Swapped Eaton M122 with a 2014 TVS

Will I need to retune if swapping from the Eaton M122 to the 14 TVS? I just picked one up with 30k miles and in perfect condition. Just wondering if I will need to adjust my tune at all? Also will the 2014 injectors fit my 2010?


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You will definitely need a retune for the blower and new injectors.

me32 said:

You will definitely need a retune for the blower and new injectors.

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Yeah I figured I would. Will the injectors fit?


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SVT_Apache_Driver said:

Yeah I figured I would. Will the injectors fit?


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Yup the factory 2014 55lb injectors will fit. Just needs to be tuned before driving with them.

The TVS is capable of higher boost levels, as is the M-122 with smaller pulleys. The OEM load calibration will be exceeded with more boost, and the OEM timing is too high for anything more than 9 psi. The car can be driven, but if you get into boost, you risk detonation. If you're already tuned for a smaller upper and lower pulley and you are tuned, you might check with your tuner to determine if your tune is safe with higher boost. If tuned and boost is about the same, it should not be an issue. The injector body is basically the same, but almost any injector swap, if not identical to what you're replacing, is going to need the parameters that go with that specific injector. It will plug, but it won't play. Either of these mods require a tune or a tune revision. It's cheaper to accommodate both at the same time. You might consider any other planned mods you're contemplating and do a tune once. It takes a lot of self restraint to stay out of the throttle, and if you think you need a tune after reading this, I'd do it, even if you can't datalog, or do so with a wideband. Someone should be able to provide you with a conservative mail order tune to keep you from engine damage.

Catmonkey said:

The TVS is capable of higher boost levels, as is the M-122 with smaller pulleys. The OEM load calibration will be exceeded with more boost, and the OEM timing is too high for anything more than 9 psi. The car can be driven, but if you get into boost, you risk detonation. If you're already tuned for a smaller upper pulley, you might check with your tuner to determine if your tune is safe with higher boost. If boost is the same, it should not be an issue. The injector body is basically the same, but almost injector swap, if not identical to what you're replacing, is going to need the parameters that go with that specific injector. It will plug, but it won't play. Either of these mods require a tune revision. It's cheaper to accommodate both at the same time. You might consider any other planned mods and do the tune once.

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My Eaton and elbow was ported and polished by Jokerz Performance and I was using a 2.6 pulley. I have a JLT intake, Ford Racing Throttle body, 10% underdrive pulley, Borla exhaust and stainless works LT headers. The TVS has the OE pulley and I have not put in the injectors. If I am not beating on it should it be ok to drive for now?


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It needs to be re-tuned, that is going to be a big change compared to the OEM blower. Unless you want to risk a 15k motor on a $500 retune.

SVT_Apache_Driver said:

If I am not beating on it should it be ok to drive for now?

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Yes you should be able to drive it if you don't go WOT. I presume your car was tuned before with that mod list. A knowledgeable tuner can set up the timing tables to where they'll work with more boost. Check with the tuner to see if it will be safe with the existing tune. The injectors will be a problem unless the tune parameters are changed. Don't install them without a tune revision.

Upgrading the injectors to the 13/14’ OEM part is the issue. Like Catmonkey indicated, you need a tune adjustment to adapt to the injector upgrade. You can definitely drive the car with the blower upgrade as long as you’re smart and don’t get to boost/higher RPM. But the injector upgrade will result in driveability issues without a tune.

When I upgraded to the 13/14 injectors, got a temporary mail order tune from my guy, and went for an in-person dyno tune 2 months later.

IronTerp said:

Upgrading the injectors to the 13/14’ OEM part is the issue. Like Catmonkey indicated, you need a tune adjustment to adapt to the injector upgrade. You can definitely drive the car so the blower upgrade as long as you’re smart and don’t get to boost/higher RPM. But the injector upgrade will result in drive ability issues without a tune.

When I upgraded to the 13/14 injectors, got a temporary mail order tune from my guy, and went for an in-person dyno tune 2 months later.

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Yeah I have to settle for an email tune here in Hawaii. There isn’t a trustworthy Dyno to tune on. I’ll just hold off on the injectors for now and drive like Miss Daisy.


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SVT_Apache_Driver said:

Yeah I have to settle for an email tune here in Hawaii. There isn’t a trustworthy Dyno to tune on. I’ll just hold off on the injectors for now and drive like Miss Daisy.


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Before installing anything I would recommend you contact the tuner you plan to use. Let them advise you Before you install parts.

That engine is not cheap and even more expensive to get one to you in Hawaii.

Lots of good email tuners should be able to get you dialed in with just a couple of revisions, if any at all. Palm Beach Dyno, BJ @ Venomus Tuning, Lund would be the three that come to mind immediately. They should be able to tune your combo very easily.

azc0bra said:

Lots of good email tuners should be able to get you dialed in with just a couple of revisions, if any at all. Palm Beach Dyno, BJ @ Venomus Tuning, Lund would be the three that come to mind immediately. They should be able to tune your combo very easily.

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Id also say @Shaun@AED and @Justin@VMP.

Call BJ @ Venomous. He’s the ****in man

As stated above, I would recommend a tune from any of the above tuners. The issue you're going to have is that you have a 2010, it doesn't have wideband 02's. You can likely get an email tune from a tuner based on the mods you have installed and it will run good (including the 13/14 injectors). If you want remote tuning and datalogging, you're either going to have to install a wideband 02 (I did a Zeitronix) or you'll have to use a dyno to read 02. I've been running on a Lund canned tune for almost a year now and it runs great. I'm sure there's power left on the table but it's as good as it's gonna get without datalogging. I'm in the process of installing a KB 2.8LC kit right now but I'm going to stay with the KB tune that came in the kit for emissions reasons.

BJ remote tuned mine several times using datalogging. Ultimately I had to go to a local dyno to get it really dialed in, but that was the final touch and partly due to some computer issues I was having. A competent tuner will be able to get you where you want to be. It will require a wide band O2 sensor as was stated.

HKusp said:

BJ remote tuned mine several times using datalogging. Ultimately I had to go to a local dyno to get it really dialed in, but that was the final touch and partly due to some computer issues I was having. A competent tuner will be able to get you where you want to be. It will require a wide band O2 sensor as was stated.

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I will most likely tune with BJ. I don’t trust any of the dyno’s here on the island. I have heard a lot of bad reports.


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So update: I already have 13/14 Injectors in my car. After installing the blower should I need to retune for air to fuel if I’m already tuned for 13/14 injectors?


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If you want to actually mash the pedal, yes, the amount of air the TVS moves is much greater. If you don't want to mash on the go pedal, then why did you go through the trouble of swapping in the bigger blower? You need tuning for it to be safe. Remember lean is mean, and that's doesn't mean in a good way.

Lund did remote tuning on my car using road logs while I was stationed on an island without a dyno. It just involved doing pulls on the street, which I did at 3 in the morning when no one was on the street; just food for thought.