2011+ Turbo kit giveaway!!

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CPRsm

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Small and large differences. See if your eyes bleed lol.
I prefer a large single for simplicity. Less moving parts, etc.
To be quite honest the single I've chosen has shown to be more reliable than Precision turbos time and time again. We also have he ability to custom make a turbo in this frame with multiple turbine and housing options. A vband T3 only has two options. There are no other options to choose from on that kit.

Downpipes- This kit has more down pipe volume than anything out there. Which is always a good thing. Promotes faster spool and lower back pressure. We are also working on a dump up front for guys who love that jet sound lol.

This kit comes with a turbo mount to keep the weight of the turbo and exhuast off the headers. Big problem with twins and no mounts is the headers hold the turbo and the exhaust from down pipes all the way back to the tail of the car. These newer cars don't have a secondary exhaust mount at the tranny crossmember like the older ones. So the weight of the exhaust pivots on the frame rails all the way back at the mufflers. All the weight from that point forward is carried by the headers. As far as the exhaust in that area, this kit comes with a mid pipe. Don't need to buy the kit, then cat delete or an O/R mid pipe.

Mig vs Tig- not a huge difference. One is obviously nicer looking. But the only real advantage for tig is a migs stop and starts on a bead. There is a much higher potential for leaks. When migs restarts its welding process it lays metal down over its starting point. Tig wets the old stopping point, then adds metal and moves forward. With tig if you miss overlapping the weld you can tell by looking at it. Mig it's harder. It will leak from under the weld and you can't always tell by looking at it.

SS intercooler tubing vs Aluminum (AL)
Slight weight advantage to AL. Heat dissipation also goes to Al. When it comes out of the turbo hot the last thing you want is a material like SS trying to retain the heat. Good for header material, not for intercooling. It's not a huge gain there, but get it where you can. AL is softer, so we bead roll the tubing. Theirs has three stamps around the tube to hold the silicone. You've spent time in the GT500 section here. You see what can happen and the headaches it can cause. It is softer though, so don't drop it. It will ding the tube!


SS vs Mild steel. SS has a higher resistance the heat than mild steel. Honestly, never had a problem with it. Just what I started with when I started building kits. If it's not broken,..... The kit is coated in 2000 deg black. Again it works well, but won't stay looking brand new for ever. But it's almost a $700 upgrade on the hellion kit. This kit also comes with a turbo blanket. Cost ya 240 to add hellions.

Warranty. Not going to warranty for life and give any false hope that metal fatigue will hold out that long. Please refer to Tommy Boy quotes for warranty. I've only ever had one header crack in close to 10 years. And it was recently. The factory exhaust hangers were not used to hold up the weight of the kit like I designed. The muffler shop didn't put enough tension on the mounts like the factory. So the headers carried the turbo and all the weight all the way back to the mufflers and cracked one. Ain't that a bitch?


Intercooling. Honestly, I don't think anyone comes close. We're the only ones to offer either style of intercooler. Air or Water. We also have an upgraded air to water available. That's two 1000hp garret cores welded together. The standard issue air to air is almost 1300 cubic inches in area. About 200 cubes more than the next closest competitor. That adds up to three times less the temp rise at the track less than any competitors numbers posted online. Including Lunds air to water at the same boost level. At 8.5 psi the dyno saw a 3.5 degree rise and 12 degrees at the 1/4. You can also get the air to water and throw in ice if you want. No data on these stock engines yet. Same setup on my GT500 saw 16 degree rise on the dyno on 22psi. Chances are on a stock engine with 10psi or so, inlets may fall during the race. The tubing under the hood gets heat soaked. The cooler air from the intercooler cools it all down on the way into the engine. May not actually see a rise until over 15psi.

Turbo placement. Quick thing on this. It's something you may not see on the dyno with the hood open. Our turbo is mounted facing the driver side with the inlet right where the factory air box picked up cold air. At speed the area in front of the engine is usually the highest pressure area under the hood. Our inlet is under pressure from cold air between the radiator and core support. Placed anywhere else under the hood a turbo is much more likely to pick up hot air. We are also trying to fit a 90 elbow on the turbo to face forward. If we can pressurize this at the track it will fill the compressor blades better and more evenly than letting it draw in air itself. Turbos can become VERY happy when you do this.

Spool-not available on any other kit is the abilty to build room in the kit for a spool valve. Hasn't really been needed at this point even on the 88mm turbo. But there is someone out there who will want the 94mm with the largest turbine and housing. This will do the job of kick starting it until someone figures out a transbrake on these things.

Tuning- O2 placement- we moved the O2's after the turbo like it should be. To make sure the ecu reads the O2's correctly you need modify the hex code which SCT can't do. We paid the money to have it changed. That shit ain't cheap lol. When you move the O2 location the computer can correct a bit for what it sees. Problem is when and O2 read the exhaust, it thinks it's in the collector in the stock location. When it's not, the reading is delayed, and the ecu doesn't know it. So it starts to learn the wrong corrections in the wrong spots. Our base tune has this correction made so the ecu knows the correction is made at 5k, it will see that change at .350 of a second after fuel is injected, not .05 like stock.

The maf is also close to the throttle body like it should be, just like stock. This will prevent any lean tip in or WOT transitions. Or just an delay issues like the O2's. 3.5in long tube for maf placement. The readings are rock steady.

Cutting it a bit "short" lol. But I'll just add quickly like previously mentioned that on top of the exhaust coating, turbo brace and turbo blanket in the base price, it comes with a kmember, tubular core support for the radiator, and sway bar. There's more, and these are needed for install, but have merit and are a bonus in my eyes. They are an upgrade you might want later. Unlike the fans or remote expansion that are also included. Well the expansion tank could be an upgrade. But only for blower owners :)
 
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SignalZero

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Got any pics of the fan? How does it wire in?

Nice explanation BTW! :beer:
 

CPRsm

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DAMN that's one ugly avatar LOL

See if I can find/get a pic of the fans. It's a dual 11in setup with a large shroud we've had very good luck with.

Wiring is pretty easy. Basically cut the wiring and extend it to the new setup.

Oh and another obvious which I totally forgot to mention. My kit will take longer to install because of the longer parts list. But it's not a difficult install I think. If you can install a kmember or long tubes your skill level should be enough for this. The headers are easier to install than long tubes by a long shot. The instructions is a HD video. Hopefully it will make it easier to understand the position of things. Which bolts to install first to hol the header to make it easier, which end goes in first and from where, etc.
 

rsb5772

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The worst part for me will be pulling my long tubes off. Should go a little quicker than the first time since ill have the k-member out of the way, cuz this comes with one!
 

CPRsm

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Honestly, I don't know yet. I will vary a bit by intercooler type. A/W are going to be the lightest in the nose, but probably heavier overall. By how much will depend on how big of a tank you run. Guys are running 5-12 gallon tanks. When I move these kits I should have a better idea though.
 
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CPRsm

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I couldn't get anything decent on the fans signalzero. Needed to move a car from under the rack to bring 'er down. I'm ordering more of them soon and can take a pic soon for ya.
 

Tuffnuts23

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Ugghhh. I really want this kit. I've pretty much been threatened with castration and divorce if I pull the trigger on this.
 

CPRsm

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Tis easier to ask for forgiveness. Or you can just blame it on me like everyone else does.
I won't tell you the install and price if you get one. :eek: I'd like to make a few changes in the intructions w the changes to the kit.
 

rsb5772

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Tis easier to ask for forgiveness. Or you can just blame it on me like everyone else does.
I won't tell you the install and price if you get one. :eek: I'd like to make a few changes in the intructions w the changes to the kit.

I know I'm blaming Dustin!

"Babe, he didn't tell me I need all this other stuff, to get the turbo to work!"
 

Stevedotmil

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This sounds like a real great new option for the boost hunters out there, myself included. I'm glad there are other guys out there making turbo kits and improving on mistakes made by the other guys. Subscribed.
 

SignalZero

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I couldn't get anything decent on the fans signalzero. Needed to move a car from under the rack to bring 'er down. I'm ordering more of them soon and can take a pic soon for ya.

No problem. Thanks for lookin :beer: I heard them in a vid and it sounds like those little bastards are moving some air for sure!

What kinda option have you come up with for an 80mm? I remember comments on foreplay (giggity) and I must agree its better for the street.
 

CPRsm

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I know I'm blaming Dustin!

"Babe, he didn't tell me I need all this other stuff, to get the turbo to work!"
Just as long as I never have to meet her we're good!! :D

This sounds like a real great new option for the boost hunters out there, myself included. I'm glad there are other guys out there making turbo kits and improving on mistakes made by the other guys. Subscribed.
Thanx dude. We'll have some more numbers and times from stock and modified engines soon.



No problem. Thanks for lookin :beer: I heard them in a vid and it sounds like those little bastards are moving some air for sure!
Yeah they do. I'm not sure how much you can hear with the hood closed. Coming from classics, we were always looking for a better fan setup. I've tried all the 16in fans there are, black magic fan, and about every other setup out there. Twin spal 12in work very well but couldn't get them to fit. So went to a private label no name fan that everyone labels as theirs. 11 dual setup with a good size fan and fits better in a lot of things. They've done a good job of keeping 1100rwhp+ setups cool even in Tx!

What kinda option have you come up with for an 80mm? I remember comments on foreplay (giggity) and I must agree its better for the street.
Just enough foreplay to where you think "this isn't so bad...." Then WHAMO lol.
That 80mm so far has made just shy of 1300rwhp. That was on a 363 LS. With our engine size we are probably good for another 50hp or so I'd think. That will fit in this frame along with the 83mm they are testing as well. We are going to be testing a few more turbos for the base. But the difference between the 75-83mm is 50 dollars. The billet 75mm fits the cover without machine work. The larger compressors require machine work to the cover, hence the charge. But all the billet compressor wheels are the same price.

I'll also be doing an exchange program when I have used AR housings in stock. This way you guys can experiment with how much foreplay you want vs what it will run at the track. Personally I don't mind more that you would see on the dyno. I gots tricks to get it spooled on the street. So if we have a used one here, you can send ur old one back w 65 bucks and test out the new size.
 

CPRsm

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Ok, I can post some in progress pics. Only building air to water kits right now. Cleaned my guy out lol
 

Sof Top

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Ok, I can post some in progress pics. Only building air to water kits right now. Cleaned my guy out lol

I just need more motivation(pictures), Im half way on the money(sold the paxton)...LOL
 
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CPRsm

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Three of these are the big boy intercoolers.
image-15.jpg



Two 1000hp garrett cores stacked together. Here's big boy just getting started
image-17.jpg



Some headers, and some charge tubing to the right.
image-16.jpg




One of my home depot style shelves full of tubing.
There is maf tubing for Boss, MMR and stock intakes, along w 2 of 5 down pipe sections. All one piece, for my sanity sake.
image-18.jpg




Sample of a shit ton of collectors I got in lol
image-19.jpg



Here's the same AR housing size of 1.1 in a T4 vs T6. Prett stupid huh? Lol

image-20.jpg




A few sections of down pipe already finished up.

image-21.jpg


Anything else lemme know. :rockon:
 
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