1985 GT build thread.
- Thread starter suicidekings
- Start date
Not a lot has changed but do have some changes coming up.
Bought a new house and with Mustang Week only several weeks away I am deciding to change some things up.
Last pic of this engine with a carb.....
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
This is what will replace it. Holley Terminator X 4150 stealth.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
While the car is down I may attempt dropping the k member to replace a oil pan gasket and have the header slip joints welded up.
Bought a new house and with Mustang Week only several weeks away I am deciding to change some things up.
Last pic of this engine with a carb.....
This is what will replace it. Holley Terminator X 4150 stealth.
While the car is down I may attempt dropping the k member to replace a oil pan gasket and have the header slip joints welded up.
Dang when's mustang week?
I would love to go
Jesus Christ. Best looking 4 eye I've seen.
what's the best day or events to go too I'm seriously thinking about it cause i have vacation in September.
Great upgrade!
I’ll be honest I put carbureted vehicles several quality points down.
Just me, as I don’t know shit about tuning a carb, but seeing as it’s been 30yrs since a carbureted car has been sold in the US, it makes sense.
Ironically your car is the last carbed Mustang.
That carb style Holley EFI kit should make a nice upgrade, congrats man.
-J
I’ll be honest I put carbureted vehicles several quality points down.
Just me, as I don’t know shit about tuning a carb, but seeing as it’s been 30yrs since a carbureted car has been sold in the US, it makes sense.
Ironically your car is the last carbed Mustang.
That carb style Holley EFI kit should make a nice upgrade, congrats man.
-J
ummmm, the whole week honestly has stuff going on all day and night every single day. But if there was one thing to not miss its the retro meet at suck bang blow.
I stayed carb for several reasons. I know carbs and how to tune them being one of them... not the best out there but I can get it dialed in pretty close. out here in AZ there is a lot of elevation change if going north or south etc. our gas is crap and for drivability reasons I want something that will tune on the fly and learn and correct while im driving. that is exactly what this kit will do. and bonus points for looking like a carb. lol.
Seeing as how we are in a pandemic you would think that I had nothing but time however here we are months later and im now making progress on this EFI setup.
I figured I would document this setup as many have been asking about it and I feel like this holds me accountable to actually keep progress going on the car.
A couple weeks ago I decided that I would take the harness apart as I don't want it to be as visible as it would need to be if I didn't take it apart. This would also require me to rip my interior out as well so I could drill some holes and route wires.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
One thing I decided to do while I was taking the interior apart was to remove the roll bar, and do away with the door bars as I never use them. I also added a diagonal cross bar... don't ask me why but its more in line with being a road race inspired car. in reality its for looks, I won't lie lol.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Few things I spent time figuring out - I want my Holley to read my fuel pressure also want the dash to read it as well. I ended up putting a Tee in the regulator and running two sensors off that. I have my temp sensors both being used in my manifold. one for the dash gauge, the other for my fan controller. Im going to end up removing that and running my fans off my Holley. Next was how to control timing.
I could have altered settings in the Holley program to control timing with my current distributor however it would be far easier to upgrade to a dual sync distribution and have the computer control timing that way.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
So first step to swapping out the distributor is removing the strut tower brace... this was great because it will give me a chance to replace the hardware that has seen better days after two years of mustang week and that salty water and air.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
After removing the distributor I verified the gear depth and that was spot on. I did have to spin the oil pump gear to get the distributor to seat all the way. but overall it was a super smooth and simple process. End result is much better, I gain a lot of clearance between the strut tower brace and distributor cap, black wires look much better as well.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
From here I will most likely work backwards, start plumbing some new fuel lines from the firewall bulkhead to the carb throttle body. After that interior wiring then back to the front to plug it all in.
I figured I would document this setup as many have been asking about it and I feel like this holds me accountable to actually keep progress going on the car.
A couple weeks ago I decided that I would take the harness apart as I don't want it to be as visible as it would need to be if I didn't take it apart. This would also require me to rip my interior out as well so I could drill some holes and route wires.
One thing I decided to do while I was taking the interior apart was to remove the roll bar, and do away with the door bars as I never use them. I also added a diagonal cross bar... don't ask me why but its more in line with being a road race inspired car. in reality its for looks, I won't lie lol.
Few things I spent time figuring out - I want my Holley to read my fuel pressure also want the dash to read it as well. I ended up putting a Tee in the regulator and running two sensors off that. I have my temp sensors both being used in my manifold. one for the dash gauge, the other for my fan controller. Im going to end up removing that and running my fans off my Holley. Next was how to control timing.
I could have altered settings in the Holley program to control timing with my current distributor however it would be far easier to upgrade to a dual sync distribution and have the computer control timing that way.
So first step to swapping out the distributor is removing the strut tower brace... this was great because it will give me a chance to replace the hardware that has seen better days after two years of mustang week and that salty water and air.
After removing the distributor I verified the gear depth and that was spot on. I did have to spin the oil pump gear to get the distributor to seat all the way. but overall it was a super smooth and simple process. End result is much better, I gain a lot of clearance between the strut tower brace and distributor cap, black wires look much better as well.
From here I will most likely work backwards, start plumbing some new fuel lines from the firewall bulkhead to the carb throttle body. After that interior wiring then back to the front to plug it all in.
Not much of an update but I was able to get the new fuel regulator mounted and all the lines plumbed up. side note gas removes undercoating.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
I am running dual sensors for my Holley computer and one for the gauge on the dash. Unfortunately the old mount is going to stay here since I cannot reach the nuts on the back side.
I am running dual sensors for my Holley computer and one for the gauge on the dash. Unfortunately the old mount is going to stay here since I cannot reach the nuts on the back side.
Not a huge update but few things being done daily.
I have had extended studs for a long time but never got around to putting them in the front. I recall it being a huge pain in the ass on my white 98 cobra track car. I randomly grabbed a large heavy head hammer and slammed one stud twice and it actually came out easy. This little tool helped put them in. it has a bearing on the back so the spacer can turn and avoid galling up the lug nut.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
With the new wheels I always felt the yellow was out of place.... here is what im thinking. body color matched calipers. Here are my powder coat options.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
it seems "very red" is what matches the paint close.... My thought is to get that however my fear is that it will look darker since behind the wheel doesn't get a much light. so maybe go with a lighter color and since they aren't on top of each other you won't notice its a lighter shade but will just pop. "Racer red" would be about as light as I would go.
What are your thoughts?
I have had extended studs for a long time but never got around to putting them in the front. I recall it being a huge pain in the ass on my white 98 cobra track car. I randomly grabbed a large heavy head hammer and slammed one stud twice and it actually came out easy. This little tool helped put them in. it has a bearing on the back so the spacer can turn and avoid galling up the lug nut.
With the new wheels I always felt the yellow was out of place.... here is what im thinking. body color matched calipers. Here are my powder coat options.
it seems "very red" is what matches the paint close.... My thought is to get that however my fear is that it will look darker since behind the wheel doesn't get a much light. so maybe go with a lighter color and since they aren't on top of each other you won't notice its a lighter shade but will just pop. "Racer red" would be about as light as I would go.
What are your thoughts?
I like the racer red. Great build so far! This is the first I've seen if this thread.
I'll have to start reading into it. But I have a question. Are you running the holley terminator x efi? I'm planning on ordering one up and possibly the dual sync distributor.
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
I'll have to start reading into it. But I have a question. Are you running the holley terminator x efi? I'm planning on ordering one up and possibly the dual sync distributor.
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
Passion red
Pull up a chair, grab a drink and get ready for a long read lol.
yes, I have the 4150 stealth terminator X and I just swapped over to the dual sync distributor. Is it running? not yet. But I am getting closer each day.
Awesome! I may pick your brain when my install happens. Won't be until spring at the earliest.
I'm looking at the 5.0 specific kit 500-937F. I'll be interested to see your thoughts on the dual sync distributor. I had a guy on Facebook telling me there is nothing wrong with Ford's tfi module setup....
Looking forward to the reading!
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
Im coming from a carb so I didn't have the TFI. I went dual sync so I can have the computer adjust the timing.
And yeah reach out with questions. Id be happy to help.
Small progress...
My old breather setup was -8an lines which I felt were a little small but never got around to correcting the setup.
Finally got my -12AN lines in.
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Untitled by |SK Photography|, on Flickr
Hopefully this weekend I can really start making good progress on the wiring.
My old breather setup was -8an lines which I felt were a little small but never got around to correcting the setup.
Finally got my -12AN lines in.
Hopefully this weekend I can really start making good progress on the wiring.
I'm curious if you get any oil residue in the engine bay coming from the catch can filters with this setup? My old GT was always making a mess. I want to put a good oil separator setup on my current 86' and this is prolly the cleanest, simplest setup I have seen!
-Thanks
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