I have ARH LT's on mine and I don't think they could have been any easier. No weird snaking around either steering shaft or starter as some others do. I'm very happy with the way they turned out with a very noticeable performance gain. I did mine on jackstands so doing yours on a lift will go...
I also changed my K and had the same problem. I later added a Laguna Seca splitter and a pair of Trackspec hood vents which completely fixed the problem. Just another avenue if you choose.
I had the same problem when I did mine until I saw a trick on GearzTV and got it. With a BFH ( I used a 3 lb hammer) and give the clamping area a good solid whack until the LCA just falls free. It'll take a pretty big whack so try not to miss. I didn't know about the tool either.
I had the same issue when I changed mine out. The socket method as you tried won't work. You need to hold the shaft by at the top. The OEM strut for mine had a hex pattern so just hold with wrench and then loosen the nut with another wrench. If I remember, it wasn't real tight. Happy Wrenching!
First off, expect every response to be different and conflicting...but here's mine:
1. E85-Pricey and depends on your fuel source. I have no knowledge other than that.
2. LT headers-My pick by far. I think you'll notice a real nice power & torque boost across the power band. It will however...
I put E3's in my daily beater Toyota Echo about 6 years ago. One plug failed a few years ago and replaced it in hopes that it's just a fluke. Just a couple years later now, I have 2 failed. That's more than 50% failure rate under very easy conditions. I won't be putting them in the coyote.
To my knowledge, most aftermarket swaybars other than the BMR SB042 use the same stock mount and require the sway relo bracket IF you are running 15x10 wheels. You really need not be concerned about the swaybar relo bracket, it's a pretty much no-brainer to install. The important thing is to...
The 15x10s will require cutting the lower portion of the orig swaybar mount and only require the sb relo brackets if you're running the stock rear swaybar. The BMR swaybar mounts to the inside of the rear control arms so the swaybar relo not required "for the BMR swaybar".
The only drag wheel that I know of requiring relo brackets is a 15X10. The relo bracket is for the stock rear swaybar and not needed with the BMR. The SB042 will work with or without the "control arm" relo brackets. I just picked up the SB042 myself, but waiting for garage to be a bit warmer...
Recommend you check out VMP video comparing manifolds. The point I took away was that both the boss and CJ manifolds will give you a nice power increase at 6K-7500 RPM with the CJ being the star. You will also LOSE hp & tq at low-mid RPM from stock. Being a CA DD, I would stay with stock...
I can't speak from first hand experience, so I will throw out my opinion based on tons of research I have done. If it conflicts with other opinions, then take for what it is worth:
1. Yes, you will certainly free up more power, especially with your boosted setup. At the same time your boost...
I did mine 2 yrs. ago and had the same question at the time. It seemed to me to add the dust boot and the bump stop from your FRPP jounce kit. It's gotta help.
I think it's possible you could have went the wrong way with your bump steer kit. I have nearly identical setup with no problems. Looking at your front end at ride height, the steering arms should be very near parallel with the A arms.