2011 Mustang GT "RACE TRACK PACK" build

silversleeper91

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My build started off with a 2011 Mustang GT TRACK PACK. The car had 2700 miles on it and was 100% stock. I wanted to start to build a street able road race car that was also a super car of sorts. I started my journey over a year ago now and installed a large list of parts. I started with the brakes because the first time I took the car into a “track environment I had the front brake rotors glowing red and the brake fluid bowling! I installed front DBA two piece slotted brake rotors with hawk road race pads. I also replaced the front brake lines with stainless braided lines made by J&M. The rear brake rotors at the time I didn’t know what I wanted to do with the rear brakes either a bigger rear rotors or what ever. So I installed DBA slotted OEM replacement size rear brake rotors and hawk road race brake pads. On the rear brakes I also installed J&M stainless braided brake lines and finished the brakes off with some super blue racing brake fluid. I plan on this winter running a larger rear rotor after the fact but oh well. To keep the front brakes cool I installed the Laguna Seca front brake ducting with the ford knuckle hose mounts. I installed all sorts of aero parts to keep the car stable at higher speeds. I installed a world challenge front splitter and made my own functional rear diffuser. For transmission cooling I installed the Boss 302 Laguna Seca transmission cooling scoop. I installed Roush side skirts and made my own rear bumper side splitters as no company makes them. I then installed a Tiger racing hood for the heat extraction form under the hood. Next was the engine, I haven’t really so far done very much believe it or not. I installed a Boss 302 intake manifold and installed the Boss 302 strut tower brace and a JLT cold air intake. Still on factory exhaust manifolds (for now) and a 3 inch off road x-pipe made by UPR. I made the rear axle back section with stainless piping and Magnaflow competition mufflers and a Lethal Performance mid pipe section. After tuning the car thus far makes 412 hp at 7300 rpm and 363 ft-lb’s at 3800 rpm to the wheels. I plan on doing much more to the engine but I want it to be reliable so its going to stay naturally aspirated. I called BCRACING for a set of wheels at this point and they were extremely helpful. I ordered and received a one off set of custom made wheels. 19x9.5 and 19x11 two piece forged wheels. So now with the wheels done it was suspension time!!! I started off installing a new J&M adjustable pan hard bar. Then I installed rear upper and lower control arms made by J&M. Next was a UPR rear upper spherical joint into the differential. Then I installed Eibach sport line lowering springs (just to lower the vehicle with future plans of installing coil overs). While I was in the rear of the vehicle I decided to tackle some parts other than suspension. I installed a 13 GT500 rear differential cover (so I could make my own rear differential cooler in the future). While the differential cover was off I installed a fr500 torsion rear differential carrier. Now That the car was fun to drive and I have built the car over the winter and stressed my wife out from all the upgrades lol I can drive it much harder and faster safer. Now being the end of this season I wanted to just finish the suspension completely so I could work on the engine over the winter. I installed UPR front heim joint adjustable sway bar end links. Then knowing I need them I installed front STEEDA bump steer tie rod ends. Because of the great job BCRACING did on my wheels I contacted Tim and Cody there for some coil overs. I did a lot of research on coil overs from other companies trust me! The BCRACING coil overs offered a lot for the price. The coils have a pillow ball mount that come with the front coil overs and I can adjust camber on the fly from the top of the pillow ball mount If I wanted to. So the coil overs come with everything needed and there is no need to buy camber plates or upgraded gt500 front upper strut mounts! I received the coil overs and found the front coil overs come fully assembled unlike the H&R coil overs I installed in my wife’s BMW (what a circus). Installing the coils where very easy and not time consuming at all I Installed the coil overs ride height adjusted and all in two hours with a floor jack and some air tools. Now on to driving and adjusting the dampening on the coil overs. The dampening is at the drivers discretion. I like it a little stiff but I still want the car to be balanced. After driving the car for a few days I finally have the car set up with a touch of over steer because that’s how I like it. So far I love the car but I’m no where near done with it as it is a sickness I’m sure some people can agree. Out of all the parts I have installed I have done extensive research because I want the car to look the part but most of all be 100% functional and not spend millions of dollars in the process because I’m not a millionaire. I would highly recommend BCRACING and I’m not just saying that as a sales pitch! Tim and Cody have been great dealing with me through all of my badgering and questions and indecisiveness. And they make a great AFFORDABLE product that NO one else has at the level of what you get from BCRACING. There will be several upgrades to the vehicle to come and I will be adding to the thread as I do them. Thank you very viewing my thread!
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charba951

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That's a lot of stuff lol! How'd you make the rear splitters? I really want a pair for the rear to go with the side splitters :beer:
 

silversleeper91

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I measured the rear bumper section and made the rear side splitters out of 1/4 ABS plastic. it looks good and its the same material the front world challenge splitter is made out of. the rear side splitters are held on by the christmas tree plastic body push pins and so far have stayed on the car at 173mph lol.
 

86Fbody

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Did you do all the measuring to make sure the rear diffuser was the right length or just winged it? Also the Tiger racing hood is less for heat and more for creating front end suction, not being a smart ass, just something I learned over at BMO.
 
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silversleeper91

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yes i did measure everything for the rear diffuser. its sits with the car on the ground at a posotive 8.2 degrees. the diffuser is fully functional, it goes from the rear differential to past the rear bumper by 2 1/4 inches. when making the diffuser i spoke with Audi egineers from the racing program (I am a certified Audi technician). they told me the diffuser needs to be from 7-10 degrees of positive rake to be functional and needs to go past the bumper cover. the diffuser is actually bolted to all original holes under the car and i can take it off in five minutes.
 

silversleeper91

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and 86FBODY, i did know that it is more for front end suction than for heat extraction but most people dont understand how that works. but the hood does work for both heat extraction and front end suction (downforce)
 

silversleeper91

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well if you plan on buying a tiger hood i would highly recommend you run hood pins. i ran the hood with out hoods pins and no bueno the hood flexes so much at high speeds that it cracked the gel coat in a few areas. so thats why i installed aerocatch hood pins and it doesn't flex anymore.
 

silversleeper91

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i almost forgot i also installed a MGW full short throw shifter box, heat shield and linkage into the car. the shifts are nice and crisp!!! and i made my own (which i will take pictures of tonight) rear seat delete. the rear seat delete BOLTS into factory holes and is sturdy as hell. and it has a helmet hold down too! i made it from 1/2 MDF and 1/4 MDF. the rear seat deletes you can buy are either big money I.E. laguna seca or that fiber board stuff. plus im going to be putting a cage in the car over this winter so i dont need the rear chassis brace from the laguna seca.
 

silversleeper91

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86FBODY, the rear diffuser works flawlessly at 120+ mph the only downside is no evap lol if thats even a down side? but i can during inspection time just pull the diffuser off and put the factory evap crap back in.
 

mjohns930

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This is really cool. I like all the one off stuff you built for it. I am looking forward to seeing the rear seat delete pics.
 

silversleeper91

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saunupe, you cant keep water out from under the hood. i have a k&n filter dry charger sock for the filter if i get caught in the rain. and i have only had to use it once. the time i did have to use it it worked awesome! and i was stuck driving in a down pour too.
 

silversleeper91

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also i didnt know if any one noticed the rear laguna seca faux gas cap emblem? that is one of two emblems ever made. ford only made one grabber blue laguna seca in 2012 and the car was auctioned off for 450,000 dollars!. i harrassed ford for three weeks to get that emblem. ford only makes the emblem in yellow or red, there is no part number in existance for grabber blue. ford finnaly gave me the phone number to the company that makes all their emblems.
 

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