Clutch Adjustment?

dj050894

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2015
Messages
21
Location
Florida
I have a 2011 GT/CS with an Exedy Stage 3 clutch, it has been in the car for years. Recently I replaced the clutch pedal assembly with the one from a 2011 GT500. The reason I replaced it was that the bracket on the original assembly that holds the cruise control sensor was broken, crazy that the metal bracket broke before the plastic sensor, but that's besides the point. I figured I would put a GT500 pedal assembly in because everyone on the forums talks about how much better it is than the one out of the GT.

Before I made the swap, my clutch pedal had a very smooth engagement from floor to top. It was fully disengaged about 1/2 inch from the floor, and fully engaged close to the top. Now with the new pedal, the clutch is fully disengaged about an inch from the top. My question is, is there a way to make an adjustment so that the engagement is back through the whole pedal travel? The Exedy clutch is quite heavy and having the whole engagement being an inch hurts my knee a lot.
 

Turbosnake281

Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2011
Messages
259
Location
SOUTH FLORIDA
I have a 2011 GT/CS with an Exedy Stage 3 clutch, it has been in the car for years. Recently I replaced the clutch pedal assembly with the one from a 2011 GT500. The reason I replaced it was that the bracket on the original assembly that holds the cruise control sensor was broken, crazy that the metal bracket broke before the plastic sensor, but that's besides the point. I figured I would put a GT500 pedal assembly in because everyone on the forums talks about how much better it is than the one out of the GT.

Before I made the swap, my clutch pedal had a very smooth engagement from floor to top. It was fully disengaged about 1/2 inch from the floor, and fully engaged close to the top. Now with the new pedal, the clutch is fully disengaged about an inch from the top. My question is, is there a way to make an adjustment so that the engagement is back through the whole pedal travel? The Exedy clutch is quite heavy and having the whole engagement being an inch hurts my knee a lot.

clutch cable adjuster, mod the cable into it.
 

Norm Peterson

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2019
Messages
166
Location
on a corner barstool in Boston
A cable length adjuster would be a neat trick for the kind of clutch "cable" that's hollow and gets wet on the inside :D


I didn't see any mention of making the adjustments that you're looking for in my 2008 shop manual, and I doubt Ford changed much between '08 and '11.

The easy alternative would be to either repair the cruise control bracket somehow (by welding if it's all steel, or somehow with rivets if aluminum being my first thoughts), or just doing without the CC.

You didn't mention whether or not the clutch pedal position switch was affected (you probably wouldn't have been able to start the engine if it had been), but you can even live without the clutch-pedal-must-be-depressed-to start function if you're always careful about starting either with the clutch pedal depressed or the transmission in neutral.

I wasn't aware of any differences in the clutch pedal among the various S197 trims, but the reason people on Mustang forums like this one might prefer the more on-off nature of the GT500 unit could be specifically because it works like that.


Norm
 
Last edited:

dj050894

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2015
Messages
21
Location
Florida
A cable length adjuster would be a neat trick for the kind of clutch "cable" that's hollow and gets wet on the inside :D


I didn't see any mention of making the adjustments that you're looking for in my 2008 shop manual, and I doubt Ford changed much between '08 and '11.

The easy alternative would be to either repair the cruise control bracket somehow (by welding if it's all steel, or somehow with rivets if aluminum being my first thoughts), or just doing without the CC.

You didn't mention whether or not the clutch pedal position switch was affected (you probably wouldn't have been able to start the engine if it had been), but you can even live without the clutch-pedal-must-be-depressed-to start function if you're always careful about starting either with the clutch pedal depressed or the transmission in neutral.

I wasn't aware of any differences in the clutch pedal among the various S197 trims, but the reason people on Mustang forums like this one might prefer the more on-off nature of the GT500 unit could be specifically because it works like that.


Norm

It’s definitely a different transmission from 2008-2011. The 2011 was the first year of the 6 Speed manual.

The clutch pedal position switch was not affected on the old pedal assembly, however I ran into a really weird issue related to that on the new one. The bracket that holds the switch is part of the pedal assembly, but pushing the pedal to the floor wasn’t pushing the switch in enough to start the car. Makes no sense to me because the part number for the switch is the same on the GT and the GT500. I ended up taking out the rubber bumper on the pedal that pushes the sensor and putting about 15 layers of flex seal tape on it so it pushed the switch far enough to start the car. That issue makes no sense to me but I McGivered it and made it work lol.
 

Norm Peterson

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2019
Messages
166
Location
on a corner barstool in Boston
The clutch pedal position switch was not affected on the old pedal assembly, however I ran into a really weird issue related to that on the new one. The bracket that holds the switch is part of the pedal assembly, but pushing the pedal to the floor wasn’t pushing the switch in enough to start the car. Makes no sense to me because the part number for the switch is the same on the GT and the GT500.
If I was going to be generous to Ford, I'd say it was a case of sloppy tolerances or poor quality control on something down there.

Straight off the truck, something about the CPP on my '08 made it nearly as bad as what you described for your new one (pre-MacGyver'ed). Like the car would stop cranking mid-start if the pedal wasn't held firmly into the carpeting, and while you could reposition the switch it would always reset itself back to the lowest clutch pedal position that you subsequently used. I'll just say that coming into driving before CPP switches were a thing did have its advantage here . . . well, that and the idea that short circuits aren't always bad things.


Norm
 

Norm Peterson

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2019
Messages
166
Location
on a corner barstool in Boston
dunno.jpg



Norm
 

dj050894

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2015
Messages
21
Location
Florida
I'm going to try doing a vacuum bleed and see if that takes care of it. I did the gravity bleed by jacking up the front driver's side of the car and pumping the clutch a billion times, but maybe there is still air in the system.
 

hotcobra03

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2007
Messages
7,461
Location
poteet,texas
The second link you sent worked. I'm not sure what you sent the first time.

first was the page vs opening link
better to have the full link anyway

I didn't look to see if clutch pedal position switch would interfere with bleeding or pedal travel like your having

sometimes it helps for special things we don't know yet

on the 03 we had to reset cruise control switch which those footnotes gave information

side note main link also has
TSBS and recalls

I just seen the newer gt500 has recall on pedals
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top