Valve cover reinstall question

Where does the Ultra Black RTV go exactly when reinstalling the valve covers on the 4.6? I've read where it meets the timing cover, to hold on to the plug seals, to hold on to the gasket itself during reinstall, but thought I'd ask to be sure.

Also if anyone has any updated pics or walkthrough on the process of removing the covers they could share that would be great, otherwise I'm planning on pulling the hydroboost nuts, brake junction nut, and clutch cable to make room for the job.

I put it between the plug grommets and valve cover. Mostly to keep them in place. And put some on the parting line between the timing cover and block. There's no need for RTV between the gasket and valve cover.

01yellercobra said:

I put it between the plug grommets and valve cover. Mostly to keep them in place. And put some on the parting line between the timing cover and block. There's no need for RTV between the gasket and valve cover.

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All the way around the inner rim of the plug grommet or do you mean on the mating surface of it where it sits on the valve cover itself?

DuffManRHA said:

All the way around the inner rim of the plug grommet or do you mean on the mating surface of it where it sits on the valve cover itself?

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On the mating surface on tbe valve cover side. Not a whole lot either.

I used a tiny bit like glue to hold the gaskets while putting it on the car. But yeah don't need a ton

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RTV is needed anywhere there is a seam. So when reinstalling the valve covers this is where the timing cover meets the block. You also need RTV when replacing the oil pan gasket where the rear main seal meets the block and where the timing cover meets the block.

The RTV is not intended for holding other gaskets in place. You are using it to seal the crankcase.

--Joe

DuffManRHA said:

Where does the Ultra Black RTV go exactly when reinstalling the valve covers on the 4.6? I've read where it meets the timing cover, to hold on to the plug seals, to hold on to the gasket itself during reinstall, but thought I'd ask to be sure.

Also if anyone has any updated pics or walkthrough on the process of removing the covers they could share that would be great, otherwise I'm planning on pulling the hydroboost nuts, brake junction nut, and clutch cable to make room for the job.

Click to expand...

I just replaced my Factory Five Cobra, 5.0 302/345 leaking valve cover gaskets 2 mos. ago with "Fel-Pro perm- a -dry" gaskets.
As per their directions ..."NO RTV or any other sealer is needed".... Now...All leaks are history ! LOVE their products!!!
Also used their perm- a -dry gasket on my oil pan leak.Now its as dry as the desert
On a 1 to 10 I rate their products a 12
>> Valve Cover Gaskets | Fel-Pro Gaskets
>>> oil pan https://www.ffcars.com/attachments/009-jpg.362912/
>>> valve cover https://www.ffcars.com/attachments/029-jpg.362913/

When pulling booster,

I only unbolted mc from booster and bolt holding brake lines to frame,reachable from above wheel when car is lifted ,

I pulled battery, booster will reach here easily without any lines removed, tie to hold,

hotcobra03 said:

When pulling booster,

I only unbolted mc from booster and bolt holding brake lines to frame,reachable from above wheel when car is lifted ,

I pulled battery, booster will reach here easily without any lines removed, tie to hold,

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So you did NOT have to do the step whereby you took out the bolts under the dash behind the brake pedal assy and just removed the MC itself and the brake lines to the frame (I know where you're talking about on that)? Edit : did any PS fluid come out when you unbolted it, or will it only leak out if you remove one of the lines?

I've done plenty of VC changes on the 5.0 that's long gone but this is the first time on this car and I def do not want to do it more than once, certainly not the driver's side for sure. Should it be a thin "smear" on the mating surface for the plug grommets and a small dab at the other places (timing cover gasket meeting place)?

Also, how long do you let the RTV setup before throwing it on? I usually use Ultra Black and was thinking 5-10 mins to gel up so it doesn't slide around while dropping these monsters down on the head.

Thanks so much for the help, I really appreciate it

Yes pull nuts on inside to remove booster also , than nuts holding mc to booster,

Nut holding lines to frame will allow mc to flex move away from motor where your elbows will be and not kink the line when of if you rest against it

No ps fluid will come out of booster

No lines need to be removed

On brake pedal you pull pin to remove push rod

When you reinstall. On left side of brake pedal is a switch for cruise control ,
This you reset, simple
Unhook rod from pedal, push rod into switch should hear a click
Than attach to brake pedal with pushing pedal to hook.

Those plug well seals. Overnite would be best but an hour may be enough to hold them when cover is upside down