2018 intake manifold

[Coz]

Do you have the tuner (I.e. SCT)? I find it odd that he would tell you to go to AutoZone to clear a code. The tuner should be able to do that.

Before you get any tune from someone else, make sure you still have the factory tune file either in an email from your tuner or on your device tuner.

 

[96gt02]

Personally I wouldn't use VMP these days, they have been taking several weeks to get back to people on tunes. Go with either Lund or AED. And yes im sure the stock header gaskets were used instead of the BBK ones which is a good thing so I wouldn't worry about that.

 

[Jim Varrati]

Personally I wouldn't use VMP these days, they have been taking several weeks to get back to people on tunes. Go with either Lund or AED. And yes im sure the stock header gaskets were used instead of the BBK ones which is a good thing so I wouldn't worry about that.

He is about a half hour away so basically since I didn't have a tuner he said just go to auto zone to read code and let him know. I don't have the factory tune I will ask him if he can email me it. Thanks guys really appreciate this I will reach out to lund.

 

[LubekingB]

ok so here we go pictures can be found here https://photos.app.goo.gl/0tKNfAMvTHLmJZH62

I will try to make a formal how do in word with the pictures integrated in or something but basically this is how it went

I prepped the 2018 intake by removing all the crap on the back of it for IMRC
If you don't already know 11-14's do not have IMRC so this stuff MUST be removed for our cars
You will need c clip pliers to remove a couple of c clips in the back as well as a T25 torx bit to remove the 8 screws
Using (1) 11" ziptie I locked the passenger side IMRC open
Using (1) 8" ziptie I locked the drivers side IMRC open
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the back of the intake
Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the front of the intake
I have a custom PCV setup so I simply reused the PCV cap from the procharger setup and used the supplied worm clamp

Next you will need to remove your stock intake & fuel rails
If you haven't done so already remove your strut tower brace(if so equipped) and your engine cover
To do this unclip the fuel pump module in your trunk near your spare tire
Go into the vehicle and attempt to start it, mine typically doesn't start, yours might start and then die, then try starting again, this will relieve the majority of fuel pressure in the rails
Undo the intake at the TB and move to the side
Unplug the EVAP connector, Throttle body connector and the fuel rail(make sure to put a rag under the fuel rail connection to catch excess fuel)
Remove the (4) 10mm nuts holding down the vacuum line to the brake canister and unplug this line near the Throttle body, you will need some needle nose pliers for this more than likely I used some 90* needle nose and they work flawlessly.
Remove the passenger & driver side heater hose standoffs and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the Injector rail insulators and set to the side they will be reused
Remove the (4) 8?mm bolts holding the injector rails down
Remove the injector rails w/injectors and put to the side, be careful as there will still be quite a bit of fuel in the rail that can come out of the feed portion if you hold it wrong during removal
Remove the (6) 8?mm bolts holding the intake down, these bolts are permanently connected to the intake via sleeves so don't worry about them dropping anywhere.
Remove the EVAP module by removing the (2) 10?mm bolts and the factory hose and set to the side
Start removing the intake manifold at this point, you will only be able to move it a few inches up and forward, you will need good lighting and an extra set of hands as there are (4) connections at the back that will need to be removed using a panel clip removal tool
Once removed the intake should come out fairly easily
Remove the Throttle Body from the intake by removing the (4) 8?mm bolts, you will reuse these bolts so keep them with the Throttle Body
Put the intake to the side just in case something goes wrong with your installation
Put the Throttle Body onto the 2018 intake manifold, WARNING! I had to flip mine 180* as the wiring would not reach, though I've seen others where it has reached so test fit the wiring in particular first if you plan to leave it in the stock position.

Next you will need to test fit the intake
Using an extra set of hands lower the intake into place
WARNING!!! check the clearance on the drivers side farthest front bolt, there is a coolant housing bolt that interfered with my installation and I had to dremel down my brand new intake several MM to get it to fit, you can see the issue and the clearancing in the pictures.
I only found I had to clearance it once I started tightening down the six bolts so be very careful at that drivers front bolt
Once clearanced and you've properly torqued down the intake using the specs in the pictures you can start buttoning things up
Connect the Throttle Body connector
Connect/Tighten the intake hose to the Throttle Body
Connect the Vacuum hose to the larger port on the Throttle Body(next to the PCV port)
Connect the EVAP connector to the module, position your module how you'd like and using the 3/8" hose and (2) smaller worm clamps connect the EVAP to the smaller port on the intake next to the Vacuum hose you connected in the previous step, reconnect the stock line to the EVAP module and the C Clip to hold it in place.
Reinstall the injector rails and injectors, make sure to lube the orings with a fingertip of fresh oil
Tighten down their 4 bolts
Reinstall the heater hose standoffs and vacuum hose hardline using the 4 nuts you removed earlier.
Reconnect the fuel pump module in the trunk

Next comes the tuning part
If you have a base tune to throw in do it now, obviously I use HP Tuners and do my own tuning
However once I connected the fuel pump module I ran a test, I primed the system 2x and started the car, it started, ran & idled at lambda 1.0 without issue, I have a good strong feeling the car would probably run just fine without any further modifications IMHO.
From there I simply changed the intake manifold volume from the stock value of 11.1L to the 12.5L listed in every 2018 Mustang file and flashed that in.

Took the car out for a drive, felt no noticeable loss of low end tq and SOTP felt like it pulled a little better up top, 60hp SOTP feel eh, who knows. Time will tell as theres a dyno day at the place where I dynoed the car last when I made 578/465 to the wheels so it should be a very good comparison, not the same day but at least the same dyno.

I was really hoping to work something out with the guys from the tuning school but we had conflicting schedules and I had the day off today so rather than twiddling my thumbs I figured I just do the install & write up myself.


I believe that's it but if I left anything out please let me know.[/QUOTE
I have a 13 with a p1 procharger. Just picked up the 18 mani on the cheap. It was recommended to me to get bigger injectors than the 52lb to tune this properly. Your thoughts on this?

 

[Bizarro]

So, stupid question here....
I've got a 2018 intake that I was going to install on my 2011 (IMRCs locked out) and sent the revision request over.
I received the following e-mail from them....

Jun 15, 11:21 AM EDT

Hello, (Tuner and Tuning company name) here, before we can finish writing tunes for your vehicle we need to inform you that we do not support the 18 manifold on anything but the 18 at this point in time, We have not conducted proper R&D testing of this manifold to fit on anything other than the 18. If you can return to the stock manifold we can get tunes out for you I look forward to tuning your vehicle.
(Tuning Specialists Name)

Tuning Support Specialist

Am I missing something? Is the 2018 intake unable to be tuned via data logging and working with the customer? I don't think I'm being unreasonable to think that this can be tuned....please let me know if I am. Not trying to burn anyone here...just trying to get a revision for an intake manifold?

 

[Bill@HPTuners]

So, stupid question here....
I've got a 2018 intake that I was going to install on my 2011 (IMRCs locked out) and sent the revision request over.
I received the following e-mail from them....

Jun 15, 11:21 AM EDT

Hello, (Tuner and Tuning company name) here, before we can finish writing tunes for your vehicle we need to inform you that we do not support the 18 manifold on anything but the 18 at this point in time, We have not conducted proper R&D testing of this manifold to fit on anything other than the 18. If you can return to the stock manifold we can get tunes out for you I look forward to tuning your vehicle.
(Tuning Specialists Name)

Tuning Support Specialist

Am I missing something? Is the 2018 intake unable to be tuned via data logging and working with the customer? I don't think I'm being unreasonable to think that this can be tuned....please let me know if I am. Not trying to burn anyone here...just trying to get a revision for an intake manifold?

heres the thing, if you're car already has a tune in it you likely won't need a tune for the 18, while it won't be optimized so to speak I personally don't think its necessary. Same with going to a boss on a 11-14. But if you are dead set on getting a new tune it sounds like you need to find a different tuner.

 

[Bizarro]

heres the thing, if you're car already has a tune in it you likely won't need a tune for the 18, while it won't be optimized so to speak I personally don't think its necessary. Same with going to a boss on a 11-14. But if you are dead set on getting a new tune it sounds like you need to find a different tuner.

Not dead set that I have to have one, I was under the assumption that with a new intake I would need one. If it won't do any damage or cause driveability issue, I'll install the intake and let it go until I get headers or another mod in addition.

And yes, I'm pretty much done with this company.

 

[Jim Varrati]

Guys

He is about a half hour away so basically since I didn't have a tuner he said just go to auto zone to read code and let him know. I don't have the factory tune I will ask him if he can email me it. Thanks guys really appreciate this I will reach out to lund.

96 Thank you so much that was the best advice I could have received.. I contacted Shaun at AED and he asked for data logs and hooked me up! No hesitation in low RPM's with IMRC's locked out 2017 GT with 2018 Manifold. Car runs fantastic and this is only the base tune I am estatic!!!

 

[DeepImpact]

Anyone have a link to a stockish 11-14 dyno graph before and after the swap? Or 1/4 mile speeds and et’s? Is the extra rpm usable with the stock clutch or will the sticking to the floor problem arise when trying to go over 7k? Also, what about the OPG’s? Do they need to be swapped before spinning it too high? What is too high?
Thanks. On the fence on purchasing one of these.


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[DeepImpact]

First step is an AED tune and drag tires. Intake would be next. The tune is tough because Shaun won’t give me an email tune and I just don’t have the time to take the day off of work and go to the dyno.


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[96gt02]

Guys


96 Thank you so much that was the best advice I could have received.. I contacted Shaun at AED and he asked for data logs and hooked me up! No hesitation in low RPM's with IMRC's locked out 2017 GT with 2018 Manifold. Car runs fantastic and this is only the base tune I am estatic!!!

Glad to hear, i use AED as well for my CJ setup and cars run like stock except with a ton more power

 

[96gt02]

Anyone have a link to a stockish 11-14 dyno graph before and after the swap? Or 1/4 mile speeds and et’s? Is the extra rpm usable with the stock clutch or will the sticking to the floor problem arise when trying to go over 7k? Also, what about the OPG’s? Do they need to be swapped before spinning it too high? What is too high?
Thanks. On the fence on purchasing one of these.


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From what i've seen the 18s will typically add roughly 10ish HP peak but significant gains like 30ish HP above 6500ish. And you as far as the stock clutch and OPG that's up to you with how to drive the car and the condition of the clutch as it is now, if its already shot and giving you issues above 7K i would change it, and if you plan on getting a two step or banging off the limiter OPG would be recommended as well, otherwise you don't need either.... and if it means anything to you I have stock clutch (blowfish bracket, stainless line) stock OPG and CS and spin my CJ setup to 8100 RPM without any issues shifting or from anything else and never hit the limiter.

 

[DeepImpact]

Car only has 12k on it. Got it with 10.8 and I think the original owner babied it. I am beating the crap out of it and loving it. Just have GT500’s on it so far and a drop-in K&N. Clutch shifts fine at the limiter, which I hit a lot now because it is at the stock setting. Hopefully AED will move it out of the way. I hit it in 4th at the finish line on the track and between shifts, eventhough I do blip the throttle. The clutch does hang a little though. You can feel it when you go from neutral to 1st. I just hope it isn’t beating up the trans on fast shifts. Need to install the OTA pipes and JBA h-pipe I have had for a month and then get the tune. After I run that with good tires I’ll where I am at. I want close to 11:50. Ran 12:59 bone stock on the OEM Pirelli’s, so I have a ways to go. Speed was only 110mph in the limiters. 14 Track Pack. I might just have to go Cobra Jet, but is that smog legal in Cali? Fought smog for 23 years with the Foxbody, just don’t have time for that BS anymore!


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[96gt02]

You should really try to not hit the limiter lol, otherwise get the OPG especially on a Gen 1, i've literally never hit the limiter myself so I don't plan on getting them unless I do something crazy. I'm not sure if the CJ is smog legal, Id imagine its not. Cali sucks for mods lol. And i think its going to be tough to shave a second off you time with just these mods BTW

 

[DeepImpact]

Yeah, it is a stretch. Especially since I got a 1.79 60ft on that run. My buddy has run 11.7 @ 116mph with his 14 with an offroad H and AED tune with stickies and 3.31’s. Hopefully I can get there!


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[96gt02]

Why not just tune it now so you don't keep hitting the limiting? Shaun does free tune updates for Exhaust.

 

[DeepImpact]

I am trying, but I can’t find the time to go to his shop. I have to take a day off of work, so this tune is getting expensive too!


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[DeepImpact]

Hmm, Lethal has a power pack with an 18 manifold, JLT CAI, SCT X4, and Lund tune. Maybe I'll just go with Lund since I'm not finding time to go to AED. Just trying to figure out if it is cheaper to piece it together myself. I also already have a tuner, but it was bought for my 12 Coyote F150. I would like to put it back on there with a custom tune. The canned SCT tune shifted like crap so I had to take it off. Caused a harsh 1-2 shift at light throttle.

 

[*Predator*]

I have a few questions about installing one on my 14. I had a S550 I was going to install on but recently came back to the S197. When I had my last s197 it was a 2011 and at that time the consensus was the factory cold air induction was very efficient. My question is, do I or would want an aftermarket cold air to install my 18 manifold on my 14? Or are the gains still very minimal with JLT, PMAS etc?

 

[Coz]

I can't address any HP differences between stock and aftermarket CAI but I have installed the K&N modular intake tube that also has the side benefit of doing away with the sound tube. Originally, I used the K&N drop in filter that came with the kit but recently upgraded to the AFE drop in filter that is similar to a conical filter but has sraight sides and fits into the stock recess.

Dry
https://afepower.com/afe-power-31-80179-magnum-flow-pro-dry-s-air-filter

Oiled
https://afepower.com/afe-power-30-80179-magnum-flow-pro-5r-air-filter

I don't have any Dyno results but I think it's worth considering.