2013 5.0 GT will not reset O2/Catalyst Emission Monitors

[DD2000GT]

I have researched this issue for days, and performed the Ford Drive Cycle a few times - I cannot get my Catalyst, O2, and O2 heater monitors to go to the Ready state. I got the car used, so I am not 100% sure what had been done to it, but I know bolt-on mods are on it. It has a K&N cold air system and box, and Flowmaster after axle mufflers. The rest of the exhaust is stock and the cats/O2 sensors are there. Not sure if there is a tune on it, but doubt it. I can see the downstream O2 sensor voltage on my bluetooth OBDii reader and Torque app, but no upstream O2 sensors (due to it being wideband and Torque does not register this). I have put almost 1,000 miles in stop and go as well as open highway driving (staying under 60 mph as the drive cycles require).

The car sit for several months, and when I tried to start it the instrument panel wigged out due to a very low battery that went bad. Not sure if that hurt anything(?) I replaced the battery, but cannot get the damn thing inspected or registered because the last three monitors have shown incomplete for weeks. I am not sure if I need to reset the PCM again by pulling the battery cables and discharging as i would SURE hate to spend weeks again just finding out that did not help. Does the PCM stop trying to perform these tests after a certain period or number of tries requiring a reset?

Any other ideas?

 

[DD2000GT]

Since I did not get any hits on my post, I decided to take it back to the dealer since a few more "by the book" Ford drive cycles did not resolve the issue. He did ask when I dropped it off if it had a tune and I told him "I" did not put a tune on it, but it was a certified pre-owned vehicle we purchased from them about a year ago and I "assumed" they verified the stock tune was in place... I got a call the next day saying it is ready to pick up. I asked what they did and was told "the tech just drove it for 10 minutes and all monitors changed to ready". I told the service adviser right then that did not sound right as I have driven the drive cycles for over a month and about 1k miles.

I picked up the car and checked the monitors with my OBD scanner - sure enough, they were all ready. Started to take off and it was all I could do to feather the clutch to keep it from bucking. Hmmmm. Got on the highway and it felt like I was towing a 10k lb. trailer behind me (low on power), also at a steady RPM I could feel the engine surging constantly. Coming up on a car I lifted my foot from the accelerator pedal expecting it to engine brake and slow down as normal, and the RPMs stayed high like the accelerator pedal was stuck - I almost hit the back of the car before I hit my brakes. At my exit at a stop light, the idle was hunting all around and almost died on me on one stumble. Something was not right. It almost feels like I need to run an idle and PCM relearn(?)

I called the dealer back this morning and told the service adviser about the changes, and I was pretty sure the PCM had been reflashed. I told him I did not care, but as the owner I needed to know this info, and if he would please go back and talk to the tech and verify. No return call...

Anyway, I 'think" my used GT had an aftermarket tune and that is why the monitors would not ready. Sucks too, because the "old" GT ran a hell of a lot better than what I an seeing now! But, at least it is inspected now.

 

[Sizeth3]

Since I did not get any hits on my post, I decided to take it back to the dealer since a few more "by the book" Ford drive cycles did not resolve the issue. He did ask when I dropped it off if it had a tune and I told him "I" did not put a tune on it, but it was a certified pre-owned vehicle we purchased from them about a year ago and I "assumed" they verified the stock tune was in place... I got a call the next day saying it is ready to pick up. I asked what they did and was told "the tech just drove it for 10 minutes and all monitors changed to ready". I told the service adviser right then that did not sound right as I have driven the drive cycles for over a month and about 1k miles.

I picked up the car and checked the monitors with my OBD scanner - sure enough, they were all ready. Started to take off and it was all I could do to feather the clutch to keep it from bucking. Hmmmm. Got on the highway and it felt like I was towing a 10k lb. trailer behind me (low on power), also at a steady RPM I could feel the engine surging constantly. Coming up on a car I lifted my foot from the accelerator pedal expecting it to engine brake and slow down as normal, and the RPMs stayed high like the accelerator pedal was stuck - I almost hit the back of the car before I hit my brakes. At my exit at a stop light, the idle was hunting all around and almost died on me on one stumble. Something was not right. It almost feels like I need to run an idle and PCM relearn(?)

I called the dealer back this morning and told the service adviser about the changes, and I was pretty sure the PCM had been reflashed. I told him I did not care, but as the owner I needed to know this info, and if he would please go back and talk to the tech and verify. No return call...

Anyway, I 'think" my used GT had an aftermarket tune and that is why the monitors would not ready. Sucks too, because the "old" GT ran a hell of a lot better than what I an seeing now! But, at least it is inspected now.

This really bothers me. I know someone who traded in a v6 car with gears and a Diablosport tune, that was back on the lot a week later for sale as CPO. I bet you had a tune and they removed it, I would get in writing that they did in the event you have any warranty issues down the road.

 

[GBCoyote]

Or pay a tuner 200 bucks to tune it correctly and stop having to dick around with the dealer and their crap. I'd rather eat a warm bowl of poop than deal with those people.

 

[Zemedici]

As stated above, get it tuned for your mods, and you'll be good - emissions ready AND not having a bucking bronco for a car. Two birds one stone

 

[DD2000GT]

As stated above, get it tuned for your mods, and you'll be good - emissions ready AND not having a bucking bronco for a car. Two birds one stone

Yep - I always intended to tune it since I bought it and have been researching which tuner I want to go with - but you DO NOT want to throw a tune on it "thinking" it is stock when in fact there is another tune already there. A good way to really mess up your PCM. At least now, if I am correct, I have the stock tune to save and restore if I ever sell or take back to the dealer. I will attempt AGAIN to get the dealer to tell me definitively what they did. Not sure why all the secrecy?

 

[DD2000GT]

An update on my never ending saga on this car. I took it back to the dealer and requested the car to be re-flashed with the stock tune. Their head service guy asked why, and I told him I wanted to put a tune on it and need to ensure the base is the stock tune. He said to just let him look at it and see why it bucks in 1st gear and has the RPM hang when you lift off the gas. Had it for two days and called me and said he discovered this car has a FRPP 90mm throttle body on it as well (this is a new to me used car and I have no idea what was modded on it, I am discovering as I go). I "think" if it had a tune on it when I got it, and they reverted back to stock tune this would cause this symptom(?) However, they still will not say they re-flashed to stock, but the "tech" said he was SURE the stock tune was on it...

A few questions - without knowing "exactly" what tune is on my car, can I just get a tuner, save the current tune, then reflash with a tune for my mods? Also, if they put a 90mm throttle body, they "might" have swapped out the injectors as well. How can I tell what injectors are on there now so I can add this to the tune mod list?

TIA

 

[jn2]

It does not matter what tune is on the car right now. As long as the file is not locked, your tuner can pull the file and make the necessary changes.

 

[DD2000GT]

Updating - because I like to research issues myself and when there is a resolution it is good to know what fixed it...

What I know - the GT I bought used had a CAI and FRPP 90mm TB (along with FRPP lowering springs, a Flowmaster Outlaw after axle mufflers, JLT oil catch, BOSS valve covers, and maybe more I have not discovered). It ran great when I first got it, but would not ready the emission monitors after a battery swap - so it had to have had a tune on it.

What I "think" - when I took it to the dealer because of the monitors, they flashed it back to stock to resolve the issue. They refused to tell me they did this however because the car was bought from them and a "Certified Pre-Owned" car and they did not want to say it had a warranty-voiding tune on it. Plus, if they broke something flashing it back to stock they could deny. But - the car surged horribly in first gear when cold and RPS hung for ~2 sec. when you lifted, also, fuel economy dropped from 24 highway to 16 after the dealer visit.

What I did - bought a SCT tuner with preloaded Bama V2 93 octane performance tune configured for the CAI and 90mm TB. Yes, my research showed the Bama tunes were pretty pedestrian, but if I go with the AED tune I want in the future I needed the SCT tuner anyway...

What I discovered - holy shit does the car run better now! No bucking, better idle, and butter smooth pedal response. Seat of the pants gains of just a bit, but the drivability is now enjoyable - hell I dare say fun again. So, in the end - the stock tune on the FRPP TB was the cause - all of this unknown to me or refused to be divulged. I may just stick with this Bama tune if the datalogging shows safe A/F ratios - it made that much difference.

Glad for two things - this nightmare if finally over - and it is a nice sunny fall day here in Texas to datalog my new tune!

Cheers all, and thanks for the assistance.

 

[Mojo88]

Sorry to reactivate 'old' thread, but I am desperate. I am having this issue on 2010 Roush GT that I recently bought. I disconnected the battery to do some work last week, and then failed emissions a couple of days ago due to monitors (four of them) not being reset. I have driven over 100 miles in last 24 hours, going through all kinds of cycling that I found in various places online, but no joy. Four monitors still not active.

I have 30 days to get the car 'repaired', but am very worried about the tune that is in the vehicle. I do not know if the 'problem' is in the tune (it's not the original Roush tune), or if it's because I disconnected the battery.

Can anyone offer some guidance at all? Should I try a full week of driving through more cycles, and then panic? Or should I panic now, LOL?

Man, this stuff was a whole lot easier before all the computerized gadgetry.

Please help!

 

[jn2]

Panic now, find out who tuned it and what all they did in the tune. NO amount of drive cycles will work if they disabled the monitors or didn't set the tune up correctly.

The drive cycles can be done over a day, one them requires turning the car on when ECT is within 10*f of ambient...

 

[Mojo88]

Panic now, find out who tuned it and what all they did in the tune. NO amount of drive cycles will work if they disabled the monitors or didn't set the tune up correctly.

The drive cycles can be done over a day, one them requires turning the car on when ECT is within 10*f of ambient...

Can you please tell me where to find a list of the "drive cycles" that will help reset the monitors?

I went to local Mustang race guru and he checked the monitors. He says they ARE enabled and they just need to be reset by driving. The guy is very experienced on these cars, yet he could not provide me with specific details on the "drive cycles". He said to make sure I do a lot of different driving, and a few long trips, etc, but nothing specific, and he seems confident they will reset. Me, I'm not so confident, I'm worried, hahahhhaa.

Thanks VERY much!

 

[imeyers302]

You can use an app called torque and a $20 bluetooth obd2 box and check to see the readiness of the monitors. I had a similar problem with mine. Tune had them set to not applicable. Spoke to my tuner and he sent me a tune with them turned back on. Drove car for about 65 miles over a few days and the app showed that they reset and were ready. Took the car in next day and it passed no problem.

 

[Mojo88]

You can use an app called torque and a $20 bluetooth obd2 box and check to see the readiness of the monitors. I had a similar problem with mine. Tune had them set to not applicable. Spoke to my tuner and he sent me a tune with them turned back on. Drove car for about 65 miles over a few days and the app showed that they reset and were ready. Took the car in next day and it passed no problem.

Thanks, my local race tuner does Mustangs only, and he says my monitors are ready. I screwed them up by disconnecting battery. They just need to be "drive cycled". He could not give me explicit instructions for each required "drive cycle". So that's where I'm stuck at present.

I have a pretty good diagnostic tool called 'AutoEnginuity' and that shows the readiness of the monitors. Currently showing four monitors not ready, ugh.

Did your app give you any instructions on how to do a "drive cycle"?

Thanks

 

[imeyers302]

I did not even bother driving myself crazy with the drive cycles. Just did a mix of around town driving and a few highway cruises. I figured sooner or later it would reset. I guess if you are looking to do it faster you can do the drive cycle thing.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

 

[Mojo88]

I did not even bother driving myself crazy with the drive cycles. Just did a mix of around town driving and a few highway cruises. I figured sooner or later it would reset. I guess if you are looking to do it faster you can do the drive cycle thing.

http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html

Thanks! I wouldn't be in a rush at all, except I failed the state emissions test and now have only 30 days to get it fixed, otherwise they start assaulting me with all kinds of threats and penalties. It's a real fiasco to deal with the RI DMV.

 

[imeyers302]

Thanks! I wouldn't be in a rush at all, except I failed the state emissions test and now have only 30 days to get it fixed, otherwise they start assaulting me with all kinds of threats and penalties. It's a real fiasco to deal with the RI DMV.

Mine was almost a year wired by the time I got it all worked out after installing the procharger. Was pulled over once but no ticket.

 

[DD2000GT]

I just posted a thread about this. What I have discovered is with the stock tune all monitors go to "Ready" or "Complete" within 30 miles and mixed city, highway driving. I followed the Ford Drive Cycle process to a T and could not get my monitors to go ready after several hundred miles and many start cycles with the Bama tune - found out, it was the tune (even though their own website says it does not affect this). Switched back to stock tune and all sensors were read and complete within 15 minutes of just regular driving (not following the Ford Drive Cycle process).