2010 UCA versus 2011-2014

My 2010 GT500 has a 8.5" space CTC between the differential bushing and the UCA bushing. What is the actual difference between a newer 2011-14 UCA versus the 2010 and older UCAs?
The differential bushings appear to be the same for 2005-2014 or am I wrong??
Is it the UCA body mount that makes the difference? If I replace both the body mount and control arm will a 2011-2014 unit fit and bolt up to the 2010? Are the body mounting holes in the same positions?
I looked at my differential bushing - looks good on one side and slight hairline crack around the metal sleeve on the other. Not sure yet if I should replace that too.


ANSWER: Stage3 Motorsports answered the question. Yes the 2011-2014 stronger mount style will work in the 2010 GT500 but the upper mount center bolt and main mounting bolt is different between the years. You also cannot mix mounts and UCAs for 2005-2010 with 2011-2014. The 2011-2014 has a longer UCA bar length so the center mount hole for the UCA bar is moved frontward. Also the center hole/bolt is a different size between the model years. Replace the mount and UCA as a pair to eliminate any issues. If upgrading from a 2005-2010 model year set to the 2011-2014 set make sure your upgrade contains the mount to UCA nut/bolt along with the purchase of the larger in car under seat mount bolt - Replacement bolt available from Ford - W714389-S439

Check out Robert's post #7 in this thread: https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...unts-with-new-uca-lcas.1149375/#post-15729336

I have been through this with mine. I went from an 11-14 mount back to an 07-10 mount by accident to be honest.
I have not had any slop issues I thought I would with there being a gap in the hole from using the correct mount and bolt.
I drive the hell out of the car and launch it on drag radials with lots of boost and no issues. I will say learn from my mistakes and do not overstress this mod. Esp if you have a good aftermarket upper already. Its moot as these things are like 12lbs of steel and not going anywhere. This was another one of those internet things that someone probably made it be more of a problem than is actually was. Me actually driving the car on both, I can confirm I have not seen any issues going backwards to the original style with the smaller bolt

I still have the longer/more robust BMR 2011-2014 UCA/UCM in my 2008 with no issues.......

R

SCGallo2 said:

Check out Robert's post #7 in this thread: https://www.svtperformance.com/thre...unts-with-new-uca-lcas.1149375/#post-15729336

Click to expand...

WOW!!! It seems like forever ago since I did those side-by-side picture comparisons!!

R

Anyone know the Ford or BMR 2011-2014 bolt size or part number for the large bolt connecting the brace to the trailing arm (the one that runs through their poly bushing)? I suspect the BMR and Ford parts would be the same size but I don't see a Ford part number in the diagrams.

XP900 said:

Anyone know the Ford or BMR 2011-2014 bolt size or part number for the large bolt connecting the brace to the trailing arm (the one that runs through their poly bushing)? I suspect the BMR and Ford parts would be the same size but I don't see a Ford part number in the diagrams.

Click to expand...

It is not a Ford part. It is just a standard bolt from a hardware store

Not sure how much it helps, but I go into a pretty deep amount of detail of the UCA topic on this video including the larger bolt thing and 11-14 bracket thing

PM-Performance said:

It is not a Ford part. It is just a standard bolt from a hardware store

Not sure how much it helps, but I go into a pretty deep amount of detail of the UCA topic on this video including the larger bolt thing and 11-14 bracket thing

Click to expand...

Thanks,,

I went with the RTR 11-14 UCA and a J&M 11-14 upper control arm mount. If I see no slop between the UCA and mount hole sizes I will be installing them....I'll use TS Corp. for a grade 8 bolt that fits tight. The snowman holes in the BMR unit really bothered me and I didn't want any NVH from their poly bushing. The RTR and J&M parts are supposed to be redesigned newer models with heavy gauge steel. Plus the RTR uses the Whiteline Max-c bushing which is supposed to be quieter than the BMR poly bushings..time will tell if it really matters.

I have FRPP touring mufflers (11-14) to put on my 2010 (modified with 11-14 exhaust). I watched your Borla touring versus Corsa exhaust videos 0- interesting comparison and those Corsa would have my neighbors complaining to me - except the one next door who is deaf already. I have no idea what mine will sound like when I start it since it will have factory 13 head pipe with cats, lethal SS mid pipes and the FRPP touring muffs all running on 2.75 pipe size. Hopefully it works together well.

If this is what is in question, here are the side-by-sides of the "through bolt", BMR 2007-2010 (on top) and BMR 2011-2014.......



and the comparo oem.....2007-2010 and 2011-2014......



R

and the longer/more robust 2011-2014 BMR in a 2008.......



R

I think this question may have been ask, but i can't seem to find the answer. Are there changes need to be made at the UCA mount to body, or do the OEM mounting bolts work?

einehund said:

I think this question may have been ask, but i can't seem to find the answer. Are there changes need to be made at the UCA mount to body, or do the OEM mounting bolts work?

Click to expand...

I used the oem bolts to attach the 2011-2014 BMR UCM (Upper Control Mount) to the floor of my 2008. It was a direct bolt in place.....and then the longer/more robust 2011-2014 UCA Upper Arm attached from there with no issues.....

R

Here's another weird scenario I ran into....

I used the MMT-1 puller (needed some modifications to make it work) to replace the upper differential bushing that the control arm connects to. Not an easy task even with some of the right tools. (The rubber looked a little cracked but was probably okay.)

I ordered part number BR3Z5A638B from American Muscle since it said all 2005-14 Mustangs and a quick search showed it was used on Shelbys too.

I compared the old and new part and they were different! I still installed it and later researched it in more detail. The 2010 (Shelby too) and some older models used part 5R3Z5A638DA. This part has a smaller outer diameter of the inner metal bushing and it appears to have more rubber around the bushing. The open cutouts of the rubber on both sides are smaller too. The new part I put in uses a slightly larger outside diameter of the internal bushing and has less rubber since the outside surface is closer to the metal sleeve. (I wouldn't have noticed it but my spacing washers tipped me off when they wouldn't fit over the internal bushing.) It also contains less supporting rubber. Both the old and new have the same inside diameter of the bushing used the same bolt part number for connecting.

Not sure why the two parts are different but since I am installing the 2011-14 UCA I'm not too concerned about it. I didn't see any mention of the old SR3Z5A638DA getting superceded by this BR3Z5A638B part which kind of puzzles me.