2011+ Steeda stainless braided brake line writeup!

Status
Not open for further replies.

five0three

big deal
Established Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2011
Messages
829
Location
Minot ND
Steeda Stainless Braided Brake Lines


Installation guide*


DSC_0008_zps1b5fb7f5.jpg








Parts required:

Steeda P/N 475-SBH6101 - Stainless Braided Brake Lines
Included: Four brake lines, eight copper crush washers
Zip ties





Tools required:

13mm open ended wrench
10mm socket+ratchet (or box end as used in this writeup)
Torque wrench + 13mm socket capable of 60 lb-ft
Diagonal cutters
Pick set
Needle nose pliers
Safety glasses
Latex/nitrle gloves





Vehicle pre-condition:

Vehicle securely and safely raised off the ground
Wheels removed

DSC_0012_zps6106a070.jpg






Removal





Step one:

Use your 13mm open ended wrench to remove the rubber flex line from the hard line.

DSC_0018_zps5aed4c42.jpg





Step 2

Use your 10mm wrench (or socket) to remove the fender mount

DSC_0016_zps60589db4.jpg




Step 3

Use your 10mm wrench (or socket) to remove the shock mount

DSC_0022_zps739686e2.jpg






Step 4

Carefully pull the brake line free from the wheel sensor wire harness

DSC_0019_zpsd07a31c4.jpg





Step 5

Use your 13mm socket to remove the banjo bolt from the brake caliper and remove the line from the vehicle

DSC_0021_zps4506ed7e.jpg






Step 6

This step is the trickiest part of this whole process. Use either the pick or the pliers to lift the first copper crush washer far enough to clip it with the diagonal cutters. Pull the banjo bolt from the line. Use the pliers or pick to break the second washer free. Once free, this washer should come off the bolt without cutting.

DSC_0023_zpsb92b8c84.jpg


DSC_0025_zpse3fe5dfd.jpg





Installation




Step one

Place the first washer on the banjo bolt. Insert the banjo bolt into the line end. place the second washer on the bolt. (Insure the mating surfaces of the washers, line ends and caliper are free of debris as this could prevent a proper seal once installed.)

DSC_0026_zpsfa3516b4.jpg






Step 2

Route the new brake line in a fashion the will not rub or chaff.* Consider the complete lock to lock travel of the steering, the complete up and down travel of the suspension, and the placement of the wheel and tire.* Use the 13m socket and ratchet to install the banjo bolt into the caliper. Torque to 60 lb-ft*

DSC_0028_zps7ed0732e.jpg






Step 3

Install the new line to the hard line. Do not completely tighten until you have reinstalled the mount bracket.

(pic from old line)
DSC_0018_zps5aed4c42.jpg





Step 4

Use your 10mm wrench or socket to install the body mount bracket and complete tightening of the hard line.

(pic from old line)
DSC_0016_zps60589db4.jpg





Step 5

Use zip ties to LOOSELY secure the wheel speed harness to the brake line in such a fashion that will prevent it from catching road debris or rubbing and chaffing on vehicle components.* Consider the complete lock to lock travel of the steering, the complete up and down travel of the suspension, and the placement of the wheel and tire.*

DSC_0037_zps08f1b8eb.jpg






*This writeup, in its entirety, should be considered a suggestive guide based on my opinion. Torque values and line placement are up to the end user.


Keep in mind that your brakes are the single most important safety item on your vehicle. Take your time and do it right the first time. Be sure to follow up your work after a test drive to look for leaks, rubbing and general serviceability. Be sure to bleed your brake system before reinstallation of your wheels and down-jacking.
 
Last edited:

five0three

big deal
Established Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2011
Messages
829
Location
Minot ND
awesome write up.

Please change the torque of the banjo bolt to the caliper though. Ford manual calls for 41ft lbs.

You are correct, however, the lines leaked from the banjo bolt at 41 lb-ft. The supplied crush washers are a different thickness than the factory ones.
 

Blazer707@TBR

Master Ford Tech
Authorized Vendor
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
4,313
Location
Bay Area
Do these lines really have a completely different feel to them as opposed to the rubber lines?

-Thomas
 

five0three

big deal
Established Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2011
Messages
829
Location
Minot ND
Nice write up. How is the pedal feel vs rubber lines?

Do these lines really have a completely different feel to them as opposed to the rubber lines?

-Thomas

Couldn't tell you. I did a Brembo swap, and figured I would do these while I had it all apart. Its still winter up here in ND. Couldn't get it out of my storage unit if I wanted to lol....
 

01bluesnake

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2009
Messages
3,431
Location
chicago burbs Des Plaines
You are correct, however, the lines leaked from the banjo bolt at 41 lb-ft. The supplied crush washers are a different thickness than the factory ones.

Ok, makes sense

Do these lines really have a completely different feel to them as opposed to the rubber lines?

-Thomas

Every time i have added braided lines, the brake pedal had a reduced travel amount to apply them and felt a lot more firm in braking response
 

grnenvy

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 27, 2002
Messages
3,486
Location
From Philly now Tampa, Fl
When I did the complete Baer kit on my car I talked to one of the head techs and he told me the factory brake hoses are fine and are made of much better material then they were in the 90s. They haven't seen any signs of expanding under load.
But I'm running braded because they came with the kit.

A high quality brake fluid change can't hurt either.
 

86merc

Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
956
Location
Il
^ I have heard that as well. One came from a Ford engineer. I can't find that link though. Here is another good read for you guys. Click here
 

86merc

Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
956
Location
Il
Ya. And being the Boss has a different hose part number than the GT I assume it is a lower expansion hose on the Boss.Well FRPP actually says that it is. I am converting in a month or so when the weather gets nice here. I had no problem buying light weight 2 piece rotors (read: pricey) but don't think I will spend double for the stainless braided brake hoses. Basically a $100 difference. Ya, I may be weird. lol

I don't think you can go wrong with either style. Unless we come to see failures in one hose or the other.
 

jymboslice

Rookie
Established Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2011
Messages
2,711
Location
US
great write-up. When i go to change my brake pads/rotors/fluid i'm going to buy these brake lines.
 

Red Turtle

ALWAYS WATCHING
Super Moderator
Joined
May 23, 2004
Messages
12,694
Location
Florida
Nice write up. Moving it to the How To section so it can be easily referenced.
 

haVesoV777

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2013
Messages
221
Location
Studio City
Great write up, how easy would you rate this to be from 1-10 as a DIY project for someone with a decent skill set? I'm a bit paranoid when it comes to my brakes (for obvious reasons) and i was also wondering did you have to bleed the system before changing out the lines?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread



Top