2001 Bullitt, No crank, No start, but will push start

[gonebrokeracing]

As explained in title, Had the car up on stands changing the front O2 sensors.
also change out a a split hose running to the evap purge valve in the passenger side fender well.
drop the car down go to turn the key and nothing, not even a click.... Also most like i didn't push in the clutch..
But rolling down the driveway i can pop the clutch and it starts and runs fine.
I tried swapping the relays under the hood, tried hitting the starter. still nothing.
I was already tired and had no patience to try anything else.
So after push starting it. I went to drop off at a friends shop, got to the shop let it idle while i went in to talk.
When I came back out to move it into the shop. The odometer had all dashes. but was running fine. I parked the car shut it off and turned the key back on, still no start but the odometer was reading normal again.
WHAT THE HELL IS Wrong..... Could it Be a CCRM?
I just found out that it was in the fender where i was at when i changed the purge valve hose.
But i didn't have to mess or move any wires while there.

Side note: What is the best way to add a Starter Button to bypass the key.
With out running a wire straight to the starter.
So i don't have to push start it.
Thanks for the help

 

[SecondhandSnake]

I don't think the CCRM will impact it cranking. It's just a bank of relays for the ECU, fans, and fuel pump.

I think the trigger wire for the starter goes back along the power cable that runs under the front of the engine. WH/RD if I'm not mistaken.

The CCRM can cause the odometer dashes though, due to the aforementioned ECU relay. Make sure it has a good ground. I think it's got one ground lug nearby, and it may be case grounded as well. I know that part can be pretty finnicky. But it wouldn't run if the ECU was dead. That makes me think more communication between the ECU and cluster.

I would start checking around for anything you might have bumped while working. I remember someone having a similar issue recently on another forum after replacing oxygen sensors as well. But I don't think he ever posted what the resolution was.

 

[gonebrokeracing]

I know i should start with the basics like the starter, but it never gave me any warning it was getting bad.
Plus I was to lazy right now to jack the car up to get a wire direct on the solenoid to put power right to it.
I'll be doing that tomorrow, weather permitted.
Tonight after work I tried bypassing the clutch safety switch, still nothing, tried a new ignition switch and nothing.
I then since i was there spliced into the ignition switch wire ( white/pink stripe & Gray/yellow stripe ) to put a starter button. hit the button and nothing.

Honestly I'm going to be mad if its the starter, because I'm just tired of working on cars in the driveway
Tomorrow, I'll try the starter, if it spins over, I'm going for the CCRM next. after that I'm lost....

 

[SecondhandSnake]

Yeah and the starter is a bitch with a stock K-member. If you narrowed it down then it's just a matter of making sure the starter is getting good power and ground, and if the solenoid is getting 12V in the crank position. Sometimes if you bang on the solenoid that will free it up. And remember just because you have power and/or ground to the starter it may not deliver enough current due to high resistance.

Also if it turns out to be the solenoid, you can replace just that and not the starter. While they don't list it as a serviceable part for the Mustang, you can get one for an F150 and swap them out.

I hear you about working on it in the driveway. I had a Grand Marquis' starter give up the ghost in subzero weather. Not a fun time.

 

[hotcobra03]

sounds like a ground issue

odometer going to dashs,

starter is other but also ground issue will do this

starter needs a huge ground,,

engine controls don't,,

try using jumper cable's

ground motor to battery,,see if car cranKS with key,,


I had issue on ground at motor mount,
it's on a stud,
mine snapped but didn't fall out of bracket
a wiggle test did


for pcm,,
grounds on radiator support

green bolts wiggle those,,


after market battery terminal's

under clamp must be cleaned

our site has full manual for wiring

small version will also help for basic

 

[hotcobra03]

while I was doing the push start shit,
I parked on hill,,

doesn't take much of a roll to pop

even works in reverse

remember turn key to on

 

[hotcobra03]

while I was doing the push start shit,
I parked on hill,,

doesn't take much of a roll to pop

even works in reverse

remember turn key to on

 

[gonebrokeracing]

let me go long story,
( skip to the bottom if you want to get to the starting issue )
I am trying to sell the car. I can post the ad from the trader, if you want to see it.
But shortly after i put it in the trader back in November, problems started. I developed a Vibration and a throw-out bearing chirp, and the clutch pedal was getting extremely hard to push in
After replacing Clutch, fork, throw-out bearing,
pedal effort was butter soft but still had a vibration.
then i went motor mounts, u-joints,
Still have a vibration.
took it by Promotion Performance to get there opinion on if it was the trans. Because the vibration happen only while the car was under load mostly in second and third gear and with still a throw-out style chirping sound still there.
I trust there opinion ( had a few transmission built by them)
They said that it sound more like a rear-end noise.
They suggested to get it up in the air and go threw the gears.
I did that and found most of my throw-out bearing noise was the fork vibrating, it was missing the weight on the fork, they gave me one and it took alot of that sound away but the fork still moves more then i want.
While it was in the air going threw the gears the vibration wasn't there. I was going to open the diff cover and look, but i gave up because it started raining. after the rain stopped i decided to just fix the small things a few vacuum lines and change out the O2 sensors while it was up. then it stared pouring down again and I was like this was a sign to stop and give up on the vibration and just let it go as is.



The next morning i took it off the stands and went to start in and that's when nothing happened...........
If i wasn't in pain from crawling under the car the day before I might have had a level head.

But I went all F-it mode.... Called my buddy with a shop and said i'm just going to drop it off. Just make it start..
2 days later, nothing, they tried reprograming my key and the anti theft but still nothing, they wanted to bring a electrical specialist in at 200.00
I said I'll just come get the car, because you could at least push start it.
Well we couldn't get it push started now. So i had it towed to the house on a flat bed, get to the house tried popping the clutch rolling off the tow truck with alot of speed and nothing.
push it into the driveway.
Thought let me try my spare keys for the hell of it. without a bet rolling down the drive in reverse not even fast and pop the clutch, Fires right up.
That night I stared with bypassing the clutch safety switch, nothing, then i tried jumping the wiring at the ignition switch.
still nothing.

Next morning, I started with basic first. wire right off the starter solenoid right to battery and it turns over and fired up with the key on..

SIDE NOTE: the signal wire to the starter solenoid is right next to the battery (White w/pink stripe) it a single wire with a quick connect. Just unplug and jump that right to battery positive.

Now going back to the wiring at the Ignition switch, Jumping a wire from the Gray/yellow stripe wire out ( its only hot when the key is on) touching to the the White/pink striped wire at after the quick connect it. It would engage the starter and the car would start up.
So for now I just put a starter button in-line. So You still have to turn the key to run, but have to use the button to start.
Now i can atleast start in and drive it.

But what could be causing there to be no switch power at the white/pink wire at the ignition switch plug out to wire by the battery.. Also there is battery hot at the starter relay, but nothing else when you turn the key.

Any ideas ????

 

[ccq8le]

I agree with the sounds like a grounding issue.


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[hotcobra03]

Dropbox - WD_Ford_128058.pdf - Simplify your life


Dropbox - WD_Ford_128059.pdf - Simplify your life

here is wiring,

 

[hotcobra03]

you can jump starter at relay,

see g102,

this is a ground for key side ,,

run a jumper ground, pin 30, see if key works ,
pin 87, you see if you jumped power there starter will crank,

very simple system,

 

[Blkkbgt]

Dumb question, did you pinch the wiring harness for the trans and 02 sensors that routed over the top of the bellhousing? You could be grounding out there.

 

[SecondhandSnake]

When it rains it pours.

If it cranks by jumping the solenoid wire to 12V, then you don't have a power or ground issue to the starter.

Now just to clarify, you're getting 12V to the main power stud on the starter, but you're not getting 12V on the solenoid wire (WH/RD) with the key in the crank position? And you said you have battery hot at the relay, but which pin? Is it the power input (usually called pin 30 or whatever) or the "trigger" wire that's used to switch it in the crank position? If it isn't getting the 12V on the trigger wire in the crank position, you've got to keep going upstream. That I think leads to the interior and the ignition switch, but I'd have to find the diagrams to confirm.

 

[gonebrokeracing]

Haven't had a chance to look at it again.
I'm starting to agree that it might be a bad ground. Today the Speedo stopped working. Also while driving it the odometer went all dashes again.
But shut the key off and back on while driving the odometer starts reading again.
I'm thinking while I was changing the O2 sensors, I must have done something.
Where is the ground back there ? Would i be able to see it from the top?
I don't want to crawl under it again.

 

[ccq8le]

There is a chasis ground. I had to change one on my 96 for a no crank situation.

Use a jumper cable to act as a ground and see if it will crank.

You will have to get under the car for sure tho. Ford really used a lousy ground strap from the factory.

You can search about this and find a thread that may have some photos.

Keep us posted

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