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https://www.eastwood.com/ew-radiator-black-12oz-satin-finish.html

I would have the bores checked for taper and wear. Then depending on the results, go with a hone or smallest overbore possible for your desired piston size and clearance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any updates? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Other then degreeing the cams, I also found building the engine very satisfying. Especially when it dynoed at 743 RWHP on 93 and Torco. I could not have afforded to buy the engine I built.

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I built the engine. My local NAPA machine shop did the machine work. They do a lot of circle track engines and followed my instructions to the letter. I went to Horsepower by Herman in MD for the the tune. He was very helpful when I had questions during the build. This was my first Mod Motor...

My tuner sent me a no boost break in tune after I built my engine. He asked me to put 1k miles on it before bringing it in for Dyno tuning. He only charged me the price of the new tuner. I’m not sure how other tuners handle it. I’d just see how yours wants to handle it. Sent from my iPhone...

Fit with the Stock K just fine. I had to modify the convertible brace. That won't be a problem unless you have a vert.

I had the Steeda version of the Borla system with the stock H and manifolds. People would come up to me years later and say it was one of the best sounding cars they ever heard.

I have a KB 2.8 H with similar mods as you are planning. Additionally, I have oversized valves and CNC ported heads. My custom cams are mild by comparison to others and all my emissions equipment and high flow cats are in place. It made 742 RWHP that way with 93 pump gas and Torco. I think you...

https://kennebell.net/tech/ford/cobra-2003-up-big-bore-32l-28l-26l-24l-22l-pulley-boost-ratio-hp-guide-14-mile/

Another vote for Spec 3+. You just have to learn it is on/off and not try to slip it in first. That eliminates the chatter. I have the Fidanzia aluminum flywheel with a replaceable steel insert.

Your pump will be fine. The other offers the use of a larger pick up tube that is capable of moving more oil with less restriction. I don't expect you will be at sustained high rpm. So, cavitation should not be an issue for your pump. It would be extra protection you won't need.

You could do that or the Melling M227 without the billet gears if you want to use the larger 15/16" pick up instead of the 13/16" pick up.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Melling-10227-High-Performance-Billet-Oil-Pump-Ford-4-6L-Cobra-Mustang-/185122008036?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the higher volume Cobra pump with billet gears and a cast iron case. It uses a 15/16 pick up. The description says it fits all 4.6 and 5.4 four valve engines. There is an open box one on eBay for $295. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have the Melling 10227 on mine.

Don't file the cams! I used a smaller jewelers file on my gears. I worked on the smaller gears directly attached to the cams: not the larger one attached to the crankshaft chain. I had to take it back apart multiple times to file the intake gear once the exhaust gear was done. So, each time the...

Yes you can set the LS and intake and exhaust centerlines. Stock gears have a keyway placement for the engine to have the stock centerline and lobe separation when installed normally. This means you may need to file the stock gears or get a set of adjustable gears to set the cams where you want...