Black Gold 380R's 65 Mustang Build Thread

Grabber70Mach said:

It's coming along nicely. On the trunk, you may want to consider making a false floor to cover the top of the tank and fittings up before getting it upholstered.

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Thank you Grabber! I seen that MTF has a trunk panel system for the 67 Mustang. I seen that in their kit they do have a wooden panel that is installed over the tank and then carpet over that. That way you actually have a "floor" you can use in the trunk. If I do not go with the MTF kit and have an upholstery shop finish my trunk I will ensure they put something over the tank.

I will also ask them to make an access panel to my fuel filter or I'll move the fuel filter under the car if that makes things easier. I put it in the trunk since the fuel lines are already in there and to make it easy to access and clean the filter when needed.

Oh, I also found this picture on my laptop. This was the car at the muffler shop last go around. However, I'm using it as a reference to how my stance was.

I'm going to try and get it close to this again. Maybe bring the rear up just a tad to make it look a little more level. However, it didn't look like the rear was lower when it sat on the ground back then.

How much product did you use to spray underneath you car and the trunk area? Seriously considering using this after seeing yours

Bullitt1448 said:

How much product did you use to spray underneath you car and the trunk area? Seriously considering using this after seeing yours

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I bought a kit off eBay that consisted of 4 bottles of product, 1 bottle of activator (enough for the 4 bottles of product) and an applicator gun. Think the complete kit was $129.00.

I used 3 bottles for under the car and 1 for the trunk. I'm going to need to buy more as I want to do the front fender wells in Raptor line as well.

Thanks, I was looking at that same kit. probably shoud get a couple spare bottles and some activator at the same time because i was thinking of doing the sane area in it.

Bullitt1448 said:

Thanks, I was looking at that same kit. probably shoud get a couple spare bottles and some activator at the same time because i was thinking of doing the sane area in it.

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No problem.....

Yeah, I've been looking for some extra bottles and activator on their own. It seems most kits come with the gun. I know my local body shop carries Raptor liner. So, if all else fails I'll just go to my local shop and pick up 2 more bottles. I'm sure that's all I'll need to finish off my project when I'm ready for that step.

Black Gold 380R said:

Oh, I also found this picture on my laptop. This was the car at the muffler shop last go around. However, I'm using it as a reference to how my stance was.

I'm going to try and get it close to this again. Maybe bring the rear up just a tad to make it look a little more level. However, it didn't look like the rear was lower when it sat on the ground back then.

View attachment 1675182

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Probably just my eyes playing tricks on me, but it looks like that lift isn't level

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BOOGIE MAN said:

Probably just my eyes playing tricks on me, but it looks like that lift isn't level

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Could be. I never really took a close look. The car dosen't look level in that picture, but it always looked level when it was on the ground lol....

So, you may be right....

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Black Gold 380R said:

Could be. I never really took a close look. The car dosen't look level in that picture, but it always looked level when it was on the ground lol....

So, you may be right....

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Lift isn't square to the plywood under it (but you dunno if that's level) or the horizontal rail of the wall above it (which more than likely is level *edit* well, it COULD be)

Regardless, stance looks good on previous build and you're doing a hell of a job this go around


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Black Gold 380R said:

No problem.....

Yeah, I've been looking for some extra bottles and activator on their own. It seems most kits come with the gun. I know my local body shop carries Raptor liner. So, if all else fails I'll just go to my local shop and pick up 2 more bottles. I'm sure that's all I'll need to finish off my project when I'm ready for that step.

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just ordered my kit with 6 bottles of product and some extra activator. managed to get it through a Canadian company so there will be no customs/duties added. It was more expensive that way but I got the amount I shouls need. Just another added expense to building a car in Canada....

BOOGIE MAN said:

Lift isn't square to the plywood under it (but you dunno if that's level) or the horizontal rail of the wall above it (which more than likely is level *edit* well, it COULD be

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that lift looks sketchy to me

BOOGIE MAN said:

Lift isn't square to the plywood under it (but you dunno if that's level) or the horizontal rail of the wall above it (which more than likely is level *edit* well, it COULD be)

Regardless, stance looks good on previous build and you're doing a hell of a job this go around.

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Thank you @BOOGIE MAN!!! Really appreciate your feedback sir! I'm no expert, but I'm doing this to the best of "my" ability. I have big ideas, but my skill level and access to fabrication facilities is very limited.

However, with everyone's opinion in this thread and where the project has progressed to this time around I'm very happy with how it's coming out.

For some reason I thought you were going to stick with a 347, did I read correctly that you were building a 427?! If so that would be an awesome upgrade!


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geoffmt said:

For some reason I thought you were going to stick with a 347, did I read correctly that you were building a 427?! If so that would be an awesome upgrade!

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Hello geoffmt. At the beginning of this thread I was debating on what to do as far as the engine goes. I "WAS" thinking of going back to the 347 because I had all the parts already and would just need to bolt them back on a fresh short block.

Then I had a conversation with my engine builder. I "WANT" to be in the 600HP range naturally aspirated. A 347 wouldn't get me there without a power adder. I seen shows on TV (i.e. horsepower TV) where they took a 351W and stroked it to a 427 and cracked the 600HP mark on the dyno.

So, I decided to go that route. The only problem I have at this point is I plan on running my old AFR 185 heads. Those will not flow enough to get my set up to the 600HP mark. However, my engine builder said those heads flow VERY well and will make some nice torque on the street. I can always upgrade my heads later, but my engine builder told me that after I feel the power with the 427 with the AFR 185 heads he thinks I'll be happy with the performance.

So, the bottom line is this car "WILL" see a 427 in the engine bay this go around … And I can't wait to get this thing done and fired up some time next year ...

Hello everyone,

Made some progress this weekend. Actually I feel a met another mile stone in this build. I got all my brake lines routed to all my wheels. I'm still waiting on my master cylinder (MC), but I received a shipping notification from Summit. So, it should be here this week. I did call Wilwood to check on the MC before I received the notification. Just to give you guys a heads up.... I was told you never put Teflon/thread tape on brake fittings. However, the Wilwood tech indicated that their fittings that go on their calipers is an NPT fitting. The tech said ALL NPT fittings "DO" get Teflon/thread tape. So, I had to go back to my rear calipers and get that taken care of.

Man, I love living in the south. It was around 58 degrees this past weekend. The weather is allowing me to continue to make progress on this build.

Okay, as most of you know I am "trying" to keep my engine bay as sanitary as possible using my skill level and tools. Therefore, I'm trying to keep brake lines, electrical, hoses and anything else I can do to keep things "out" of the engine bay.

So, I needed to find a place to install my Wilwood proportioning valve/distribution block. Settled on the lower area of the rear outer frame rail on the driver's side. Felt this was out of the way, would not be susceptible to tire/road debris and I could easily access it when I need to make adjustments.



I made my own mounting plate. I welded the nuts to the back of the plate to make installation or removal easier and then welded the plate in place. This whole outer area will be Rhino lined so a lot of the imperfections will not stand out. Besides, everything will be covered by the fender, suspension and wheel/tire.


Then I mounted the Wilwood proportioning valve/distribution block.



Next was the difficult task of bending the hard lines. I had no template. I just figured out how I wanted to run the lines, made my measurements and then bent the line to fit the way i wanted it to. I started off with the driver's side since it was the shortest in order to get the hang of it. I also had my wife help me hold the brake line as I bent it (she mainly helped me with the passenger side).



After I was satisfied with the driver's side I tackled the passenger side. This was very difficult for me as I wanted to run the line a specific way. It needed to be out of the way, semi hidden and not interfere with other parts I need to mount (rack and pinion, suspension, oil pan, etc.). I have to be honest and tell you I looked at the MTF website to see how they ran their line with this front suspension. I got a good idea from them, but had to modify the route a little as there's is routed to the MC "inside" the engine bay. I also wanted it to mimic the routing on the driver's side to the proportioning valve.


Here is how I routed it along the cross member.



And here it is up to the passenger side mounting point.



Lastly, I had to finish up the rear brake line and get everything cleaned up. So, I installed some aluminum brake line separators. I still need to install the MC and run the hard lines to the proportioning valve. However, I'm also thinking about installing a line lock. So, we will see how that goes.

I have to say, for a rookie, I am VERY happy with how this project came out. I am really enjoying this build. And it is nice not to feel rushed to get this done. I feel I have given myself more than enough time to meet my October 2021 deadline.



Here is the NPT fitting I mentioned earlier. This went quick and easy. I'm glad I talked to the Wilwood tech. I really want to avoid leaks or any issues due to simple mistakes.

I'm still waiting for parts to finish certain this up. So, I decided to continue working on figuring out the wiring aspect of this build. I purchased some shrink tubing, colored wires and a colored wiring diagram.

The colored wire seems like it is going to make things a lot easier. Most local automotive parts stores just carry the basic color wires. My brother told me that when he wired his car he used the automotive parts store wires and when he started his car the first time he got some wires crossed because they were a standard color and he ended up melting a bunch of his new electrical wiring set up. I want to avoid that situation.

I found a website that has colored wire. It is "NOT" OEM style. My original wire has a solid color and then a straight stripe on it. The wire I found has a solid color with the stripe color wrapped around it like a candy cane. This is no problem for me as I'm not going for a factory look. I'm more interested in the wire having the similar color pattern as my factory wires.

I also ordered some various weather pack connectors. I think it will be easier to wire this thing up if I can plug and unplug wiring harnesses.

Here is the wiring diagram I purchased. This is VERY easy to read and understand. It's been a great help in understanding the way this car is wired. For those who may be interested I got this from www.calssiccarwiring.com. (Disclaimer: I am NOT sponsored by this company nor am I endorsing this company. I'm merely providing a source for those who may be interested in a product like this)



Here is some of the wire I ordered. I purchased this from www.4rcustomswire.com (please see disclaimer above).



I did a little more work on my custom electrical panel. I also mounted new wires/relays for my electric fans and fuel pump (the old ones were ugly LOL). I installed some connectors and shrink tube to the wires I placed on the starter solenoid and I added some weather pack connectors to my headlight harness and my MSD box.







Oh AND look what the nice man in the "white" truck delivered this weekend...… Glad UPS and FedEx are contributing to my sickness LMAO!!!

These billet aluminum hinges are amazing. VERY smooth operation and a ton of adjustments built in. I should be able to get my hood dialed in nicely as they came with detailed instructions and all the hardware. I think they look GREAT!!! Going to be a very nice addition to my engine bay ….

FWIW, if you need to bend hardlines again use wire coat hangers or welding rod to get an idea of where the lines will go. Then you have a template.

Nice work as usual Glenn.

01yellercobra said:

FWIW, if you need to bend hardlines again use wire coat hangers or welding rod to get an idea of where the lines will go. Then you have a template.

Nice work as usual Glenn.

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Thank you Bob! That's a great idea. I watched this video on how to bend tubing which is why I measured and bent the lines the way I did. I "DID" use the old rear brake line as a template in order to get 3/4 of my rear brake line routed. Then I just terminated it at my proportioning valve. The rear line wasn't that difficult as it was pretty straight forward. My passenger side front was the headache, but I got it done LOL. Probably would have come out a little cleaner if I used your method.

Oh well, I did mention I'm a rookie LOL....

Just wait until you flare an end and then realize you forgot to put the fitting on first. It's not a matter of if it'll happen, but when....

01yellercobra said:

Just wait until you flare an end and then realize you forgot to put the fitting on first. It's not a matter of if it'll happen, but when....

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ROFLMAO!!!! Oh it happened a couple weekends ago when I first received my brake line, bender and flaring tool. Glad I made the mistake when practicing/playing with it and not during the real thing. After that mistake I made a conscious effort to make sure that did NOT happen again LMAO!!!!

I was watching a video of a father and daughter installing brake lines on a Falcon. The daughter made that mistake. She was so pissed she left the garage to go lay on the ground outside after that mistake LMAO!!! It took them like 4 or 5 tries to get the front driver's side brake line right. They made it look like a serious undertaking...… It is if you don't understand how to do this.....