Looking back through my wire diagrams you should check fuse F2.34 (20A) and fuse F1.26 (30A). F1 fuses are under the hood next to where the battery would be and F2 fuses are in the car above the clutch pedal. With key on you should see 12v on the red wire with harness unhooked from the COP. A...
Here is what I did and I installed mine in the return line so I didn’t have a restriction. I’m running a -10AN feed and -8AN return Edit- My sensor is also just for my own reference and doesn’t seem to be as accurate as when I test the fuel via test tube.
Here I was debating between a M/T SS and R888R for my next set of tires, this may give another option. As long as it should hook 2nd from a 40 I’d be happy, my 888’s ain’t up for it anymore.
There’s a inspection plate on the trans where the cable connects to the fork. The throw out bearing should be right at touching the fingers of the pressure plate but not have any preload pressure. You can do some adjusting with the firewall adjuster/quadrant which will change the release point...
It’s been awhile since I installed mine when I swapped over to a magnum but I remember really doing some clearance work on my fork and the pivot ball I think was a short as I could physically go and still get the fork to go on and that was just enough to not have pressure on the fingers...
Majority of their stuff does ship from China but they do have some locations in California. Quality wise I’ve only had two issues between 3 cars, one ballast failed which was under warranty and one high beam bulb (hardy ever used the high beams so that may have been why). My cobra ballasts and...
I’m not running a relay. I’m not sure that the line lock is too much current for the switch to handle, haven’t got to test it on the road yet cause I found another brake leak and need to re bleed. So far everything works, anyway I could find out if it’s too much current for the switch to handle?
Update, in case anyone finds this thread and has the same issue, I had to rewire the switch to control the power side of the line lock and not the ground side. So basically I took the Rd/blk wire to switched 12v and then the yellow wire to one connection on the line lock and the other connection...
Anyone have any ideas on what I might be missing? I tried swapping some of the wires around but still can’t get both lights and the valve to work at the same time
Hey guys long post
I just installed a Roush line lock in my 04 cobra while it was down getting some big brakes put on. I’m using a fog light switch out of a 94-98 mustang to control the on/off of the line lock. I preferred having something that looked factory and also got to get rid of the...
Have you checked what voltage the ecm is getting at the ecm? I’m wanting to say there was 3 inputs if memory serves. Then again I’d also double check to see what the alternator is putting out at the alternator just to help eliminate it being a possible culprit since multiple things are affected.
Me and a buddy flew from Virginia to El Paso to buy my mystichrome back in 2012. The owners lived in New Mexico and met us at the airport. Drove it all the way back to Virginia, never knew Texas was that big before then...
Behind the throttle body on the supercharger plenum. I’d also check your PCV lines, particularly the one that’s on the back of the blower. I know when I first got my car that line was almost tore in half where it was kinked and old. I never got a code for it that I remember.
Be aware that voltage at the battery could be in the 13s during WOT but that isn’t the voltage the pcm is seeing. I found my issue while doing remote tuning on my TVS, my tuner had stated I had a voltage issue getting to the pcm and I needed to be cautious when doing pulls as that meant the fuel...
I had similar issues with WOT voltage being low according to my SCT handheld but I have a volt gauge on my triple pillar that would show a different voltage, normally always higher. What fixed the issues for me was getting a high quality built alternator such as a Mechman, Nations, ect and...
I told them 6500 since I’m still stock engine and that’s redline. I normally shift around 6300 but I figured in redline for worst case scenario. I’m wanting to say mechman told me I would be around 21-22k alternator rpm and theirs is rated for 24k or something? I could be wrong but they didn’t...