96' Procharged Cobra "Casper" Build

01silverstang

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I think I'm going to have to take Bottlefed5 up on the stock radiator... whomever installed the 97+ radiator and fan never modified the lower brackets, I can't even find how to modify them per the TSB and I'm not going to have a comfortable amount of room to add the power pipe and air filter. Anybody want to buy an LS1 oil pain for a SBC swap? Hopefully somebody does local because this thing keeps asking me for money lol.

rad1.jpg
rad2.jpg
 

DaveWertz

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I think I'm going to have to take Bottlefed5 up on the stock radiator... whomever installed the 97+ radiator and fan never modified the lower brackets, I can't even find how to modify them per the TSB and I'm not going to have a comfortable amount of room to add the power pipe and air filter. Anybody want to buy an LS1 oil pain for a SBC swap? Hopefully somebody does local because this thing keeps asking me for money lol.

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I know exactly how that feels. I bought mine 2yrs ago to date. Forged motor with piles of other good things. Chased down a TON of small problems like small stupid oil leaks that drove me to the wall. A few minor adjustments. Then I had the wonderful idea of needing more power so I supercharged it, then this winter realized (well more like others been telling me all along) that I need to intercool this thing. SOOOO I did a FMIC install while I was home for 16 days because I had covid. Had nothing better to do. So after going blow through, welding, cutting ect I finally accomplished my goal. I lost track of money after the 6k mark... I will say without this forum I would have been clueless. The fact that I ran a 4" tall filter on the end of my power pipe proves that LOL. Im sure I lost so PSI due to that giant restriction itself... But yeah these cars demand TONS of money. In my case hiding some of those funds from the wife isnt lying, if she doesn't ask then does it really count?
 

01silverstang

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Finally met Bottlefed this weekend, super nice guy and definitely hooked me up. Hopefully this week I will be able to get the radiator and fan swapped out.

He listened to the video of the car running again, and something we both noticed was the blower didn't seem to whistle like you would expect. I'm going to bypass the blower with a stock belt this week, and if the noise goes away... remove the Procharger and send it in for a rebuild. In that case I'll need the stock belt anyways... and I want to be ready for summer with a fully functioning car.
 

01silverstang

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I should have more to post this evening as the stock belt arrives today. In the meantime I would love some recommendations on the best way to incorporate a catch can with my build. I'm not sure what considerations there are with forced induction and I don't want to pressure the crank case... school me on what and where.
 

DaveWertz

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I should have more to post this evening as the stock belt arrives today. In the meantime I would love some recommendations on the best way to incorporate a catch can with my build. I'm not sure what considerations there are with forced induction and I don't want to pressure the crank case... school me on what and where.
I just got the JLT 3.0 and did the driver side. Took me about 10min to install. No miles yet to see how well it works just idle time. Dyno run next Friday then we will see how well they do.
 

BOTTLEFED5

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I should have more to post this evening as the stock belt arrives today. In the meantime I would love some recommendations on the best way to incorporate a catch can with my build. I'm not sure what considerations there are with forced induction and I don't want to pressure the crank case... school me on what and where.
I'll see if i can find a pic of how i had it setup when i had the b head motor in the car.

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01silverstang

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I just got the JLT 3.0 and did the driver side. Took me about 10min to install. No miles yet to see how well it works just idle time. Dyno run next Friday then we will see how well they do.
Are you still routing the passenger side PCV into the intake pre-blower?

I'm wondering if there is a specific side that is recommended, if both sides should be tied into the catch can, etc.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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edit - forgot this was an older car and the lines might be run differently. Below is how it works on a 99+ cobra/mach

you won't pressurize the valve covers/crank case if you just run the pcv lines straight to the catch can and cap off the intake port on the driver's side. The other option is to keep the driver's side connected but put in a one way check valve.
 

01silverstang

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edit - forgot this was an older car and the lines might be run differently. Below is how it works on a 99+ cobra/mach

you won't pressurize the valve covers/crank case if you just run the pcv lines straight to the catch can and cap off the intake port on the driver's side. The other option is to keep the driver's side connected but put in a one way check valve.
That's what I wondered, I thought in order for it to work one line needed to have vacuum which is why it would connect to the intake cold air piping or the driver's side intake port... so that it pulls the vapors through the line to the catch can.
 

DaveWertz

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Are you still routing the passenger side PCV into the intake pre-blower?

I'm wondering if there is a specific side that is recommended, if both sides should be tied into the catch can, etc.
I am. The passenger side is still routed to my power pipe. Driver side tube comes off the PVC into the catch can, out to the intake. Id say the driver side is recommended on 96-98 cobras. Lots of people do both but with my setup and my passenger side tied into my power pipe I did not see any reason to run both. I may later on down the road.
 

01silverstang

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Great progress thus far! Glad to see you are saving it instead of parting it out.
its been a frustrating day... thought because I hadn’t burped it again that I could get away with removing the upper radiator hose in preparation of removing the belt. Nope spilled coolant everywhere and had to clean it up... rookie mistake.

Tonight I’m installing new plugs and every plug that’s come out looks like this...
F75-A1507-42-B7-4860-9401-D08-B2-B5-D0200.jpg


Pistons look dirty, makes me wonder if the valve seals are a little leaky...

I just want to get the damn thing running lol.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Shit happens lol

I will say having that bypass hose out of the way is my favorite thing about the crossover delete. Easy to burp is a close second

I’m sure it’ll appreciate the fresh plugs
 

01silverstang

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Shit happens lol

I will say having that bypass hose out of the way is my favorite thing about the crossover delete. Easy to burp is a close second

I’m sure it’ll appreciate the fresh plugs

Just finished... I think it was just running really rich... every plug looked identical, and every piston top did too. The plugs had a light gas smell. I think I would be worried if a single cylinder looked very different than the rest, no coolant smell on any of the plugs either.
 

01silverstang

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So, the frustration continues… sent pictures to Mike Post at DynotuneMP since the car came with his sticker on the back driver’s window. He saves his tunes by owner name, so I’m working on trying to figure out who owned it during the period that the Procharger kit was purchased. Prior owner doesn’t have the SCT tuner that would have come with the Procharger kit, and was told without it if he can’t locate tune, I’m looking at $400 for tuner and $650 for tune….

Mike advised the plug indicates the car is running very rich, and that we need to isolate what is causing this. My understanding is that certain things like coils, fuel pressure sensor either work or they don’t. So that limits it a bit, it has a slot style MAF since it’s blow through so I can pull the sensor and clean it, maybe blowby gunked it up? I can also replace the 02 Sensors which could be the problem? Could this just be incomplete combustion due to worn out spark plugs? Every plug and every piston top looked identical.

I’m already spending money I didn’t anticipate to get the blower sorted out, really don’t have $1,000 for tuner and tune. I wonder if there are more reasonable options in the Chicago area?
 

DSG2003Mach1

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dont put the cart before the horse and step away from the parts cannon.

With fresh plugs I would see how it runs and verify where your noise(s) are coming and fix those. If it's got a bad idle/miss or anything then maybe try to look into your coils and wires.

If you want get some MAF cleaner (MAF cleaner, NOT electrical cleaner as it leaves a coating behind) and clean that out. Who knows what kinda shit gas or just total lack of maintenance this car has had.
 

01silverstang

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dont put the cart before the horse and step away from the parts cannon.

With fresh plugs I would see how it runs and verify where your noise(s) are coming and fix those. If it's got a bad idle/miss or anything then maybe try to look into your coils and wires.

If you want get some MAF cleaner (MAF cleaner, NOT electrical cleaner as it leaves a coating behind) and clean that out. Who knows what kinda shit gas or just total lack of maintenance this car has had.

Yeah I don't have the money to just throw at it anyways.

This may be a stupid question, but the previous owner did shred the belt and I know it was moved from time to time, as well as when I purchased it without the serpentine belt. The PCM users sensors to adjust the fuel delivery no matter if the tune is stock or professionally tuned... could the fueling tables have been adjusted for the blower to the point that with the blower not spinning it still put in the same amount of fuel at idle?

I guess it won't matter for awhile until the blower comes back, but once it is... I'll clean the MAF with MAF cleaner and see how it runs.
 

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