01 Cobra...school me please on mods to get 700 hp

Hlistr_07RR

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So I have an 01 Cobra. Eventually I would like to put a KB on it, and get mid 400's rwhp. I've been told the stock engines hold up to about 430ish rwhp before you need to build the internals. Keep in mind, I don't know much about modding at all, besides the easy stuff like CAI, gears etc. What exactly would I need to do to the engine to get say high 500's rwhp. What about high 600, or 700?

Cost effectively, if I wanted higher numbers, should I just swap my engine out for an 03/04, or build mine? What would be cheaper in the long run? Again, keep in mind I'm a n00b when it comes to stuff like this. I recently bought a house, so I won't be doing anything major to the engine for a bit, but I'd like to start serious mods in a year or 2. Just trying to get an idea, I've seen numerous sigs of 01 cobras in the high 600's rwhp here, and I'm trying to glean some technical knowledge.

Thanks!
 

fs308

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build bottom end add turbo port heads

im sure thats a good start
 

Hlistr_07RR

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Lol ok, I'm looking for detailed explanations preferably, and ballpark figures for if I go different routes. I'd like to know what I'm saving towards, it helps me save. How much is it to build the bottom end? Is it easier/cheaper to just rip my engine out, sell it and put an 03/04 engine in?
 

01Cobra896

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http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/new-edge-cobras-51/180943-all-you-looking-blowers-forged-internals.html
Start by reading that. I hope you have VERY deep pockets because you are talking about spending a ton of money to get anywhere past 500rwhp and do it reliably. Plan at least $3K for the shortblock, $4K+ for a supercharger or $5K+ for turbo, fuel system will need upgrades among other things. That does not even factor in the cost of doing this safely, full length subframe connectors, better brakes, rear diff rebuild, blown trans.......

There are a lot of threads on here of different types of builds. Do your research and figure out what would work best for you.

BTW, my motor survived at 440hp/tq for about a year without any issues until I decided to go on Nurburgring and race some motorcycles. I fuel washed the cylinder walls, no mechanical failure at that hp/tq level. Heart transplant will be complete this weekend.
 

01greycobra

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It's gonna be expensive. You are going to need to build your motor. You can figure for a shortblock anywhere from $3k to $7k depending on what/who you go with. Don't forget about getting it installed either. That will probably run around $2-$2.5k. Power adder. You have options here but if you are looking to break 700 best way would probably be a turbo. A NEW turbo kit can retail for about $7k. Your transmission will never be able to handle the power so getting it either rebuilt or going with a different built trans altogether. I spent $4k on my T-56 and getting it built and installed. Rear- at 700rwhp, just go solid axle. Build up a stout 8.8 or even a 9 inch. This will probably end up running in the $2k range as well. Fuel system! For arguments sake lets say you decide to get a complete return style system. Thats about $2.5k. Add in $ for all misc parts (gaskets, bolts, etc) and labor needed for everything. Don't forget a good tune! You are looking probably at a very MINIMUM $20,000 to get it to be both safe and reliable 700hp car. Start saving!
 

wals9331

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1) Put "For Sale" sign in window of 01 cobra.

2) Buy a shelby Gt500 and start modding.

All joking aside...its sad but it might actually be cheaper to go this way....
 

cobraracer46

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A vortech T trim can flow enough air to make 700 rear wheel horsepower on a 2001 cobra.

I am almost done with a Vortech T trim aftercooled Project on my 2001 Cobra and even though I bought all of the Vortech parts used, a 2004 Cobra tank and duel pump set up used and new 60 pound Ford racing injectors, new Lightning 90 MM maf, New Diablosport MAFIA and other new parts, I'm just north of $3000 and that is with me doing all of the work and fabrication.


For now the short block will remain stock, but when the time comes to rebuild it, I will do all of the work myself except of course the machining.

Other mega buck stuff I have done to my car to handle the power:
t56 viper trans swap kit $4100 with me doing the install.

Frame kit and rollbar $1700 for the parts. I performed all the welding and labor.

The bottom line is that if you cant do all or most of the work yourself and score some good used parts along the way for your 700RWHP project, you will spend a ton of money. As a new home owner, now having to deal with a mortgage, you should give some serious thought to the astronomical cost this 700rwhp project could cost you.

Just like some one else said, it would be easier just to go out and buy a Shelby GT500 or a 2003-2004 Terminator Cobra and call it a day.
 

CobraRed01

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cobraracer46...are you shooting for 700hp on stock rods and pistons?? (Sounds like it with $4k in a viper trans. ) If she let's go will there even be enough to rebuild???
 

cobraracer46

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cobraracer46...are you shooting for 700hp on stock rods and pistons?? (Sounds like it with $4k in a viper trans. ) If she let's go will there even be enough to rebuild???

No, right now the plan is to be south of 700 HP so For the time being, My Cobra's power output will probably be somewhere around 550 rear wheel Horsepower. As long as detonation is kept out of the picture and the RPMS are kept within reason, then the stock short block will surviving at 550 rear wheel HP. :burnout:
 

97desertCobra

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No, right now the plan is to be south of 700 HP so For the time being, My Cobra's power output will probably be somewhere around 550 rear wheel Horsepower. As long as detonation is kept out of the picture and the RPMS are kept within reason, then the stock short block will surviving at 550 rear wheel HP. :burnout:

:lol: Oh thats a good one! While it has happened for a few, and I mean very few, that does not mean it will happen for you. Chances are it will let go on the dyno. And the T-trim probably wont support 700+rwhp without over spinning the blower. It should be able to support 600rwhp but 700 is a bit of a stretch. A YSI would be better suited for 700rwhp.
 

BlackVenom99

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I agree with a ysi being needed for big power.
After reading through Corky Bells books, I tend to think that it is entirely possible to make as much as double the stock output on stock internals. The way he explains the power load on the rods, bearings, and pistons, under normal operation( ie:no detonation) rpm's will wipe out a shortblock before boost/power levels.
 

97desertCobra

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It's gonna be expensive. You are going to need to build your motor. You can figure for a shortblock anywhere from $3k to $7k depending on what/who you go with. Don't forget about getting it installed either. That will probably run around $2-$2.5k. Power adder. You have options here but if you are looking to break 700 best way would probably be a turbo. A NEW turbo kit can retail for about $7k. Your transmission will never be able to handle the power so getting it either rebuilt or going with a different built trans altogether. I spent $4k on my T-56 and getting it built and installed. Rear- at 700rwhp, just go solid axle. Build up a stout 8.8 or even a 9 inch. This will probably end up running in the $2k range as well. Fuel system! For arguments sake lets say you decide to get a complete return style system. Thats about $2.5k. Add in $ for all misc parts (gaskets, bolts, etc) and labor needed for everything. Don't forget a good tune! You are looking probably at a very MINIMUM $20,000 to get it to be both safe and reliable 700hp car. Start saving!

x2. It gets expensive fast. You will save some $$$ if you can perform some of the labor. Turbo would probably be the easiest way to get 700rwhp. You can get 700rwhp with a Vortech YSI, or Procharger F1A but those kits new are just as expensive when you compare to say a Hellion single 76mm kit. Same goes with a Whipple 3.4 with Crusher inlet or KB with the Mammoth inlet, both those kits can net 700rwhp with a built 4.6L.

Your heads are good but they could use a good port job, not a crazy "stage 3 race port" but a good clean up. Your stock cams can support well over 700rwhp so you should keep them IMO, I will be keeping mine in my rebuild. Your block is strong enough and so is your crank. Rods, pistons, gaskets, seals, rings and bearings all need to be replaced and in many places upgraded to stronger components. Also up grade your oil pump to a stronger unit, Melling makes a good pump. 01greycobra covered it really well so there isn't too much to add.
 

97desertCobra

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1) Put "For Sale" sign in window of 01 cobra.

2) Buy a shelby Gt500 and start modding.

All joking aside...its sad but it might actually be cheaper to go this way....

^^^^could be. Or get an 03-04 Cobra with light mods and keep your eye on the market section for a used Hellion single kit.

OR sell your car and buy a car that is already done. Everyone takes a huge hit when they sell their built cars. I've seen 700rwhp 96-98 Cobra's go for well under 15k in the market section and they all had over 20k in mods alone.
 

Hlistr_07RR

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Thanks for all the advice guys. I don't want 700s right now, but I think if I had that, id be about as high as I wanna go. For now, 400s or 500s would be fine with me. I'm just trying to think of the future. I have entertained going turbo, but I'm even less knowledgeable when it comes to those. I like the idea of having instantaneous power too. So I can basically go to about 430ish before I have to touch the internals?
 

na svt

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I agree with a ysi being needed for big power.
After reading through Corky Bells books, I tend to think that it is entirely possible to make as much as double the stock output on stock internals. The way he explains the power load on the rods, bearings, and pistons, under normal operation( ie:no detonation) rpm's will wipe out a shortblock before boost/power levels.

Good luck with that!

It depends on the strentgh of the internals.
 

dadro77

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No, right now the plan is to be south of 700 HP so For the time being, My Cobra's power output will probably be somewhere around 550 rear wheel Horsepower. As long as detonation is kept out of the picture and the RPMS are kept within reason, then the stock short block will surviving at 550 rear wheel HP. :burnout:



Hate to bust your bubble, but that wont happen. 430-450 rwhp max. If you have a built block ready, go for it. Mine popped at only 475 rwtq...
 

BlackVenom99

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Good luck with that!

It depends on the strentgh of the internals.

Don't get me wrong I'm doing a fully forged shortblock.
But I do have to ask, in which stroke of the engines rotation are you saying the strength of the internals needs to increase. You've made a statement In which I read to say "the internals could never live at the increased power levels"
I think for arguments sake that these motors in controlled environments with the proper fuel, could easily live at higher than average power levels.
 

na svt

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Don't get me wrong I'm doing a fully forged shortblock.
But I do have to ask, in which stroke of the engines rotation are you saying the strength of the internals needs to increase. You've made a statement In which I read to say "the internals could never live at the increased power levels"
I think for arguments sake that these motors in controlled environments with the proper fuel, could easily live at higher than average power levels.

Under perfect conditions a stock engine could could live than average power, but the stock Hypereutectic pistons and powder metal rods will not live for long at double the stock hp: 320hp*2=640/15%(drivetrain loss)=544rwhp.
 
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