JeremyH, yes you are correct it is the evap purge line. I wasn't for sure if this had to come off while installing a return style system.
I was sent this link when I asked this question elsewhere.
https://lmr.com/item/M9424M50BR-HDW/2011-12-Mustang-Boss-302-Intake-Installation-Kit
So i finally decided to start on installing my return fuel system. I came across a few questions while installing that I hope someone can help me with.
First a few things about the car. It's a 14 and has the boss manifold.
So I see a "fuel line" going to the front drivers side of the manifold...
I recently purchased some 28x10.5 Mickey Thompsons for the rear of my car. Do I need to have a 28" diameter front tire to match the rear.
This will be a for the drag strip.
Thanks in advance
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Thanks for the feedback everyone.
Riddick, I actually had a 4'x8' trailer for a mower in my back drive and was told i had to get rid of it. Some of the rules HOA's have are insane. It's one of those "wish i known that before the purchase type deal".
Hope everyone had a great holiday season!
I'm wanting to get a open car hauler for taking my 14gt to the strip.
My problem is that I live in a subdivision and the HOA rules don't allow trailers outside. I know nothing about trailers and looking for one that will work safely with the car and yet...
KP_510, I have a new one from Paxton sitting in a box. Not sure if it leaks because i never installed it. your more than welcome to have it if you pay shipping.
Gruca, are you having belt slip using the 3.33 pulley? There's talk that the 3.6 pulley will see the same boost level. Of course it won't see it as soon.
How does the tial bov sound?
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So I'm finally getting around to install my fore stage 2 dual return kit. Have a question for you. The two small black wires on top of the hat I assume are for the level sensor. What do I connect to these wires?
14 gt thanks in advance, Kenny.
pualyboy928
I believe the m50a1 is compatible with the 13-14 without a harness change.
11-12 I think needs a newer harness. If you google the part number and go to Fords site, it explains what is needed.
I was thinking the same considering when the clutch pedal is pressed it stops. But I wonder what could be causing the clutch to do so if that's what it is?
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I don't take long rides in the car but if i happen to get on the interstate for 30 minutes or so it really gets to the ears.
Thanks for the responses so far.
Hey everyone, I have this horrible "echo" sound around 45mph and above. This noise never occurred before these mods.
Upper control arm and bracket (polly adj)
Lower control arms (polly nonadj)
Adj panhard bar
1.5" lowering springs on all 4 corners
RXT clutch
Sound goes away once clutch pedal is...
Not with the number that I gave. That's a drop and go motor made specifically for the 11-14
Still have to do opg and cs though
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Fore innovations make great systems from what I've read. I currently have one but have yet to install it. I went with the dual pump stage 2. If I were to purchase again I'd go with the fc3 controller so I could run a Hobbs switch. I bought the fc2 before I did my research.
Going with this system...
How soon you needing the block? I haven't 100% decided on pulling mine yet to replace with an aluminator block. If I do I will have one that currently has 6,900 miles on it. I live in Lafayette IN.
I've been reading about the talk of the 15 block being used on the 11-14's. I haven't found where anyone has tried it.
Has anyone accomplished this task and if so can you give the curious any insight on what all was done to do so?