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I hear you...the tool may have ruined the threads anyway. I haven't ever actually used one myself. I plan to try it out for the experience on the audi topside motor mount bolts this Summer.

Not sure that it would have worked for you, but for future reference there is something called a nut-splitter.....

Like butter....vague, sloppy and lose.

Answers will vary..T45 I switched from Valvoline to Castrol to Redline. Iirc it was D4... I like the Redline best.

I have the OEM mounted behind a mesh grill.

I would just get paint kit from paintscratch.com and paint the fender yourself. You could do the fender by hand and rattlecan.

We see you!! Great research! Please make a clean-new thread with roadmap when you are finished. I posted my encouragement on your post as well. Please gather up your thoughts and pics and make a new complete post.

Sounded like you were taking on air somewhere. Good troubleshooting! Glad you found it. Please follow-up with a review of pedal pressure, pics of valve cover clearance and such. Thanks for being on the bleeding edge of the MDL kit! The folks want to know about this kit.!

Sorry you are having such a problem. So this is the system with the master cylinder and a TOB (slave) that is in the bell housing, vice the external slave that pushes the clutch fork? It sure sounds like air is still getting in somewhere. What are used for the hose connections? AN fittings are...

I just seem to recall the screeching sound of the centri at idle...that is shit I don't like.

An affordable and unused procharger is the obvious choice. It also has its own oiler, which is sweet. The only thing I would hate is that sound, but I like strictly NA for myself...still I would take the procharger in a heartbeat.

As I understand it, the Whipples are good down low and run out at the higher RPMs, while the Centris need a bit to build up, then pull and pull the remaining RPMs. ???

Wow and ouch..$$$$..might be worth swapping over to 31 spline someday. Or Might be buying oem spares on eBay soon.

'99 or '01? You probably know this.. 99 has the 28 inner spline vs 31, so unless you covert the diffy you would need to shop 28 spline halfshafts. Which reminds me, I need to buy some used 99s, just to set them aside as spares. I plan to stay NA. No one talks about a beefier 28 spline...

Maybe get some replacement calipers for now and rebuild the cobra calipers at your leisure. It may be your chance to upgrade...$$

Big guess on my part....but gonna say....intermittent or temperature sensitive crank sensor failure..or crank wire-connector issue. Pull on the wires from the crank sensor connector.

There is-was also a guy selling on ebay.eBay. Also iirc there was an oring in the middle length of that stud....imo that design is too clever to keep on the car.

I use the German gut-and-tight method. Medium breaker bar with one-two fingers on the end. Short breaker bar with two-three fingers on the end. Warning: I am Philistine; however, I own an 2002 Audi A4 Quattro (B6) 3.slow MT6 with over 250k miles.. Also, if it doesn't stop leaking, just...

Yup..from what I understand, the Steeda cable is thinner and is pinched in the clutch cam. It eventually wears and breaks or stretches.

First time hearing that phrase..going to pocket that one along with.."the fifth spring" and "the pie tin."

FTBR: Full Tilt Boogie Racing FLSF: Full Length SubFrame (Vice just SFC: SubFrame Connectors)..Global West (old-school) or better Stifflers FLSF system. VERT: Convertible...

Yup, The vert top springs are spec'd to not shake the vert loose. The coupe springs with a FLSF on the vert should be fine. FTBR advises FLSF be installed on the verts.

There is a front spring install tool..you can google it.

I had a champion that eventually flexed and cracked. The mishimoto has that patented brace...just saying..

Our wives may not like the "mod fever," but at least it keeps us at home...