$2,000 for forged 2v?

luke1333

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Alright one of my friends has a built 89 saleen with trick flow heads pp, bored out block, forged pistons and rods and making 400ish hp na. I am looking for kenne bell maybe this year or next depending on what supporting mods i do but he said for $2,000 we could forge my motor and be really ready to drop power in it. Said probably $1,500 would buy forged rods and new pistons and do the install ourselves. Is he crazy or is this possible? :shrug:


my engine is 2v 4.6 bone stock
 

I8URLS1

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All the little stuff ads up man. I actually have a freshly built shortblock like what you are looking for. It has stock crank, Eagle H beams w/ ARP bolts, Mahle forged pistons, ARP main studs, new Cobra High Volume pump and pickup, oil pan and a freshly turned flywheel. I am selling it for $1800 + shipping and that is a steal for this thing. Balancing, gaskets, ARP hardware and all ads up in a hurry.
 

luke1333

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All the little stuff ads up man. I actually have a freshly built shortblock like what you are looking for. It has stock crank, Eagle H beams w/ ARP bolts, Mahle forged pistons, ARP main studs, new Cobra High Volume pump and pickup, oil pan and a freshly turned flywheel. I am selling it for $1800 + shipping and that is a steal for this thing. Balancing, gaskets, ARP hardware and all ads up in a hurry.

Man that is a good deal but I'd rather build my own nothing personal. I'd probably have about that in parts in mine though lol

Why you selling?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2
 

I8URLS1

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It is an extra shortblock I have, I already have a fully built teksid 5.0 stroker going in my car. You will probably have at least that in parts and then the balancing, line hone, cleaning of block, new oil pump, etc.
 

luke1333

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It is an extra shortblock I have, I already have a fully built teksid 5.0 stroker going in my car. You will probably have at least that in parts and then the balancing, line hone, cleaning of block, new oil pump, etc.
where is a link to yours at?
 

Blkkbgt

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If you are not planning on making over 600 at the crank then ditch the idea of a completely forged SB. I say this because the cast crank is plenty capable of handling that kind of HP as long as you dont try and shift at 7k rpms.

Simply get a quality set of rods, pistons, rings and bearings. Have the block machined and enjoy.
 

I8URLS1

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If you are not planning on making over 600 at the crank then ditch the idea of a completely forged SB. I say this because the cast crank is plenty capable of handling that kind of HP as long as you dont try and shift at 7k rpms.

Simply get a quality set of rods, pistons, rings and bearings. Have the block machined and enjoy.

That is basically exactly what the motor is I listed and I would have no issue pushing it past 600whp not crank. I had a DSS shortblock with stock crank, 5140 I beams (much weaker) and forged pistons I made 570whp on it and never gave me one issue whatsoever. The cast cranks are stronger then many give them credit for.
 

KLeech

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Right the cast cranks are fine for most typical builds, they can handle power great. He's just saying if you start trying to really spin it bad things are going to happen haha my opinion on it is if it's apart you might as well put a nice crank in it.
 

I8URLS1

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yeah I spun mine to 6500. But there were a few times it got turned up a bit higher, still never gave me any issues.
 

luke1333

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If you are not planning on making over 600 at the crank then ditch the idea of a completely forged SB. I say this because the cast crank is plenty capable of handling that kind of HP as long as you dont try and shift at 7k rpms.

Simply get a quality set of rods, pistons, rings and bearings. Have the block machined and enjoy.


That is basically exactly what the motor is I listed and I would have no issue pushing it past 600whp not crank. I had a DSS shortblock with stock crank, 5140 I beams (much weaker) and forged pistons I made 570whp on it and never gave me one issue whatsoever. The cast cranks are stronger then many give them credit for.

You just can't spin it up to 7k rpms

i wouldnt want it that high. probably not above 6k.

Right the cast cranks are fine for most typical builds, they can handle power great. He's just saying if you start trying to really spin it bad things are going to happen haha my opinion on it is if it's apart you might as well put a nice crank in it.


i figured that after the fact. I wouldnt plan on going over 600 just didnt want to buy a 2.1 kb and make 400+ hp and worry about breaking the rods. Some people say they can handle 450 hp fine and others say you are crazy. And i couldnt put boost above 8-9 psi on kb with stock internals anyways. How much would good pistons and rods and block to get done be? all said and done

So dont know if i want to put a kenne bell on it first or forge it first. This spring 3.73 are going in and prochamber and suspension overhaul all four corners. And trans cooler for sure and possibly valve body and/or stall. Then should i forge it or get kb to run for awhile under 400 hp? that is the questions. I see both sides to it. Just dont know which is better.
 

Stanger00

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But it had to always be a thought in the back of your head knowing that your crank might start to stress under those loads and eventually fail. I bet if I were to mag particle a cast crank after a few thousand miles ill find indications on it albeit minor but indications none the less.
 

Stanger00

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i wouldnt want it that high. probably not above 6k.




i figured that after the fact. I wouldnt plan on going over 600 just didnt want to buy a 2.1 kb and make 400+ hp and worry about breaking the rods. Some people say they can handle 450 hp fine and others say you are crazy. And i couldnt put boost above 8-9 psi on kb with stock internals anyways. How much would good pistons and rods and block to get done be? all said and done

So dont know if i want to put a kenne bell on it first or forge it first. This spring 3.73 are going in and prochamber and suspension overhaul all four corners. And trans cooler for sure and possibly valve body and/or stall. Then should i forge it or get kb to run for awhile under 400 hp? that is the questions. I see both sides to it. Just dont know which is better.

Get the blower and don't drive like an asshole at every stop light and your stock long block will be fine. Mine was still running strong at 400hp and 400 tq from the day I installed my Vortech in 2005 to the day I strapped it down on the dyno for its last dyno run before a new built long block went in it in October 2011. I put over 30k miles on the Vortech and had 3 different tuners tune it. The 3rd was due to me losing my x-cal and 3 tunes that were loaded on it because I never backed them up on a hard drive. Made enough power to run 11.7 at 118 in my built auto. I never thought twice about going wide open with it either. I loaded the bastard up good on the autobahn to push me deep into 160mph range before I rang the limiter

Edit: a KB 2.1 will probably never get you to 600 whp.
 
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luke1333

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Get the blower and don't drive like an asshole at every stop light and your stock long block will be fine. Mine was still running strong at 400hp and 400 tq from the day I installed my Vortech in 2005 to the day I strapped it down on the dyno for its last dyno run before a new built long block went in it in October 2011. I put over 30k miles on the Vortech and had 3 different tuners tune it. The 3rd was due to me losing my x-cal and 3 tunes that were loaded on it because I never backed them up on a hard drive. Made enough power to run 11.7 at 118 in my built auto. I never thought twice about going wide open with it either. I loaded the bastard up good on the autobahn to push me deep into 160mph range before I rang the limiter

Edit: a KB 2.1 will probably never get you to 600 whp.
i was thinking this too man. wanted close to 400 rwhp and torque the same. i wouldnt be stupid but i dont want to be afraid of mashing it either to redline. What is redline on yours? 5800 ish? and built auto included? what gears did you have it it to get close to 160 mph?

also i thought a 2.1 kb with pistons, bored block, forged connecting rods, bigger pulley on kb, trick flow heads pp, and bigger intake. that wouldnt come close to 575 rwhp or so?
 

I8URLS1

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My advice and take it for what it is, you are going to want more power at some point. You may be happy with 400/400 for a while but I'd give a few options some thought. The price of terminators has come down significantly. Are you planning to buy the blower new or used? Also then count in the price to buy a stall, vb, labor. Then a shortblock at some point. I would save that money, say you save 4k or so. Then I would sell your car and buy a terminator. You can find them already nicely modded for 17-18k with decent mileage. This is coming from someone who never leaves anything alone too, but I honestly feel like it would be a smarter decision even if it takes you a bit longer to do so.
 

Stanger00

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If you really want to have a powerful car in the upper 500 and low 600 range the best way to get there is with a Terminator.

My rev limit was set at 6100 shifted between 5900-6k rpms. I bought the transmission after my stock trans started to slip. I sold the stock one to help offset the new one. I ran 3.73s. I was in overdrive hitting those speeds and I was lucky I didn't break a rod.

I bought my car when it was less than 2 years old in 2002. I have put a ton of money into it over the years. I have 98k miles on the chassis and I put the blower on when it only had 67k miles transmission at 72k miles. I had the rear end rebuilt at 93k miles woth 31 spline and carbon fiber clutch diff. New motor and stronger transmission installed at 97k miles. Suspension is all new as well installed when motor went in.

I bought everything BRAND new! I spent a lot.

I could of had a 400 a month payment on a 2012 GT500 for 5 years with the money I just recently put in this car.
 
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luke1333

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My advice and take it for what it is, you are going to want more power at some point. You may be happy with 400/400 for a while but I'd give a few options some thought. The price of terminators has come down significantly. Are you planning to buy the blower new or used? Also then count in the price to buy a stall, vb, labor. Then a shortblock at some point. I would save that money, say you save 4k or so. Then I would sell your car and buy a terminator. You can find them already nicely modded for 17-18k with decent mileage. This is coming from someone who never leaves anything alone too, but I honestly feel like it would be a smarter decision even if it takes you a bit longer to do so.

If you really want to have a powerful car in the upper 500 and low 600 range the best way to get there is with a Terminator.

My rev limit was set at 6100 shifted between 5900-6k rpms. I bought the transmission after my stock trans started to slip. I sold the stock one to help offset the new one. I ran 3.73s. I was in overdrive hitting those speeds and I was lucky I didn't break a rod.

I bought my car when it was less than 2 years old in 2002. I have put a ton of money into it over the years. I have 98k miles on the chassis and I put the blower on when it only had 67k miles transmission at 72k miles. I had the rear end rebuilt at 93k miles woth 31 spline and carbon fiber clutch diff. New motor and stronger transmission installed at 97k miles. Suspension is all new as well installed when motor went in.

I bought everything BRAND new! I spent a lot.

I could of had a 400 a month payment on a 2012 GT500 for 5 years with the money I just recently put in this car.

A lot of people say to buy a cobra 03/04 of course but I am not sure i can find one with low miles and convertible that i like. I love my laser red color and they of course didnt make it in 03/04. I looked at a redfire convertible with 35k miles on it i believe and the wanted $27k for it and was stock and in nowhere near as good as shape as mine. i only got 47k on mine and going to be hard to find a cobra with 30k miles or so that hasnt been dogged all its life. And i would still want to mod it myself so i would still buying all the parts new most likely and upgrading it. Also i only owe about $4,000 on this one and will have paid off before long which is probably when blower would go on. Not to sound mean here but i would rather have a kb blown 2v vert that looks almost stock that is a lot quicker than most cars on the road and a lot cleaner than most cobras as well. and knowing i put the effort and parts into it even if it takes longer. does that make sense?

I mean if we are talking about a mint cobra with 30k miles or so we are up around $25k and im not spending that much on one. i will buy a 11+ gt before i drop that cash on a cobra.
 

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