov 17, 2020

@Black Gold 380R glad to be able to help a little in your awesome project by providing a little information that I've gained from others.

01yellercobra · Nov 17, 2020

Get a set of soft jaws for your vice if you don't have a set already. You'll love them when assembling the hose.

Black Gold 380R · Nov 17, 2020

01yellercobra said:
Get a set of soft jaws for your vice if you don't have a set already. You'll love them when assembling the hose.

I don't even have a vice Bob LOL. My dad does. Guess I can cut everything to length and then take the hoses to his house for assembly.

I've done steel braided hose last time. Learned a few tricks during assembly last time. If you don't cut the hose end right on steel braided lines it frays and then the wire pokes your fingers. That S#!T hurts. Feels like bamboo shoots being rammed between your fingernails LMAO.... Not that I would know what that feels like

...

01yellercobra · Nov 17, 2020

Black Gold 380R said:
I don't even have a vice Bob LOL. My dad does. Guess I can cut everything to length and then take the hoses to his house for assembly.

I've done steel braided hose last time. Learned a few tricks during assembly last time. If you don't cut the hose end right on steel braided lines it frays and then the wire pokes your fingers. That S#!T hurts. Feels like bamboo shoots being rammed between your fingernails LMAO.... Not that I would know what that feels like ...

I haven't done the normal braided stuff, but I did the PTFE on mine and a buddies car. Trying to the olive in place can be..... a bear.....

Bullitt1448 · Nov 17, 2020

I have done both steel braided and PTFE, Sreel Braid is way easier and a lot loess painfull! Soft jaws for your vice should be a "must have". I would rather do steel braided but bought PTFE for my car too due to the smell concerns.

Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread

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