2012 GT Track Car Build Thread

Double0fox

2 extra cylinders
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So I am still trying to get caught up to where I am currently at. Last year towards the end of summer I had a local Mustang show close to me. And while I don't do "shows" cause I am not really a park it, and clean it guy, I went to look at other Mustangs. Hoping I would run into other track driven Mustangs(no dice). I did get to drool over a 26 mile 2000 Cobra R(on my list to have one of these days). So all was not lost for that day. And I got a couple "current" shots of my car at that time.

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2000 R
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While all that was going on though I ordered everything to run a Peterson catch can/Breather to take place of the V3 JLT can. I was worried about the JLT filling up after seeing a lot of stories of that happening.

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Right after the show I went to installing the catch can setup. With the bracket they send, you would just drill it into the firewall (if that is where you wanted it mounted). I wanted to make it a "no drill" design, which I have no clue why. I drilled a dozen holes for the Watson Roll Bar, but ya.

Using advanced engineering techniques:
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"Rough draft"
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Used more advanced fabricating.....hitting it with a hammer.
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Getting there.
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Used some sharp objects:
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Can't really see the bracket, but it does what I wanted it to do. Decently sturdy.

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sonicx

Norwegian Southern
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@Double0fox. Nice build thread you got here going. Love the tasteful additional s you’ve included in the write -up. You doing some black 5.0 badging. Did it with my RR GT, it looks good.
 

Double0fox

2 extra cylinders
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I had actually bought the Cobra Jet intake/throttle body/CAI a little after I bought the car, but after the K-member issues I put off installing it. But I finally had some time to chat with Lund, and got a initial tune, and put everything on. Install is pretty strait forward. The only two things to deal with are re-pinning the TPS connector, and the fuel tank vapor purge valve hose lengthening. You can use a Boss manifold kit, but I used a lengthened hose.

Stocky stock:
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Super Cobra Jet Throttle Body
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Obviously one of the things you have to do is re-pin the connector for the TPS. Not hard at all.
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Just fits under the BMR Strut Brace with about 1/4"-3/8" of clearance. Hard to tell in this pic.
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The only thing I don't like so far is how close the degas bottle is in relation to the JLT intake (like 1/8" close). I think I am going to make a bracket to space the bottle to the left about a 1/2". Then all should be good. Haven't had it on a dyno yet. I actually need to have some revisions to the tune done still. It's just been hard to get out with it lately.
 
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TerminatoRS

Farts are funny.
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At the very least, that's a great looking under-hood shot! I'm not usually a big supporter of spending extra cash for a carbon fiber tube, but it sure does look pretty right there.
 

Double0fox

2 extra cylinders
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At the very least, that's a great looking under-hood shot! I'm not usually a big supporter of spending extra cash for a carbon fiber tube, but it sure does look pretty right there.
Shhh don't tell anyone but, it's just JLT's Hydro Dipped tube they offered for a while.
 
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Double0fox

2 extra cylinders
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I was going into last winter when I started to think about going to a full on race brake system. I knew the Boss calipers would suit me fine to get this car out on track for some fun, but I want to mitigate a few things if possible. One is brakes. I want to never have to worry about brakes. Two is keeping oil, and coolant temps in check as much as possible. I have talked to a few guys racing the S197 Coyote, and a few of them wheel to wheel with the S550 PP brake calipers, with good pads/rotors of course, and have seen great life/performance with them. So I ended up finding a good deal on them, and away I went. So I ordered S550 Calipers, 2014 Gt500 Discs (correct offset for the calipers), Goodridge stainless lines (Back & Front). At the same time I also added a adapter bracket to run GT500 rear discs. As for the second of my concerns with the cooling I will get that updated soon, as I am in the process of that now.
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Adding the mounting brackets to the front lines:
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The difference in pads size from the Boss pad to the S550PP Pad is almost comical. Huge difference!
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Factory Rears:
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Rear Disc Difference in Size:

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Bleeding the system:

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And my dog Scooby thinking that he is helping:

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ronjon

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Hi there, great job with your in just a short time. I have the exact same car with 17k miles. My car has the red interior and is in mint shape and noticed yours has black. Would you be interested in doing a swap? If not, would you consider selling your black interior? If you are not interested in the interior what about your steering wheel? Would you consider selling it? I know this is all a long shot but I figured I would ask. My home number is 228 354 0057 and cell is 228 547 5218.
Thanks,
Ronnie
 

Double0fox

2 extra cylinders
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Hi there, great job with your in just a short time. I have the exact same car with 17k miles. My car has the red interior and is in mint shape and noticed yours has black. Would you be interested in doing a swap? If not, would you consider selling your black interior? If you are not interested in the interior what about your steering wheel? Would you consider selling it? I know this is all a long shot but I figured I would ask. My home number is 228 354 0057 and cell is 228 547 5218.
Thanks,
Ronnie

Sorry at this point I am keeping the seats/interior.
 

Double0fox

2 extra cylinders
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So now this was about February. I still had quite a few things I wanted to get knocked out before the start of the season (unaware of the coronavirus crap storm headed my way), and started to go at them. One was switching over to a 5W-50 for track. So I ordered up some oil, and filters. I also wanted to finally throw the long tubes back on after the problems I originally had when I installed them that ended up having to do with the Oil pan to K-member clearance.

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Also a few months back I ordered some GT500 mufflers. Now I can switch out the RTR Comp Axlebacks to put the long tubes, and x-pipe back on. The RTR's with stock exhaust sound awesome, but with no cats, and long tubes was so amazingly loud I took the long tubes/x-pipe back off. I mean like Really loud!

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And before I put the long tubes back on I wrapped them with DEI wrap. 2 things on this. 1- I wish I had gone with the titanium wrap that they have. I had 3 x 50' rolls of this I had bought for something else at the end of last year, and didn't end up using. 2- I wasn't able to wrap the BBK's like I would have liked. Most of the primary tubes were too close in several places to wrap each individually. So I may end up hating myself for doing this down the road. Only time will tell. Some of the things I did do was in addition to the stainless steel ties I used saftey wire to secure the wrap, and then sprayed multiple coats of DEI's high temp silicon sealant on them. I wanted to test fit everything but will also wrap the x-pipe as well down the road.

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I also gave the starter a little (not sure if it will make a difference) heat shield. I may buy a actual heat shield cover in the future.

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Stock stuff out..................again.

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Back on the car. This pic looks like the header has no clearance, but there is actually probably around .750"-1.0" there.

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Double0fox

2 extra cylinders
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So next on the list of never ending things to do was to address the strut tower openings. I know at some point I would need more negative Camber than I was able to get with the factory hole sizes. The strut nut was already making a witness mark on the inner diameter of the strut opening. I went ahead, and grabbed the fixture tool for Vorshlag, and a 2,3/4" hole saw, and went to work.

If you look close you can see the witness mark from the nut.
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I tried to contain the most amount of chips as I could because I am lazy and don't want to clean up. I tapped a bag under the opening to catch anything. With the fixture plate in place, the plate almost catches all the chips from falling (until you unbolt it). I used a shop vac before I unbolted it, and nothing really fell below. When I went at breaking the sharp edges with the Dremel, that's when the bag became useful.

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Before breaking the sharp edges:

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Before, and after:

Before maxed out to the strut opening:
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Maxed out of the MM caster camber plate.
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I am doing a load of other things right now, and have not put the K-member back on yet. So no alignment, or max camber number yet, but will update when I get all that done.
 

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