KB 3.6LC and 1" intercooler hoses

RioRed4v

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Have a 3.6LC KB and am working on converting some of the intercooler lines over to 1" since I'm adding a trunk tank and EMP. Having some issues finding a 1" tee. This is the tee used to connect to the LC fittings from the intercooler hoses. What has everyone else used for these?
 

Willie

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Keep in mind that if you plan on using ice, KB strongly emphasizes not to tie in the LC lines into the intercooler system as you never want to run chilled water through their blower. If this IS the case (as it is on my car), I opted to design a separate system just for the blower. It has it's own (small) reservoir, pump, two (small) HE's and a pair of small fans. I can monitor the fluid temps in two locations, exactly as I've done for the intercooler system, and can report that these temps at given time are very close to each other with the front intercooler system. When I switch to the rear with ice, it's a different ball game altogether.
 

RioRed4v

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Keep in mind that if you plan on using ice, KB strongly emphasizes not to tie in the LC lines into the intercooler system as you never want to run chilled water through their blower. If this IS the case (as it is on my car), I opted to design a separate system just for the blower. It has it's own (small) reservoir, pump, two (small) HE's and a pair of small fans. I can monitor the fluid temps in two locations, exactly as I've done for the intercooler system, and can report that these temps at given time are very close to each other with the front intercooler system. When I switch to the rear with ice, it's a different ball game altogether.

Yea, now that I've had a night to sleep on it I'm starting to rethink the current setup. I was initially just trying to replicate what the previous owner and shop did on their install but now I'm thinking of moving the LC lines back to the engine coolant circuit rather than the intercooler. Found some info mentioning how using it on the IC circuit can put unwanted heat back in to the coolant there and then of course there is the inability to use ice. Lack of ice doesn't bother me since I primarily street drive the car, but it would be nice to have a functional ice tank if I ever did want to.

So I think I'm going to try and create something similar to what Revan sells (Revan Racing KB Liquid Cooled Lines Engine Coolant) except use pushlock hose/fittings and some clamps and then just keep the IC system separate.
 

Willie

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I see you are in Vegas. Our climates are basically identical, for what it's worth.

Yep, the only alternative is to tee into the engine coolant lines as you mention. That's pretty much the only option left, same as when I installed mine. But I definitely did not get a warm fuzzy feeling knowing I'm using 190 deg F temp coolant to "cool" the supercharger! This is why I decided to fab my own self-contained blower cooling system. Now that I've had this for two years, I can say with certainty what my coolant temps are, engine, front IC system, rear IC system, and supercharger cooling system, given any condition.

Willie
 

RioRed4v

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I see you are in Vegas. Our climates are basically identical, for what it's worth.

Yep, the only alternative is to tee into the engine coolant lines as you mention. That's pretty much the only option left, same as when I installed mine. But I definitely did not get a warm fuzzy feeling knowing I'm using 190 deg F temp coolant to "cool" the supercharger! This is why I decided to fab my own self-contained blower cooling system. Now that I've had this for two years, I can say with certainty what my coolant temps are, engine, front IC system, rear IC system, and supercharger cooling system, given any condition.

Willie

Agreed about the part of using the 190* coolant to cool down the supercharger. That part still doesn't make sense why it would be set up that way but your system sounds like the best overall approach for sure.
 

SCALILOU

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How did you do this? Does the system use its own IC pump and degas tank?
I see you are in Vegas. Our climates are basically identical, for what it's worth.

Yep, the only alternative is to tee into the engine coolant lines as you mention. That's pretty much the only option left, same as when I installed mine. But I definitely did not get a warm fuzzy feeling knowing I'm using 190 deg F temp coolant to "cool" the supercharger! This is why I decided to fab my own self-contained blower cooling system. Now that I've had this for two years, I can say with certainty what my coolant temps are, engine, front IC system, rear IC system, and supercharger cooling system, given any condition.

Willie

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Poisonous West

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I have the KB 3.6 L/C on my car. I am not a big fan of using the hot engine coolant to cool down the supercharger since the engine coolant always at 180F on average hot summer day - I have the 170F thermostat installed already.

The intercooler coolant is not that hot even after several hard pulls.

I am still using the OEM IC coolant plastic reservoir and I know lots of people switch to the bigger aluminium IC tank (the one sits inside the engine compartment) . But the aluminium is an EXCELLENT thermal conductor but the OEM plastic tank actually acts as a heat barrier inside the hot engine compartment when the hood is closed. The IC coolant inside the OEM plastic tank gets barely warm on a hot summer day after the engine shot off with the hood closed. The underhood temperature is at least 180F on a hot summer day. The aluminium IC tank would heat up the coolant to the same temperature inside the engine compartment once the engine shut off.
 

Willie

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As promised:

My Self-Contained 4.2 KB Liquid Cooler System
The entire system uses 3/8" braided stainless hoses with -06an fittings and 3/8" rubber lines with hose barbs (temporary). Moving from the supercharger outlet, a 90-deg -06an hose fitting >>
LC Lines Closeup 001.jpeg


The hose connects to a custom made reservoir >>
SC Cooling Reservoir 001 Reduced.jpg


The line then runs through a stainless mesh filter (no pic), then to the pump. It is mounted on the left side frame rail. >>
Pump 003 Reduced.jpg


From there to a pair of small heat exchangers, the first being an 18-inch long tube and fin frame rail heat exchanger. >>
Lower Tube and Fin Closeup 001.jpg


Airflow is achieved through a long slotted opening in the factory lower splitter with a scoop. >>
Lower Tube and Fin Air Scoop 001 Reduced.jpg


From here, the coolant is routed to the upper Derale stacked heat exchanger, fitted with a pair of 5.2" Spal puller fans (no pic of fans). >>
Upper Stacked HE 001 Reduced.jpeg


... and back to the supercharger through a 45-deg -06an hose fitting.

The pump and fans are wired to turn on with the intercooler pump (front or rear). Or through a manual test circuit I installed under the hood (pic below).

The coolant is monitored by a programmable digital dual temp gauge (center gauge in pic), >>
Glove Box Gauges 001 Reduced.jpg


...and by another digital temp gauge on the control panel. >>
Control Panel 001 Reduced.jpg



To achieve maximum cooling, the flow rate can be adjusted by varying voltage to the pump. I built and installed a variable voltage regulator. Temps are monitored with the underhood digital gauge (when not driving) and the Hi / Lo switch which controls the temp gauge sending units (I did not have space for two gauges!). Also contained on the panel are switches to test the pump, turn on both fans, and adjust pump voltage (flow).

I can report that the temps in this circuit at any given time are very comparable to the IC fluid temps, i.e. within 10 degrees F. So this system works equally as well as one that is plumbed into the intercooler system, minus the heat load from the supercharger, which is approximately 70 to 100 degrees cooler than piping this into the engine coolant stream. The difference is being able to turn on my rear IC system with ice. Best of both worlds... Then there's my one-of-a-kind methanol system (for another day, another time)...

Willie
 
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SCALILOU

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Wow, I'm impressed Willie. Thanks for the pics. The glove box gauge set up is something I definitely want to do. I can't believe your kenne bell has its own HE, lol. That awesome man. You definitely need to do more write ups on your Shelby's mods.

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Willie

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Thank you sir. Just a tad more on the glove box. I made it open "further" by modifying the stop into a two-detent system. Initially when you open it, it goes only so far as my fist pic. Then by pushing in on the right side with additional pressure, it opens even further, exposing a few of my other goodies.
Glove Box Gauges Reduced 002.jpg


What you see now is my progressive methanol controller and Vampire knock system. The controller is easily pulled out, accessing the adjustable pots inside (rare that I need to do this). This is the only exception to my rule of advertising aftermarket products on my car.

The Vampire appears not to be plugged in but don't let that fool you. I did not like wires exposed and hanging all over the face, so I spliced into everything internally and ran the wires out the back. I have no idea why anyone would put a connector on the front side.

The three switches: 1) To turn on the five gauges with the ignition off (basically used at car shows), 2) Power switch for the Vampire (I have a custom-made LED panel in my line of sight near the sun visor, which can be a distraction under normal driving, so I turn on the Vampire basically at the track only), and 3) Glove box lamp (shown turned on).

What's located under the gauge panel is the N2MB WOT box. The 9-pin DIN you see is the programming connection port for my laptop and push button that can be used in lieu of the laptop for limited settings changes.

Willie
 
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