Can you log PID's with the scan tool? Or just check codes?. Ltft-Long term fuel trims is a pid, live data like rpm or maf and such. If you cant I'd suggest buying one for atleast future issues. Theres alot of options out there these days for cheap
03 Cobra missing, backfiring, and sputtering below 3k Rpms. Need Avice
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I only messed with it for twenty minutes or so but it seemed to me I could only look up codes. I'll look into a better set-up, thanks.
You can buy a cheap elm327 obd connector and use free sofware off the internet like torque app or forscan to be able to see that ($25 and up). You can also buy higher end hand held readers that you can view live data in the $100+ range anything above that should be able to view it and also check srs and abs with ford specific functions like cylinder balance test and such
Alright I definitely need to invest in something. Thanks keek.
Update: Started the car today after cleaning the MAF, was running rough and backfiring like usual. Unplugged the MAF and plugged it back in and it got rid of the backfiring. Took it on a short cruise but the wideband was reading 10.5 to 12.5 just cruising, usually staying at 11.5 to 12. Obviously the car is running incredibly rich. Any ideas where to start? Should I replace the MAF and see what happens? I'd hate to pay for a new one and that not be the problem.
I suggest, as many have said, to just take it to a tuner. There are too many variables that on a "new to me" car is are to risky. I'd much rather take it to a shop I trust and have them go over the tune and assure me that things are right and its running how it should, before getting into boost. Its a lot cheaper to have the tune checked/revised than rebuilding the engine.
The sure way to know if the maf is not reading properly is by viewing the data. Or like chersch7604 said. A tuner will be able to view that data and look over the tune to make sure its good. Or buy a scanner that can view live data. Maf should be 5-6 grams/second at idle all the way up to 450+ at wot roughly
One way or the other.....get a datalog to a reputable tuner. Either drive and work with someone in person....or do it remotely with email. You must have a properly functioning wideband with datalog capability....and preferably a fresh sensor. This is far cheaper than a rebuild! And you'll get that drivability like factory stock.
Thanks for the support and advice guys. I'm going to listen to everyone and stop messing with it at this point. Going to get a good datalog like suggested and let it sit until mid June to get a proper tune and going over. I'll come back with the results to let everyone know what was the issue exactly. Thanks all.
Well, cylinder #2 had zero compression.. pretty sure I found the culprit haha. Took me a while to find a decent compression tester to use, just wish I would of did it from the start. Thanks everyone for the support and advice.
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