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6 years later this needs a resurrection lol

Guess I’ll throw an 18 manifold on it and see what happens. I want to hit 140 :D

Finally got my car back to the track. My old setup was a Paxton, E85, 3.33 pulley waste gated to 11psi (yellow slip). Last week, now with a built motor, 3.33 pulley and no waste gate (white slip). I gained just shy of 3/10ths but MPH was nearly identical, which I find weird. Also, I asked my...

They are definitely not Boss rods...I’ve seen mine on my 14 up close... Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

Nice. I had a red version of your car. It was fun to drive for what it was. I removed the white strips on the sides and it made it look infinitely better IMO. Yours looks good!

My 13 and my 14 both had the rear view mirror issues. Just stick an o-ring between the window and the plastic cover that is right by the window. Cut it and trim the extra length that hangs out, vibration gone.

I also vote GT500s. The 11-12 is a single tip and the 13-14 is quad tip. No drone at all, even with headers, off road x, and no resonators.

Another guy mentioned the air filter. I changed out the reusable one for a paper version (I can’t cant clean and oil the reusable ones correctly to save my life apparently). I went out for a data log and sure enough, load went back over 2 and the MAF maxed out. The weather was hot the first...

I had a kit that had a bunch of different o-rings in it. I changed out two of them with ones that weren’t thick enough. Probably won’t be back to the track anytime soon. Every time I go, I break something. Tired of replacing axles lol. The stock ones and Strange ones both bent on slicks. Just...

How do you know when the head units need a rebuild? Mine runs, isn’t terribly noisy, but when datalogging, my load and Maf lbs keep decreasing over time. I have a 3.48 pulley on it currently and load peaks around 1.55. It used to peak around 2.10. I also used to peg the Maf sensor, and now I do...

Mine was caused by two injector o-rings that were the wrong size. I did a boost leak test and sure enough, the same two cylinders I had misfires on were leaking air. Changed out the o-rings and the boost leaks are gone.

Loving my Mantic...

They are pretty overpriced. You could go to the store and buy a nylon block for $3-$4, then cut it to fit in the whole so the timing chain stays tight and can’t fall or skip a tooth on the sprocket. Took me about 5 minutes to do it.

Nah, you’re good. You mentioned the part about taking the air boxes off. I just went ahead and put the JLT back on. Missed my boost too much lol

I did it on my 2010 back in the day without doing anything except removing the valve covers. I made a wedge out of a plastic block to hold the timing chains in place.

The stock 3.6 part made me think Vortech.

Is the engine in the vehicle already?

Mine get so full of that cotton crap from the trees here. It takes hours to clean one. I just ordered the new paper version for the intake. I’m going to slap that on and just replace it when needed.

You have a Vortech head unit?

I haven’t always run the stock intake. I have the JLT one as well. I put the stock one back on because the JLT filter is a giant pain in the ass to clean.

How many pounds of boost do you see with the stock air intake? I thought I had belt slip so I changed from a 3.33 to a 3.48 pulley. The tensioner is pretty much topped out now with the 3.48 and the idler in the second from the left hole. I made a homemade boost leak tester and found that two of...

Glad to share. I spent 2 months trying to figure out why my fuel system wasn’t “working correctly” until I just bit the bullet and bought the JMS BAP. Installed that and all my problems went away...

Just installed a Fore dual 465 setup on a friend’s car today. It didn’t have anything extra. No controller. He already had VMP fuel rails. Minus some wiring, it’s pretty simple.

It’s a pain in the ass, but getting them not to hit things is doable. I spent 4 hours this past weekend just changing angles and tightening clamps certain ways just to get everything to clear the radiator. Make sure those clamps are TIGHT. The pipe by the head unit should be moving much, if at...

I used a return system setup, at the recommendation of AED, that uses the GT350 pumps and hat modified to work in a return system. It’s not good for 1000hp on E85. It’s good for about 750 on E85. I’m guessing the 1,000hp is referring to gasoline or race gas. I added a JMS GT350 BAP to my setup...