2013 lower fogs at a ridiculous price!

[Chaney5.0]

Glass might crack with 55w bulbs and they were more for looks over just the plain inserts. They'll stand out more once i get my grilles on and the upper fogs are hidden

Been installing and running HIDS on dozens of cars. That whole "55 watt" is too hot, and will crack/melt the lense/housing is a bunch of BS. Those are VERY extreme cases... Stock HIDS in these cars are 35ws and have a very close operating temp to 55ws.

You'd be perfectly fine.

Personally if you're adding lights, I would want lights that actually do something.

They do look good though!:rockon:

 

[turd burglar]

My buddy's Yukon had 55w hid fogs and the plastic got drippy and melted within a week of install lol

 

[Chaney5.0]

My buddy's Yukon had 55w hid fogs and the plastic got drippy and melted within a week of install lol

Guessing they were Ebay blue hids? 8000ks+? As in 8000k lumens lol Of course that crap is going to do that LOL. Get correct HIDS in a color temp that you can actually use and you'd be golden :banana:

 

[turd burglar]

Ddm tuning hids. They're hit and miss but I've aways had good luck with em

 

[dirtyd88]

Ddm tuning hids. They're hit and miss but I've aways had good luck with em

I'd still recommend a set from TRS before DDM.

 

[ViciousJay]

Ddm tuning hids. They're hit and miss but I've aways had good luck with em

same here, im running 5K's for my head lamps right now, they work perfect!!! as for the fogs, im glad i held out and didnt get them. I might still try to make a custom upper open grill while retaining the stock fogs, it will be alot of work and using plastic epoxy but it might just be worth it. Anyone have the stock fog bulb number, id like to match them up to my head lights a little better

 

[dirtyd88]

same here, im running 5K's for my head lamps right now, they work perfect!!! as for the fogs, im glad i held out and didnt get them. I might still try to make a custom upper open grill while retaining the stock fogs, it will be alot of work and using plastic epoxy but it might just be worth it. Anyone have the stock fog bulb number, id like to match them up to my head lights a little better

H11 for the lower fogs, IIRC

BTW, if the weekend weather cooperates down here in Texas, I may try and finally wire my lights up. oke:

 

[ViciousJay]

H11 for the lower fogs, IIRC

BTW, if the weekend weather cooperates down here in Texas, I may try and finally wire my lights up. oke:

i mean the stockers int he middle

 

[5lho]

in a similar vein, I needed to make the shitty '12 halogen grille fogs worth a damn so, I installed a 35 watt HID kit on those. I can't use them in town anymore as people get irritated but, holy, they work on dark roads now.

I also figured out a no-cut workaround to allow me to use the fogs and highs at the same time. After the HID install, the way it was wired factory, the foglights dipping when the highs went on, it was like someone turned out the lights with the factory HID headlights alone.

Here's a pic or two:

IMG_0896_zps92428e61.jpg Photo by 5lho | Photobucket

IMG_0898_zps2729bc14.jpg Photo by 5lho | Photobucket

 

[dirtyd88]

i mean the stockers int he middle

I don't think there is a bulb number. They are an actual LED board attached to the housing.

 

[Bullitt 3309]

in a similar vein, I needed to make the shitty '12 halogen grille fogs worth a damn so, I installed a 35 watt HID kit on those. I can't use them in town anymore as people get irritated but, holy, they work on dark roads now.

I also figured out a no-cut workaround to allow me to use the fogs and highs at the same time. After the HID install, the way it was wired factory, the foglights dipping when the highs went on, it was like someone turned out the lights with the factory HID headlights alone.

I would like to see this solution as the Smart Bus controls the fogs. That is why they go off when hibeams on.

 

[ViciousJay]

I don't think there is a bulb number. They are an actual LED board attached to the housing.

dang! :mj:

 

[dirtyd88]

That is what I remember from when I took mine off when I installed the lower fogs.

Plus, I'm pretty sure the housing is too shallow for a bulb to be retrofitted anyways.

 

[5lho]

I would like to see this solution as the Smart Bus controls the fogs. That is why they go off when hibeams on.

I know...I wasn't willing to pull pins, cut wires and relay the crap out of it to get this working. I figured there had to be a less invasive way. It was easy once I figured it out.

Find a nice 30 amp blade in the fuse panel (there's a couple ones that are hot and unused) or run off the battery, fused positive to the lamp positive side with a quick tap (you should only need one as both lamps are on the same circuit). Breach that circuit and run it to the interior through the sound tube hole and switch it there with a little accessory switch carefully hidden. I put a stubby one next to the OBD2 port as there is handy screw there to mount a bit of drilled flat stock to. You can do this very neatly with a bit of cable cover and some elec tape to run it along the hood latch release cable.

When you switch this on, you drive power to the power side of the lamp, which is the side of the circuit the SJB switches. Your power replaces the switched off power and the lamps stay lit. It's all the time though, as you've circumvented the factory switch when yours is on. You also need to remember to turn it off, as it's on battery power.

I would have put it on switched power but, I couldn't find a circuit switched nearby I was sure could handle the load.

Here's a kind of wiring diagram:

Battery or panel--------------interior switch------------lamp positive

 

[dirtyd88]

I know...I wasn't willing to pull pins, cut wires and relay the crap out of it to get this working. I figured there had to be a less invasive way. It was easy once I figured it out.

Find a nice 30 amp blade in the fuse panel (there's a couple ones that are hot and unused) or run off the battery, fused positive to the lamp positive side with a quick tap (you should only need one as both lamps are on the same circuit). Breach that circuit and run it to the interior through the sound tube hole and switch it there with a little accessory switch carefully hidden. I put a stubby one next to the OBD2 port as there is handy screw there to mount a bit of drilled flat stock to. You can do this very neatly with a bit of cable cover and some elec tape to run it along the hood latch release cable.

When you switch this on, you drive power to the power side of the lamp, which is the side of the circuit the SJB switches. Your power replaces the switched off power and the lamps stay lit. It's all the time though, as you've circumvented the factory switch when yours is on. You also need to remember to turn it off, as it's on battery power.

I would have put it on switched power but, I couldn't find a circuit switched nearby I was sure could handle the load.

Here's a kind of wiring diagram:

Battery or panel--------------interior switch------------lamp positive

What I really want to do is somewhat complicated with involving a series of relayed relays. :lol1: Plus I don't really want to install a switch unless I can make it easily accessible while driving, and hidden/factory.

Basically I want to be law abiding and have now more then 4 forward illuminating lights on my vehicle...

I want the grill fog lights to be on the same circuit as the headlights, so all 4 come on at the same time, then the lower fogs will be tapped into the existing fog wiring. However, I want to have the ability to turn off the grill fog lights when I'm in town and what not, which is where the switch comes in.

Not really all that hard now that I've typed it out and reread it. :bash:


*Excuse Any Grammar or Spelling Errors*
Tapatalkin' on the iPhone

 

[5lho]

Nobody'd know there's an extra switch in my car unless I told them where to look. it's invisible and readily accessible from the driver's seat where I located it. The fogs operate per factory spec when the switch isn't activated. Important for me since the grille fogs are my DRLs.

You're basically looking at rewiring the headlight and foglight circuits, as it's unlikely the extant wiring, especially if you don't have the factory HIDs, will support running four lights without a fire.

Not that hard and redoing it all sort of makes some things easier. You could still use the existing HL circuit to become your low power trigger for the relays.

 

[Ultrakla$$ic]

I'm going to splice mine into my side marker lights, that way I can still manually operate my fogs.

WWW.S197FORUM.COM

 

[dirtyd88]

Nobody'd know there's an extra switch in my car unless I told them where to look. it's invisible and readily accessible from the driver's seat where I located it. The fogs operate per factory spec when the switch isn't activated. Important for me since the grille fogs are my DRLs.

You're basically looking at rewiring the headlight and foglight circuits, as it's unlikely the extant wiring, especially if you don't have the factory HIDs, will support running four lights without a fire.

Not that hard and redoing it all sort of makes some things easier. You could still use the existing HL circuit to become your low power trigger for the relays.

Would you mind posting a picture of where the switch is?

I might PM you as well about your advice how exactly how I would lay everything out.


*Excuse Any Grammar or Spelling Errors*
Tapatalkin' on the iPhone

 

[5lho]

Here ya go...it's a simple toggle switch with most of the handle clipped off with dikes. The little screw in the foreground is holding a bit of flat stock with a hole through it between the steel of the dash and the plastic. Very secure and out of the way.

IMG_0904_zps911274a7.jpg Photo by 5lho | Photobucket

As for splicing into existing circuits...you need to ensure they can handle the additional load. At least 20 amps rated, I'd say.

 

[JUIC3D]

So..I've read this thread and have a noob question.

I have the retro upper/lower grills with my fog lights removed. The plugs are currently zip tied out of the way.

Can I just cut the plugs off the existing fog lights and solder them to the new wiring harness for the new foglights? Will that retain the stock functionality? What about the bulbs in the OEM 2013 fog lights? Can I use those in the new housing or do I have to use the bulbs that come in the kit?