A lot of Boss owners have stock drive trains and are having this issue on track including me. I had my trans removed and clutch inspected but my dealer didn't find anything wrong and put it back together without changing anything.
2011 5.0L Clutch Pedal Issue Fix
- Thread starter black03
- Start date
I hadn't even thought about you roadrunner guys with your factory 7.5k rev limit. I just don't see how Ford hasn't come up with a TSB on this.
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I've put over 5k miles with it out. no not ridiculously heavy you will notice a change in feel when clutch pushing out but you get used to it. You will have movement (about 1/8in) in pedal but not a sagging. Ford does have a TSB and the have you replace it with the part #2455 that is the Assembly with out the spring. The info I got from a Ford Rep (Not a Dealer) The spring was added to help everyday normal drivers with the larger clutch assembly. They know with high RPM spirtited driving will sometimes stick. This is why they put out the TSB and to gain exrta $ on the parts the will sell to the people that like to drive in the high RPM range. Choice is simple if you DD you car and don't track it at all then the spring will give you an everyday easy to use clutch so leave it in. But if you like to track your car and don't want to miss hitting gears at high RPM's then spend 15min of your time and $0 and do the DIY spring removal or spend 1hr of your time and $100+ and change the brake/clutch assm pedal. And no Ford will not replace the assm under warenty unless the assist spring sticks under normal driving.
Which TSB and can you post a copy? I thought the TSB was for early 2011 cars and won't apply to 2012/2013 cars.
CLUTCH STAYOUT AT HIGH RPM—BUILT ON OR TSB 10-19-4
BEFORE 4/25/2010
FORD:
2011 Mustang
ISSUE WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Provisions Of
Some 2011 Mustangs built on or before 4/25/2010, New Vehicle Limited
with a manual transmission and low mileage, Warranty Coverage
typically 10,000 miles or less (16,093 Km), may IMPORTANT: Warranty
exhibit a clutch pedal Stayout condition at very high coverage limits/policies are
engine RPM. This condition will generate a concern not altered by a TSB.
of the clutch pedal remaining on the floor during Warranty coverage limits
high engine RPM shifts. When engine RPM drops, are determined by the
clutch pedal operation returns to normal, but the identified causal part.
re-engagement may be abrupt.
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
ACTION 101904A 2011 Mustang MT82 0.8 Hr.
Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the Transmission: Replace The
condition. Brake Pedal And Bracket
Assembly (Do Not Use
SERVICE PROCEDURE With Any Other Labor
Operations)
The clutch pedal Stayout is a condition where at DEALER CODING
high engine RPM, centrifugal forces on the clutch CONDITION
system can reduce the force with which the clutch BASIC PART NO. CODE
diaphragm fingers push against the release bearing. 2455 01
This can result in the clutch pedal staying on the
floor until engine RPM decreases and the
diaphragm return force increases.
1. Replace the Brake Pedal and Bracket
assembly. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section
206-06.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
BR3Z-2455-M Brake Pedal And Bracket
(Black-3.7L/GT 5.0L w/Brembo
Brakes)
BR3Z-2455-P Brake Pedal And Bracket
(Metallic-3.7L/GT 5.0L w/Brembo
Brakes)
BR3Z-2455-R Brake Pedal And Bracket
(Black-GT 5.0L Standard Brakes)
BR3Z-2455-T Brake Pedal And Bracket
(Metallic-GT 5.0L Standard
Brakes)
NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do
the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper
vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by “do-it-yourselfers”. Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a
Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation
determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article.The information in this Technical Service Bulletin
(TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates.The most recent information is
available through Ford Motor Company’s on-line technical resources.
Copyright ã 2010 Ford Motor Company Online Publication Date September 20, 2010 PAGE 1
I've seen that video before but never that TSB. Doesn't apply to my '12 though.
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Ok let me try and explain this a little easier. The TSB was put out to cover fords ass and to try and teach the dealers what to do if someone is consistantly complaning about the problem. All 2011+ Mustangs come from the factory with the assist spring including the GT500 and v6. You will only notice the sticking clutch at very high RPM's. This is why tuned cars, Boss or like mine GT's with added FI. will feel it more frequent. If you never run your car balls to the wall. Do nothing enjoy your mustang there is nothing wrong. If you wantto run your car balls to the wall then take the spring out or replace the pedal assm to get the best out of your car.
I have no doubt removing the spring helps but IMO that's not the cause of the clutch pedal sticking. It's a band aid repair at best. If the spring was the problem why wouldn't is stick every time like in the video? Over at BOSSMustangsOnline - Index we've had this discussion going on for quite some time. All Bosses rev to 7,500 so this issue is very common. Some have removed the spring with success but others have had the clutch stick. Many don't like the feel of the clutch without the spring so I've been hesitant to do it. I've only had my clutch stick on track at high RPM shifts when the car was hot. If something as simple as the spring was the problem why wouldn't it stick more frequently?
That's what leads me to believe that the combo of removing the spring along with a switch to DOT4 fluid and a JHR clutch line would be the best bet.
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Just did the spring removal a couple weekends ago. Made the clutch feel leaps and bounds better. MUCH more consistent, I can actually drive the car smoothly now without the "guess when it's gonna engage" game. There's about a 1/4" of play (not sag) at the top of the pedal just like the older 5.0/T5 cars and much more communication feel from the clutch.
It's a good bit stiffer/heavier feeling, but certainly nothing that impedes my driving. This is my DD and I like it very much. Plan to do the clutch line and DOT4 switch in the near future as well
It's a good bit stiffer/heavier feeling, but certainly nothing that impedes my driving. This is my DD and I like it very much. Plan to do the clutch line and DOT4 switch in the near future as well
Thanks for the feedback bro! You're making me want to yank out that assist spring!!
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DO IT! :banana: It's easy as pie, just get up under the dash and look up at the clutch assembly. You'll see the spring has a white perch on the bottom that is mounted on a shaft. The upper black mount is a shaft built into the spring mechanism and clips into it's own mount.
Just get a long, beefy screwdriver (I used a pretty hefty 12" one) and pry the bottom white perch off it's shaft. I got it started with the pedal in the up position, then pushed the pedal down with my hand to get a different angle on it, then let it up again to get it the rest of the way off. It'll fight you a little and it's gonna kinda shoot off, but nothing to be worried about.
Can't speak to whether or not it helped with the high RPM stay out, I don't generally rev my car that high so I haven't had it happen period. I just didn't like the inconsistent feel. Don't regret it a bit tho
Just get a long, beefy screwdriver (I used a pretty hefty 12" one) and pry the bottom white perch off it's shaft. I got it started with the pedal in the up position, then pushed the pedal down with my hand to get a different angle on it, then let it up again to get it the rest of the way off. It'll fight you a little and it's gonna kinda shoot off, but nothing to be worried about.
Can't speak to whether or not it helped with the high RPM stay out, I don't generally rev my car that high so I haven't had it happen period. I just didn't like the inconsistent feel. Don't regret it a bit tho
Here is a little easier way from gizmo5 at 197fourm.
Warning: If you break shit, crash, die, stab yourself in th eye with pliers or in any way become more ugly than you already are after following this DIY guide... I assume no responsibility and you suck.
Step 1 - Remove top clutch kill switch assembly for cruise control. Twist it
Step 2 - Remove clip and arm off of the left side of the pedal, clutch hydraulic arm. HOW you ask? Remove the clip on the left side, then push clutch slightly in to remove pressure, you will feel when it will move freely. Pull left and twist arm parallel to the marching surface aka ground.
Step 3 - Pull pedal towards you/seat/back of car. All the way until the spring pops out of its white plastic cup/seat
Step 4 - Remove ****shitard spring from your life, reassemble everything else, and realize that your pedal assembly is now a GT500 clone with no stupid ass "assist spring" holding the pedal down
I guess you could put it back. But you will not regrett it once you get used to it. It will feel like a normal clutch just now you can shift over 7000 rpm's
Do you have to twist it in any particular direction, clockwise or counter clockwise? I am trying to avoid breaking the switch.
Thanks
Don't remember but get a good flashlight up there you will see three notches that the tabs fit into for it to come out.
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