2014 Mustang Street N/A Build.

[Jordang]

I have been mulling around a nice street build idea and these engines remind me very much how Honda mills have been for 2 decades.

Basically, every component needs to match the other.

My idea of a basic budget N/A street build would be as follows:

2018 Manifold (CMCV lockouts)
Stock TB
PMAS CAI
Stock manifolds
Decent Tune running 91 octane. With this I expect to be about. 390-400 and still have low end.

3 inch cat back exhaust to a pair of 2018 Mufflers, (The stock 2018's have a loud exhaust stock, with no resonators it has a deep bellow and I would be curious what they sound like on 2011-2014 Car. Obviously some welding would need to be done no biggie but I might just "settle" for GT 500's I have Roush AB with no resonators now and its loud enough to get noise complaints with an offroad H or X I will have cops pulling me over just leaving lights.)

I want to maintain drivability have 400 whp and still be reliable. Long tubes are not really needed for this so I can keep the stock manifolds.

But what if I say, ran into a cheap set of 2015-2017 Cylinder heads.

They have better cams, bigger valves, stiffer springs, How much power would I be leaving on the table with them?

Honestly I have been thinking about the 2018 F-150 manifold a lot. This car is my daily driver and on the street torque is king for smiles.

Any thoughts on this?

 

[basspro302]

2018 Manifold (CMCV lockouts)
Stock TB
PMAS CAI
Stock manifolds
Decent Tune running 91 octane. With this I expect to be about. 390-400 and still have low end.

Sounds like a good setup, none of the intakes boss, cj etc I haven’t really seen kill torque. Maybee 10 or so ft.lb really low but it seems to come down to vct tuning to keep that part throttle torque. If you are all about torque slap a vmp or roush blower and enjoy lol

The 2015-17 heads will work, but the 15-17 cams will not work in a 11-14 car. If you are going to swap heads then you might as well do long tubes also.

The 2018 f150 5.0 has a 10r80 so it has way different gear ratios that the 6r80 and the mt82. The f150 manifold may make a little more torque but not by much.

If you want more low end grunt and not concerned about track times you might be better off changing the gear ratio in the rear axle.

 

[WIST2013GT]

I want to maintain drivability have 400 whp and still be reliable.

I'm not sure what this is supposed to mean, but you are talking about a VERY lightly bolted car. Neither of those things will be affected in the slightest from a manifold and intake swap..

My car with a Vortech drove like stock and never gave a single issue. I drove it daily and put 10,000 miles on it changing only the oil. Went sub 10.50s at least 8 times driven to and from the track over an hour away.

They are pretty resilient.

 

[Zemedici]

^^ this.

Just use quality parts, and get a REAL tune, from a reputable tuner.

 

[Stang Lover]

You would benefit from longtubes I would look at some speed daddy's there are relatively cheap like $200ish and find a used pypes x pipe and block a weekend off. If that's solely your goal then you'll be okay. If you're just scooting around town and not into the street scene truck manifold would be fun but power starts to drop off around 6.5ish. If you really want some smile throw a 3.73 in the rear.

 

[clinton2003]

if your looking at doing heads, you need to do long tubes. going to cheaper and beneficial long before a head swap. Heads will give gains, but will be much better gains with other supporting modifications. the 11-14 heads are fine, Shaun at AED has designed an intake only cam thats supposed to be pretty nice. Doing headers, the intake cam, and swapping the rear gear (if you are planning on staying NA, do 3.73's, if you plan on eventually doing boost, stay 3.31's) will be a nice gain. shouldnt hurt any bit of reliability as long as your get a good tune.

 

[noldevin]

if your looking at doing heads, you need to do long tubes. going to cheaper and beneficial long before a head swap. Heads will give gains, but will be much better gains with other supporting modifications. the 11-14 heads are fine, Shaun at AED has designed an intake only cam thats supposed to be pretty nice. Doing headers, the intake cam, and swapping the rear gear (if you are planning on staying NA, do 3.73's, if you plan on eventually doing boost, stay 3.31's) will be a nice gain. shouldnt hurt any bit of reliability as long as your get a good tune.

I agree with this. Not really worth touching anything else until you have longtubes. NA builds are often disappointing without them. You can probably hit your 400 mark without them, but I wouldn't expect to be much past that.

 

[Tyrod]

I have been mulling around a nice street build. I want to maintain drivability have 400 whp and still be reliable. This car is my daily driver and on the street torque is king for smiles.

Any thoughts on this?

CJ, LU 47, Stock Exhaust Manifolds, Circle D 4c, ORX, Tune and E85, will definitely meet the 400 whp goal and give lots of smiles per hour on the street.