2.4 pulley or underdrive crank pulley?

[HPLouis]

I was thinking of throwing a pulley on my car but I spoke to my tuner and he recommended against it because he said that I would need at boost a pump, at the very least.

Now my tuner is conservative and I like that. I'm not racing for money and this is a weekend driver so he took all that into account when creating my tunes. For example, on my Terminator, I have 18 degrees of total timing on a 3.0 pulley with 93 octane while I've read of people having 21 degrees of timing on 15lbs or more of boost.

Now, I've been checking out people's signatures and setups on forums, groups, etc. and I see a lot of people with 10-15% underdrives or 2.4 pulleys and they're on stock injectors and fuel pumps.

Are these people running on the ragged edge? Can the stock fuel system handle a 2.4 pulley?

Thanks

 

[Willie]

There's the best way and the other way. Your car is unique, like everyone else's. Datalog YOUR car, then evaluate where you are. Fuel pump duty cycle, fuel injector duty cycle, timing, load, etc..... This is the scientific method. Then there's "trusting" others. It's your choice. It's your car.

As for increasing boost by changing pullies, my personal preference is to go with the oversize crank. For several reasons. You don't need an additional idler, belt slippage is not an issue, in fact probably increased with the larger crank pulley AND when I was running this setup and going through tech at the track, I would always point out that my pulley is STOCK.... So from the top, it looked stock, if that matters. lol... FYI, the 15 percent over is good for 4-psig.

 

[fearthesnake]

13/14 MY's you can upgrade the Pulley w/o having to upgrade the fuel setup (Pumps/Injectors). It should be supported. OBVIOUSLY, when you have it tuned your tuner will let you know but you should have room left to spare with just a pulley change. Also, make sure you get that tensioner pulley to prevent belt slip.

I ran upper pulley/Throttle Body/Intake and off road exhaust and was still in range of the Injector flow, getting close on top end though (700hp). Anything more, def get BAPs and larger Injectors.

Since then gone with LTH's and E85 being installed with BAPs and bigger Injectors. I get a little skittish on 93 Octane and anything 700hp or more.

 

[raustin0017]

OP...contact Van at Revan Racing and go with a professional who knows these cars better than anyone out there...IMHO. Simple, easy, and safe.
2.5 upper, FRPP Cobra Jet TB, Cold Air, TR7 plugs and Lund Tune. It takes about 45 minutes total to install and you have the perfect safe combo.

2007 - 2012 GT500 Combo Package

Revan Racing, Inc. - 05-09 Mustang GT, 2010 Mustang GT, 07-09 Shelby GT500, 2010 Shelby GT500, 2011-12 Shelby GT500, 2011-12 Mustang 5.0L, 2011 Mustang V6 3.7L, 2005-2010 Mustang GT, 2011-2012 Mustang 5.0L, 2007-2012 Shelby GT500, 87-93 Mustang 5.0L, 94-95 Mustang 5.0L, 96-98 Mustang GT, 99-04...

www.revanracing.com

 

[Norton]

It's been a while since I upgraded (JLT 127mm CF CAI, CFM Twin Jet 67mm TB, VMP 2.4" Upper, 90mm Idler, BPS Oversized & Ported Plenum/Elbow, NGK TR7-IX plugs, VMP Triple-Pass Dual-Fan H/E, and Reische 170' Tstat with stock fuel system). IIRC, swapping crank pulleys requires minor block modification if your car is SVTTP-equipped. This was one reason I went the upper route. FWIW, a friend and I installed everything but the H/E and Tstat in my garage with simple hand tools. IMO, the crank pulley was more complicated than that.

Agree with @raustin0017 regarding consult with a reputable tuner about what's right for your car and goals. Good luck!

 

[1Kona_Venom]

Mods in sig
Stock fuel system. Its tuned safely, not conservative and not on the ragged edge.
Asked my tuner if I needed additive in cooler months, answer was no.
Would not do a lower w/o the crank brace.

 

[HPLouis]

Thanks for the info everyone. I have the SCT equipment to datalog and tune, but I don't have the area to test. That's what sucks about living in NYC. Lots of congestion and speed cameras so it's hard for street tuning and datalogging.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

Ive heard its challenging to have a modded car in that area, emmisions and all that?

Thanks for the info everyone. I have the SCT equipment to datalog and tune, but I don't have the area to test. That's what sucks about living in NYC. Lots of congestion and speed cameras so it's hard for street tuning and datalogging.

Sent from my SM-G975U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[SteveWK]

One thing nobody has touched on is using a crank saver bolt if you swap out the damper. I have an ATI 10% overdriven supercharger damper. It initially was installed using a new Ford OEM bolt. The OEM bolt eventually started to back out and fortunately I caught the problem before the entire damper came off. I now have Kinetik Motorsport's crank saver stud kit, GT500 Crank Saver Stud Kit - KINETIK MOTORSPORT . I would consider this as a requirement if you upgrade your damper. I am not the only one who has had problems with the stock bolt backing out, and in some cases, individuals have lost their engine.

 

[SteveWK]

One more comment, thinking back on all the mods I have had, I would consider installing 4.10 gears before a pulley swap. There are countless threads on this subject within this forum. 4.10 gears make the car feel much lighter and much easier to drive in traffic. This makes perfect sense for you since you live in NYC.

 

[fuelforfire87]

I was thinking of throwing a pulley on my car but I spoke to my tuner and he recommended against it because he said that I would need at boost a pump, at the very least.

Now my tuner is conservative and I like that. I'm not racing for money and this is a weekend driver so he took all that into account when creating my tunes. For example, on my Terminator, I have 18 degrees of total timing on a 3.0 pulley with 93 octane while I've read of people having 21 degrees of timing on 15lbs or more of boost.

Now, I've been checking out people's signatures and setups on forums, groups, etc. and I see a lot of people with 10-15% underdrives or 2.4 pulleys and they're on stock injectors and fuel pumps.

Are these people running on the ragged edge? Can the stock fuel system handle a 2.4 pulley?

Thanks

Just had my car tuned by Lund with JLT 123 CAI, VMP twinjet 67, BPS oversized elbow, a 2.4" upper pulley and 90mm idler, on 93 pump gas. Asked whether or not before starting the tuning process if I would need a BAP. I was told no. After datalogging was told the fueling was on point. These cars have dual pumps so they are more than capable of supplying enough fuel on pump gas without a BAP. Stock pulley size is 2.7 so only a 2-3 psi increase over stock.

 

[HPLouis]

Just had my car tuned by Lund with JLT 123 CAI, VMP twinjet 67, BPS oversized elbow, a 2.4" upper pulley and 90mm idler, on 93 pump gas. Asked whether or not before starting the tuning process if I would need a BAP. I was told no. After datalogging was told the fueling was on point. These cars have dual pumps so they are more than capable of supplying enough fuel on pump gas without a BAP. Stock pulley size is 2.7 so only a 2-3 psi increase over stock.

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[biminiLX]

Best bang for your buck, 4.10s and DRs.
Let’s be honest, you’ll never drive in the rain or poor weather.
I believe you have a collectible all option car.
You’ll get more enjoyment from gears, drag radials and a basic tune than a pulley swap.
I’m my case I choose a lower pulley over the easier upper because of SFI damper, better belt wrap and long term plans, but I’m not sure I’d suggest you swap any pulleys if you have a collector quality car you’re not sure you’ll keep long term.
-J

 

[WicK]

ever up by Poughkeepsie NY? I love my set up and gives me what I wanted out of the car. (10.7 @ 132) simple bolt ons like most here. Few car shows left too if you're interested.

 

[Black02GT]

I was thinking of throwing a pulley on my car but I spoke to my tuner and he recommended against it because he said that I would need at boost a pump, at the very least.

Now my tuner is conservative and I like that. I'm not racing for money and this is a weekend driver so he took all that into account when creating my tunes. For example, on my Terminator, I have 18 degrees of total timing on a 3.0 pulley with 93 octane while I've read of people having 21 degrees of timing on 15lbs or more of boost.

Now, I've been checking out people's signatures and setups on forums, groups, etc. and I see a lot of people with 10-15% underdrives or 2.4 pulleys and they're on stock injectors and fuel pumps.

Are these people running on the ragged edge? Can the stock fuel system handle a 2.4 pulley?

Thanks

Who are you using for tuning? Remote or in person dyno?