reading through link now,
2018 Coyote swap
- Thread starter KingBlack
- Start date
do the coyotes need cats for back pressure, or am i ok running without cats, i see a few people do cat delete.
you'd be fine without cats
how strong in the 2018, i like the idea for piece of mind if nothing else of a forged rotating assembly, i know some like and some hate, but the MMR rotating assemblies look to be a good package, along with an oil pump
picking the pickup up tomorrow (tuesday), see how bad it is, soon as i get it home i will cut all the front off thats gone back to the engine, and see whats broken, and see if i can power it up, and see if it starts, or even turns over, not sure if its a fob and button start, or if it needs the key, maybe try the remote start.
well its home, front damege is off, AC was still fully charged, no visible damage to engine, the oil cooler pipe had bent slightly, knocking belt off a little, but thats back on and pipe pent out the way just enough, got to re connect power tomorrow and get it to lock guy in town to get a key sorted, then i can see if it starts.
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Looks good amigo. ( a lot of) MMR parts are basically rebranded high end parts, all from good makers. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to go with them. some may disagree, but thats how it goes.
I'm going to do a gofundme page soon to run test on stock and aftermarket rods, bolts and piston. a lot of people claim the stock bottom end can handle 7xx hp, I want to run these test to know what the limits are.
oh yes, i almost forgot, i've taken a bunch of measurements of the engine dimensions, i'll send them over to you when i triple check them.
I'm going to do a gofundme page soon to run test on stock and aftermarket rods, bolts and piston. a lot of people claim the stock bottom end can handle 7xx hp, I want to run these test to know what the limits are.
oh yes, i almost forgot, i've taken a bunch of measurements of the engine dimensions, i'll send them over to you when i triple check them.
i had a quick go at trying to turn it over with a ratchet and a socket on the crank bolt, but its locked solid, but it might have been me frightened to break something, or it could still be in drive or something from the crash, going to try and power it up and get it into N or P, and try again, it didn't come with Keys, so need to sort that out, can PATS be turned off on these 18's,
dimensions are always good, i have a file i keep vehicle and engine dimensions in, mostly old 50's 40's ford trucks,
am i right, your putting your engine in Fox body mustang, i had an 86 manual 5.0 in the UK, was great fun.
dimensions are always good, i have a file i keep vehicle and engine dimensions in, mostly old 50's 40's ford trucks,
am i right, your putting your engine in Fox body mustang, i had an 86 manual 5.0 in the UK, was great fun.
I have confirmed some months ago via an actual ford engineer that PATS can be turned of by software. Yes, its new home will be a 89 Mustang Lx 5.0 coupe. Should be a blast!
that is going to be fast, i know my 5.0 was quick for such low HP, must have been the torque, are you going turbo/supercharger or N/A,
do you know what software is needed to turn the pats off, guessing its a tune based software.
Nguage or SCT for the 18, i'm thinking Nguage
do you know what software is needed to turn the pats off, guessing its a tune based software.
Nguage or SCT for the 18, i'm thinking Nguage
well there might not appear to be damage, but engine is locked solid, and has no oil on the dipstick, but on closer inspection, i think the crossmember may have gone back a little and smashed the front of the oil pan, so i'm thinking it might be the crossmember that locking it up, or it ran long enough after smash to dump all its oil and lock up from lack of oil, keys being sorted in the next week, fingers crossed its only oil pan and not damaged the block.
well i got the 18 powered up, but it seems to not want to come out of reverse, its jammed in till i pull the little tab under the column, then i can move the gear selector, but the display doesn't change from R, any ideas what the problem could be, the cable is free and when i dieconnect it, it moves fine, but again selector display doesn't change
just seeing for the first time...that sucks...have you figured out what it is yet? hopefully nothing major
will have another go at it tomorrow, it could be the peddles are to close to floor to let me press the brake peddle enough, engine oil may have been drained to stop any risk of leak at salvage compound, looks like its only got 1045 miles on the engine and almost a full tank of fuel
how about the motor? able to turn it yet? or havent had a chance to diagnose the locked up issue?
i think its locked in reverse, not sure if that would stop it turning, but at the moment i'm working on getting into park or nutral, then i will try and turn it again.
My instincts tells me this is good news for some reason, I hope i'm right. I'll see if I can find anything and if so ill share it with you
if its not locked up, and will start, then its a good buy, $3018 ford the vehicle and $470 for keys, i think i done good, but even as a core to rebuild, its still a good price
I run a CJ/monoblade setup on my automatic Coyote. It's only for a "manual transmission" because vacuum lines and check valves from the brake booster going into the CAI elbow.
All you gotta do is put a check valve at the brake booster, plug the CAI vacuum port, and run the vacuum line into the side of the intake manifold.
i can move the shifter, but the display on the cluster just stays on R, where does it pick up the signal to change, doesn't appear to have any wires to the shifter, maybe from transmission, although when i disconnect the cable from the shifter it appears to be moving fine, can't get underneather at the moment
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