1993 4-cyl. To v8 302 swap, eye candy! ;)

Mnstr50

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NICE^^ now you need to put a blower on it for sure or spray the shit out of it:pepper:

LMAO! Numbers are lower than I anticipated, but I'm going to look into a few more mods before going nitrous or blower. The temp and DA was ridiculous too (crappy air).

4.10's are in the mail. Off road x-pipe after October (need to pass emissions first).

I want to build the trans first, but I know it's going to be a $3,000 endeavor (stall, trans, valve body, etc).
 

Mnstr50

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At least I can safely say these are honest numbers with a H/C/I, with stock air-box, and stock cats through an AOD.
 

Mnstr50

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First run (not really a baseline, as some adjustments had already been made):

Horsepower-

190hp

IMG_3728_zps741aaa8c.jpg


Torque-

233tq

IMG_3729_zpsd01f3a66.jpg


Temperature and dyno conditions at first run

upper left hand corner

IMG_3730_zps6876832a.jpg


4th run- Horsepower 221rwhp

IMG_3731_zps2d9c6ef9.jpg


4th run- Torque 268rwhp

IMG_3733_zps894e95a4.jpg


temp. and conditions at 4th run

upper left corner

IMG_3732_zps39dbb452.jpg
 

SVTORANGE

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It's ok, I've come to terms that it's weak! lol...

LMFAO - All good it's running

I need to get the AC bracket delete and Power Steering pump bracket for my car now:( the previous owner rigged some shit up and now i just noticed battery light on so I need another alternator
 

Mnstr50

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haha.... it's a strange transition going from a 600+rwhp blown corvette to an NA notch. "But", I can say, I'm enjoying it! lol...

I have to upgrade to the 3G alternator and harness myself. after that, I might go with an electric fan. However, those aren't priority right now.
 

SVTORANGE

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Got the Alternator changed and it runs awesome - just found the left caliper is sticking and not working properly :>(

Got to figure out how to bump tires out like that of the COBRA! Truely hoping I dont have to swap spindles
 

Mnstr50

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Got the Alternator changed and it runs awesome - just found the left caliper is sticking and not working properly :>(

Got to figure out how to bump tires out like that of the COBRA! Truely hoping I dont have to swap spindles

I might not be interpreting your idea of moving the tires out? Do you mean out-board? If so, you won't need to touch the spindles. Just get some hub-centric spacers. Something like 5-10mm spacers. Anything more than that, it's almost mandatory to get longer wheel studs. I ran ARP's longer studs on my previous cars when using a QUALITY spacer (key word, quality).
 

SVTORANGE

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I might not be interpreting your idea of moving the tires out? Do you mean out-board? If so, you won't need to touch the spindles. Just get some hub-centric spacers. Something like 5-10mm spacers. Anything more than that, it's almost mandatory to get longer wheel studs. I ran ARP's longer studs on my previous cars when using a QUALITY spacer (key word, quality).

The spindle on the 04 COBRA and control arm bumps tire out to match that of the IRS meaning when you look down the side of car the front and rear tires are straight versus the front tire sitting in further than the rear

Hope that makes better sense.
 

Mnstr50

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The spindle on the 04 COBRA and control arm bumps tire out to match that of the IRS meaning when you look down the side of car the front and rear tires are straight versus the front tire sitting in further than the rear

Hope that makes better sense.

Ohhhh. I actually forgot that you're also running an IRS. So, for the sake of clarification, are your concerns regarding the front spindle/hub assembly? (trying to not get too side tracked on this thread).

I used the fox lower control arms (which you're suppose to use SN95 lower ball joints when doing the swap) with the SN95 spindle. I'm not sure if this is why my front tire package actually "tucks" under the fender, in relation to running an SN95 or new-edge lower control arm (which I believe push the wheel outward slightly).

The rear of my car has the sn95 specific axles, so the wheels sit outboard about 3/4" on each side (looks better in terms of filling in the wheel well with factory wheels), but will restrict me in wheel width options down the road (possibly). There is a vendor who offers a fox-correct rear axle package (this applies to the solid-axle rear-end of course) that retains the SN95 brakes, but moves the wheel back inward to the original position (3/4" in this case).
 

Mnstr50

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As for an update, I've now ordered the 31 spline FRPP differential with the (sn95) 31 spline axles. I wanted to keep it "budget" oriented for the differential build, but the cost to rebuild the stock 28 spline diff is almost as much as getting a new 31 spline anyway. So at that point, the only additional cost is really the axles. Anyway, once these parts come in, I'll get the rear-end built with the 4.10's as well.
 

SVTORANGE

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As for an update, I've now ordered the 31 spline FRPP differential with the (sn95) 31 spline axles. I wanted to keep it "budget" oriented for the differential build, but the cost to rebuild the stock 28 spline diff is almost as much as getting a new 31 spline anyway. So at that point, the only additional cost is really the axles. Anyway, once these parts come in, I'll get the rear-end built with the 4.10's as well.

:beer::beer:
 

Mnstr50

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The 4.10's are in. The original gear set in the car was, in fact, 2.73's. The shop who did the install, told me to give it 500 miles before getting on it. But I can tell you now, that the engine speed at 40mph is 1,500rpm. The engine speed at 80mph is 3,000rpm! It's keeping the engine in the meat of the power band, but I'll have a better impression after break in.
 

SVTORANGE

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The 4.10's are in. The original gear set in the car was, in fact, 2.73's. The shop who did the install, told me to give it 500 miles before getting on it. But I can tell you now, that the engine speed at 40mph is 1,500rpm. The engine speed at 80mph is 3,000rpm! It's keeping the engine in the meat of the power band, but I'll have a better impression after break in.

You will love how snappy that car will be, that is a huge difference going from 2.73's to 4.10's WOW
 

Mnstr50

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You will love how snappy that car will be, that is a huge difference going from 2.73's to 4.10's WOW

Ya, the 2.73's in these cars don't do the car justice. I haven't really gotten on it yet, but It's been A LOT easier to get onto traffic (on ramps). At part throttle I was doing 80 before I knew it! lol...

I will say that for a true daily-driver, in AZ this might be too short of a gear (tons of highway driving, at least for me). I don't mind it, and it's staying for now, but I also might have to step down (numerically) if/when I decide to go with a power adder. I think the "sweet spot" will be 3.27 or something similar.

It's so outrageously hot in AZ right now, it's not even worth taking a trip to the track, but I'm curious to find out what she does with the current combo.

I also got the SN95 brake booster and SN95 master cylinder installed, that made a big difference! (previous combo was an SN95 master, with a fox V8 booster).
 

SVTORANGE

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Ya, the 2.73's in these cars don't do the car justice. I haven't really gotten on it yet, but It's been A LOT easier to get onto traffic (on ramps). At part throttle I was doing 80 before I knew it! lol...

I will say that for a true daily-driver, in AZ this might be too short of a gear (tons of highway driving, at least for me). I don't mind it, and it's staying for now, but I also might have to step down (numerically) if/when I decide to go with a power adder. I think the "sweet spot" will be 3.27 or something similar.

It's so outrageously hot in AZ right now, it's not even worth taking a trip to the track, but I'm curious to find out what she does with the current combo.

I also got the SN95 brake booster and SN95 master cylinder installed, that made a big difference! (previous combo was an SN95 master, with a fox V8 booster).

Funny as the old route you had I am doing now I see I have to order new short lines from master to the proportioning valve. Also ordering brake adjuster to adjust pressure as well.

I am going with 355 gears from the 410 next that should be perfect with the IRS setup
 

Mnstr50

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Funny as the old route you had I am doing now I see I have to order new short lines from master to the proportioning valve. Also ordering brake adjuster to adjust pressure as well.

I am going with 355 gears from the 410 next that should be perfect with the IRS setup

3.55 is a great gear. Also, Maximum Motorsports makes a nice kit, regardless of which booster you use. However, the SN95 booster has more surface area (per the larger diameter).

I initially ordered the cobra master cylinder, but before installing it, I realized the diameter is actually smaller than the GT/v6 AND the thread is different between the cobra and GT/v6! MM makes a different hardline kit depending on which master you elect.
 

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