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Have you checked the harmonic balancer? Seems like you have an out of balance issue in the rotating assembly if it does it while not in gear or moving. Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

+1 for Continental Elite Belts. Summit Racing sells them too. Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Michelin Pilot Super Sport is the only tire I'd buy, except for maybe Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2's Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Freeze them and use a rubber mallet. Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

If you have the original to copy these guys can make one in any size you want: www.autospecialties.com Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

I've used a Chinese clone one from EBay with no issues. I've reprogrammed PATS and programmed an additional key for a couple of cars.... Worked fine. Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

^This.... Do ALL the bushings while it's out. You'll be glad you did. Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Since the pulley is already bent, just cut it off. I can't imagine you're going to try and reuse that one. Get a cut-off wheel and start grinding... Go slow as you get near the shaft and when it gets close it might just pop off since it seems to be under some pretty good tension. Even if...

Heat the pulley... (it's bent now anyway) All around as even as possible. Not glowing hot... Just enough to make spit sizzle... It shouldn't take long with a propane touch because the pulley is aluminum. Then hurry and use the puller before the heat transfers to the shaft. Sent from my...

Here's the part numbers for the stud and nut as well as the source for the key stock: Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Keyway and stud mod: Close up: Finished install: Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

For some reason I can't post the link to the thread(s) . It's over on the Modular Fords Forums. There's a few threads about it, one of them is under "Aluminator Gibtec Build" thread. Ed Schaider and JRGoffin can answer any questions you may have about this. Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Here's the visual comparison of the ARP stud mod, versus the ARP bolt, versus the stock crank bolt. Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

When you rebuild you should drill the crank snout all the way back to the #1 bearing. Use a 4.75" to 5.25" long 9/16" diameter, ARP stud (length depends on damper), the ARP 1/4" thick damper washer, and the corresponding ARP nut. Torque to 150 to 180 Ft. Lbs. Now all the load is transferred...