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Not sure, just sold however

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For sale is an SCT X3 tuner, unlocked/unmarried with 3 unlocks. $125 shipped USPS Priority

Went ahead and ordered a different one on ebay that is confirmed that style plug and 3 bar. Seller even put the reference volts for psi in increments. I'll wire that in when I get it and report back. Good chance this sensor is just a junk/1bar one. Edit: I think I was able to finally wrap my...

I may have just realized what the issue is, this may not be a "3 bar" sensor, looks like a generic MAP sensor, could be a 1 bar or 2 bar, however others that look identical on amazon ARE listed as 3 BAR... Still doesn't make sense that it would read 5v when the car is off unless the sensors are...

Affirmative. It's a 3 BAR knock-off GM replacement, the part number matches the GM/ACDelco part. See amazon link. Suppose I could order another and swap it out, the pigtail is already wired in. Actually I can't, looks like the pigtails on most of the GM ones are male pigtail and female on...

Hey guys, I’m having an issue with a newly installed 3 BAR MAP sensor reading incorrect values in Live Link, reading super high and pegging out. Using analog 2 on the firewire (red) as my wideband is on analog 1 (orange). The setup is: Boost line teed off from factory yellow boost line in...

Hopefully this is all it will be. I almost changed the engine coolant last year.. Glad I waited now I have a good excuse to do it haha. They are the original, 18 year old gaskets that have been through a lot of cold winters and heat cycles.

Yeah I've tried that before when I had a very slow oil leak and it solved it, this seems to be a different spot. The oil was leaking at the junction of the oil cooler to the motor, this seems to be further outwards towards the filter.

Hey guys, Noticed a few days ago there was some fluid leaking under my car. It's been put away for the winter, and we recently had some absolutely frigid weather here, as low as -10 F. I noticed the fluid right after this cold blast. Finally did some preliminary diagnosing, and it appears to...

I did that trick to make sure the switch was working, and success. Everything is rewired and seems to be functioning as expected. Inertia switch works again. I reinstalled the FPDM and soldered a wire into the BK/PN (black w/ purple stripe) wire and I use that as my trigger wire. Is that how...

That's what I was thinking, how on earth could that switch run power through it if it is popped? Something must be wired backwards or the switch is bad. I'm not sure how I would go about testing the switch. I could run a resistance/ohms test on it somehow but I'm just not that savvy with...

Also, how are you guys running your primary remote pump power? Mine is off the inertia switch. As I described earlier, my inertia switch works in reverse so if you push the button to reset it the car shuts off and if you whack it with a hammer and pop it, everything runs. I want to fix this, I...

It was a combination of that and "I can't believe I've been driving on 1 pump for 4 damn years". I just ordered my Hobbs switch. Justin sent me a PDF file of how they recommend wiring it. Basically solder one of the wires from the Hobbs to your 12-volt power wire for your primary remote one...

Will do! So relieved... Same here. Albeit frustrating, considering I just spent another $250 on new pumps for no reason, but I guess it's a good refresh to do and gives me even more capacity. Hopefully my alternator holds... I wanted to throw myself down the stairs a few times so dumb! Next...

I FIGURED IT OUT! For ALL of these years, I never had a jumper between the Remote 1 and Remote 2 ports on the FC3 controller. I never thought this could be a cause as I've made as much as 700+ before on ONE GSS 342!!! I haven't driven the car yet, but I can definitely hear both pumps screaming...

So this is logged with the PID "Pressure drop across injectors" which I believe is always supposed to show 39 psi, which it does at WOT (initially). I have a gauge in the car that measures FRP with a 1/8 NPT port right on the rail on the passenger side, and that does go up when you get into...

That's a good question. IDK how, but fore may know. I can email them to get their input. However, how would the regulator know it's at the "top" end? Isn't it just responsible for maintaining a certain pressure regardless of everything else? In other words, do you think it would bleed pressure...

Thanks for the reply. I think that's a reasonable assumption, I'm leaning towards electrical as well, due to the other components not being near limitations. I was thinking the fuel filter being a culprit, but it's only been like 6000 miles since I installed that beefy 88mm fore unit. I can't...

Hey guys… Sorry for the long post but I believe all this information below is necessary in diagnosing my issue: I’m having a hell of a time trying to figure out what is wrong with my fuel system. I was at the dyno three weeks ago, made about 660 SAE which is about where the car usually is...

Thanks for the reply. So I called AEM and asked them, figured why not. Spoke with Caleb, and he really knew his stuff. First, he pointed out the new 30-0300 X-series are no longer using the (v*2)+10 formula, and now use (2.3750 * Volts) + 7.3125. This basically solved my problem. However, I'll...

Hey fellas, I've been digging all over the google trying to figure out how to determine what my voltage offset is. I just wired the firewire cable for SCT x4. I used these instructions: Connect AEM White to SCT Orange | Connect AEM Black to Vehicle Ground and SCT BLUE I fired up live link...

Maybe I'll use em for a nice long burnout haha

Awesome. Thanks for your input.