I’ve had the parts list with all the Brembo numbers on my site for years as an FYI: http://www.terminator-cobra.com/Brembo%202000%20Cobra%20R%20Caliper%20parts.pdf
The arbitrary jump to +0.020'' is a bad idea if it isn't absolutely necessary. Your block is one-and-done at that point.
Everything you need to know ---> Aluminator Gibtec Build
Also, Steeda has their "G-Trac" brace that will fit, along with the OE 2-point version. When I bought the MM 4-point brace, I had to just assume it would fit since the mounting points looked the same, and it was a total score that it was perfect (also made sure to let the guys at MM know this)...
Of course you can use a brace with the Steeda version. Here’s where all the fervor started, and lots of info on it:
Chassis & Steering
Glad to see new ones in the works. Mine has been in now for almost seven years and has been perfect since day one.
^^The larger bolts are a benefit of using them for sure. My build was definitely not on a "budget", but glad I went with the '98 cams anyway.
Lots of detail in the thread from a few years back: Aluminator Gibtec Build
Custom is the way to go. Had a local shop rebuild and upgrade mine to 170A and it's been in there for several years now. Otherwise, it's probably easy enough to put your own 3G kit together. You can also find brand new V-6 105A alternators (which is what the Terminator got) and swap in your...
Best bang for the buck out there - definitely Gibtec. Mine were their launch set for the mod motors and they’ve sold a lot since:
Aluminator Gibtec Build
Transmission removal and a clutch job isn't hard. Those adjustable pivot balls on the other hand - total pain. The reason I went with a Centerforce DF clutch (other than it being much cheaper) is to leave out the hassle of the pivot, and it's been perfect. For you, MM makes an adjuster that...
Why limit yourself - run both if you need to.
Have the Interceptor and dual WB on the pillar, and the Vampire's knock monitor above the steering column. Perfect amount of info.
There's a special tool that completely locks the flywheel. Once that is done, it's not hard to break the crank pulley bolt loose. As far as the rest of the procedure, it's spelled out in the service manual. Has been downloadable for years --------> SVT Documents
Flywheel tool:
The one I originally had, which Frank Moriarty used (along with a bunch of my other pictures) for V.2 of IF,LF...now owned by a member on this forum. Neat, but they just take up too much space!
-----> SVT Stuff
Test drove one a couple weeks back and loved it - will definitely be replacing my '14 Sport soon. The new chassis and suspension is so much better, and the 2.7/3.0 ecoboost engine(s) are beasts. Sure the touch screen is a bit goofy, but once you play with it and realize how much easier it is to...