Just ran at Roebling Road Raceway yesterday, and had no belt issues!! Spacing the lower pulley out fixed my issue!
Just to close the loop here in case someone finds this thread in the future, I used 1/4” grade 8 washers (they are the gold washers, it’s just what I had I doubt you actually need...
I will have to check the calibration. It was very challenging getting the tools on the pulleys in the same grooves for sure.
What did you do to fix your alignment?
Since I cannot figure out how to post the video, here are screenshots at RPM at the moment the belt pops over the top of the front of the lower pulley. Again, these are at RPM, it doesn’t look like this at idle or when it is not running.
Everything is new, or at the most on the car for only a year. I have 1mm spacers for the alternator pulley, but that would push the pulley the wrong way. I almost filed down in the alternator pulley to get it to move towards the engine, but I was afraid I would end up filing it crooked and jack...
I am back trying to figure out my belt issue. I made some short videos, but I cannot get them to post, so I will do my best to explain what I am seeing. When I rev the engine, I see the belt ride up onto and over the front of the lower pulley, and it immediately returns to be centered on the...
Ok, so no damage on any of the pulleys. I checked again with the laser and they are all aligned.
My current next attempt is to either cut down one of the damaged belts to maybe 6 ribs and re-install, or just install the belt with the undamaged side out and try to see with the fresh edge what...
Interesting, I have a PA performance alternator I installed as it came from them- ie I did not install any spacers. Maybe I need to look harder at the alternator?
I am continuing to tear up supercharger belts- IE: shred one rib off of the belt, and I am looking for input on what the cause may be. Here is what I have done/found so far:
Going back to the beginning of this issue was July of 2021 when I got home from the Dyno. I drove her home from the dyno...
I see everyone is recommending to fire it up, but I primed mine before starting when it sat for a couple years. Good to know it should have been fine either way.
These days I would be more worried about taking it to a shop and paying them and they do a sub standard job.
However, if you cannot weld the tailpipes in, the u bolts may cause clearance issues for you. I have the flowmaster cat back. I started out with the u bolts, but the u bolts scraped...
Installing the new balancer today.
I got the pulley puller and install tools from harbor freight. They are not something I would recommend if you would be using these tools frequently, but for once in a while they are fine.
You can see in the photos the bushings were definitely shot. Very...
Look for a rear main seal that resembles the OEM. The OEM rear main seal has a spring inside it that helps hold the seal against the crank. The national seal is a suitable replacement. The Fram rear main seal does not have the spring and it does not create a good seal and will leak.
I fabricated my through the floor subframe connectors, but I cannot tell you how the compare to the stifflers. I can say that if I had to do it again, I would likely go with the stifflers. The through the floor were a ton of work, and for me to admit that is saying something. I would...
I don’t have an exact number, but you are definitely not alone. I am very blessed with my wife, she is also a car nut and helps as much as she can in the garage. Since it has been a team build for us she is ok about the $$. It is still a lot, and it is tough sometimes, financially, mentally...