2020 Gt350R Heritage Build (Track Setup)

[Hangman]

Modding is expensive, we shall never forget this.

So to start 2021 with a bang. I’m going full on into my GT350R. I debated allot of different setups and directions to go with this. And like most any build this extensive, it’s subject to changes along the way and will most certainly take months and months of testing along the way to get the car “dialed” in. I’m still in allot of research phase. I’ve been in the mopar world for the past 3 years and haven’t been back to mustangs for a while. Half mile and 1/4 mile have been fun. But ever since my dad bought me the two day Ford performance driving school, I got the road race bug.

I am going to road race this car. Locally here in Palm beach they have the Palm beach Driving Club. This gets us on the track every week for 4 hours to run as hard as we want. It’s a 2 mile track and there are a bunch of Porches and other exotics to play with. I’m in the process of getting my competition license with SCCA, im in the very beginning stages of that. Will be lots of fun. The car will have fun on the street as well. Although I already have a Hellcat running 1000 whp on street setup now and a terminator as well. So this GT350R won’t get tons of street mileage.

I want to keep weight as low as possible. So I will be measuring these parts along with the stock components to see where the gains and loss is at.

As for power levels, I do not plan on high boosting the car for the track. For track I don’t see the need for more than 700-750 whp. I would like to get it around 650-700 to start and work up from there. The idea is a very solid powerband and turbos that bring the power on smooth. Tuning will be key, and I have a good Tuner who has done some other cars of mine.

So on to the build.

The Engine will be fully built by MPR racing engines in South Florida. Going full tilt. This is a brand new engine being built separately. My stock engine is still in my car. I’ll be driving it and racing it while I’m procuring parts for this build. I’ll keep my stock engine as a backup once I make the swap. Engine will be able to hold 1600-1800 crank HP. RPM good to 8800-9000

Intake Manifold: Stock

Throttle Body: still researching, open to ideas from others.

Power Adder: Hellion Twin Turbo under mount kit. Looking at different turbo options, will be ordering in the next 2-3 weeks. My builder likes the PTE 62mm ball bearing turbos. I want something that can spool quick and work well with the RPM ranges of this car. I’m open to suggestions and am still researching this. Will be calling Hellion as well. This is primarily a road racer.

Clutch: I’m in between the Mcleoud Twin disc or the Mantic Triple disc. Will be calling Mantic to discuss road racing.

Trans: Stock tremec. We will see how it lasts.

Shifter: MGW short throw with stock knob.

Competition Motorsports Roll bar custom powder coated in Guardsman Blue.

Shelby 5 point racing harness

HANS device Ultralight carbon

Stilo ST5 2020 Carbon Helmet with integrated Ear Muffs and Mic. Racing electronics receiver, push to talk, Motorola, and roll bar mounted Antenna.

SRP Racing Pedals

Steeda Sub frame alignment kit
Steeda Vertical links
Steeda Road Race K member (around 25lb savings)
Steeda IRS support brace
Steeda Rear toe links
Steeda Rear adjustable camber arms.
Steeda Jacking rails

Tow Hook

Archangel Lithium battery 15-20 lbs savings

Driveshaft: QA1 Carbon fiber shaft. Looking at some other options. Anyone have a review on this or other options. don’t want a finicky and vibrating ride. I’ve been down the driveshaft rabbit hole on my Hellcat trying to find something that didn’t shake. Should be some weight savings in a carbon shaft also.

Titanium Brake shields

Cool Tech Brake Completion Kit

Oil Separators driver and passenger

Head Cooling mod

Auto Blip: not sure on this yet. I enjoy heel toe but if this can save seconds I might do it.

I’ll play with losing weight as the build progresses.

Possibly add carbon fiber hood and deck lid. Should be 20-30 lbs there.

Check on the front and rear bumper supports and see what they look like when the car is apart. Maybe 10-20 lbs?

Carbon ceramic rotors will get added once the stock rotors are toast. They are worth around 40 lbs.

Fuel system: Undecided

Radiator: Undecided

Caliperfection Studs: researching

Titanium Lugs: researching

I will add more or remove things as this build progresses. Estimated timeframe to completion is 3-5 months. The engine is ordered. And all the steeda stuff is ordered and few other items.

 

[SID297]

That's a sizeable list, should be fun.

 

[biminiLX]

Yeah, I’d say the road course bug has bitten you hard.
One helluva car to do it in also!
Good luck. And pics!
-J

 

[ANGREY]

Some thoughts.

1) Antigravity has better offerings for Li battery. If you want max weight savings, you can go with an ATX-20, if you want 30 Ah, you can still save the same amount of weight as the Archangel battery (and it comes with monitoring, overdraw and remote start reserve, etc).

2) The bumper supports on the GT350 are already lightweight aluminum, there's virtually no weight to save there (I already looked into this, unless you plan on doing something completely custom and unsafe, it's already pretty light).

3) The weight savings on the hood and trunk aren't what you might think. Even with the mid-tier CF hoods, you're only saving like 6 lbs or so. Every lb helps and the hood area is high value (high and forward) but just be aware it's a high $/lb savings.

4) I'd consider a battery relocation kit, from what I've read when put fully rear (on the passenger side) it's the weight balance equivalent to moving the motor back a few inches.

5) You don't mention anything about a fuel system. Granted your target power will allow you to run the OEM components, one of the failings of the OEM system is the saddle tanks and the jet syphon system that leaves the motor starved (even under N/A power) on long sweeping left hand turns. I'd strongly consider doing a surge tank or contacting me about other in tank solutions. The last thing you want to do is spend $35k on a motor and power adder combo only to smoke the engine because you starve it of fuel. Keep in mind, fuel is easy for trailer queens that rip down the drag strip, it's MUCH more complicated with IRS (aka saddle bag tank) and extended periods of high flow.

6) I have a love hate relationship with jacking rails. They're great but add weight. I think some of the jacking block solutions probably would have been better, but I'm hauling around weight all the time just for protecting the car from the jack.

 

[jvandy50]

I believe @Tob did a review of the QA1, he had good things to say IIRC.

This car will be a monster, I’ll stick around and watch. Don’t think I’ve seen many of the boosted 350s actually go to the road course/strip after power adder install. It kind of spooked me and one of the reason i traded. Love the HEP colors btw, I’m not even a stripe guy and those cars are sexy as hell to me!

 

[tomshep]

It sounds like you are going to get pretty serious with tracking this car. I am wondering why you don't buy a true race car and start with a built platform. Your project ain't gonna be cheap and you never get a return on this stuff.

Years ago I was going to buy a 95R and put a bunch of suspension, cage, motor, etc. work into it to have a fun track car. Instead, I ended up purchasing this for a comparable amount turn key. Best decision ever!

Tom

 

[Tob]

Went through your list - thorough. Somebody's been paying attention in class.

QA1 CF shaft is legit, real deal, next level. I ran one and couldn't have been more impressed with the level of detail. From resin R&D, filament winding, yoke hardware, fasteners... top notch piece. The '20 GT500 uses a CF tube from QA1. I checked the runout on mine in a few places and it was spot on. I wouldn't hesitate to add one. Did it feel different? To be completely honest - yes. Smoother than stock and I had the constant perception that it allowed the engine to flex a bit faster. Stock two-piece was ~30lbs and QA1 is ~20lbs.

 

[biminiLX]

I also am a CF shaft believer. QA1 is top shelf.
-J

 

[ANGREY]

Some things you may have missed (or forgot to write from your list).

Caliperfexion Studs (for swapping pads without taking off the caliper completely).

Radiator (The GT350 radiator is good, but with added thermal load, you might look at Mushimito or Adler

Trackspec (or equivalent) hood vents. Again, with extra heat on a hot day, your engine bay is going to want extra flow to move the heat out.

Verus Engineering Diffuser (helps with cleaning up the air in the back of the car).

Caster/Camber plates (not sure if these come on the R/HE)

Sliplo or ZL1 splitter savers (you're gonna need them more than ever if you lower the car, even if you don't really)

I'd recommend an Ngauge, simply for the 6 gauge outputs. I like to keep things like spark advance, knock retard, short term fuel trims, etc. Can access way more information than the gauge mode on your dash and let you monitor more than 3 inputs (2 center gauges and the dash).

Bunch of little things like oil drain plug, titanium lugs, Reisch T-stat, hood struts, hood pins, front bumper face pins (everyone needs them eventually), window tinting, etc.

 

[Hangman]

Thanks for the input so far. That’s exactly the stuff I am asking for.

I’ll be updating the list as the build progresses.

as for fuel system, I have 2 fore systems in my cars now. A return dual system in my terminator and triple return system in my Hellcat. Both work great.

My plan will be to run E85 the majority of the time, especially for racing.

I was seeing the that just a pump booster and injectors is good for allot of power on these cars. But I don’t mind other options.

Is fore still the best option for reliable and solid fuel delivery for the newer mustangs?

how reliable is the stock fuel system with a booster?

I was going to add the injector dynamics 1300 or 1500cc injectors to leave more room for power.

Any input on additional cooling, I see the typical name brand radiators out there. And we are definitely adding a thermostat. Any good write ups on radiator benefits? Or any other cooling modifications?

i figured on the bumper supports, thanks for the tip. They didn’t look like much when I saw a pic of them.

Some things you may have missed (or forgot to write from your list).

Caliperfexion Studs (for swapping pads without taking off the caliper completely).

Radiator (The GT350 radiator is good, but with added thermal load, you might look at Mushimito or Adler

Trackspec (or equivalent) hood vents. Again, with extra heat on a hot day, your engine bay is going to want extra flow to move the heat out.

Verus Engineering Diffuser (helps with cleaning up the air in the back of the car).

Caster/Camber plates (not sure if these come on the R/HE)

Sliplo or ZL1 splitter savers (you're gonna need them more than ever if you lower the car, even if you don't really)

I'd recommend an Ngauge, simply for the 6 gauge outputs. I like to keep things like spark advance, knock retard, short term fuel trims, etc. Can access way more information than the gauge mode on your dash and let you monitor more than 3 inputs (2 center gauges and the dash).

Bunch of little things like oil drain plug, titanium lugs, Reisch T-stat, hood struts, hood pins, front bumper face pins (everyone needs them eventually), window tinting, etc.

what are front bumper face pins? Tried googling and nothing. Not interested in the hood struts. Titanium lugs. Definitely minor mod bud can’t hurt especially since it’s on the wheels.

by oil drain plug what do you mean? Like a magnetic one or something?

I’ll be doing minor tinting on the car. Want to keep good visibility.

I’ll be checking into these studs. Caliperfexion Studs (for swapping pads without taking off the caliper completely). I’ve read about them on other builds. Sounds like something I will want to add

Thanks for your input.

 

[Hangman]

It sounds like you are going to get pretty serious with tracking this car. I am wondering why you don't buy a true race car and start with a built platform. Your project ain't gonna be cheap and you never get a return on this stuff.

Years ago I was going to buy a 95R and put a bunch of suspension, cage, motor, etc. work into it to have a fun track car. Instead, I ended up purchasing this for a comparable amount turn key. Best decision ever!

View attachment 1680880

Tom

I want a street car also. Full race car loses that street car factor. As much as I plan on road racing this car, gutting it and going full race is not something I’m after yet. Maybe as I grow into this and see where the car ends up we will find out.

buy a gt4 would have been pretty cool though!! Only 250k lol

 

[ajaf1656]

I don't have anything to add, but I'll be following this thread for sure!
What class will you be racing that allows all this?

 

[ANGREY]

Thanks for the input so far. That’s exactly the stuff I am asking for.

I’ll be updating the list as the build progresses.

as for fuel system, I have 2 fore systems in my cars now. A return dual system in my terminator and triple return system in my Hellcat. Both work great.

My plan will be to run E85 the majority of the time, especially for racing.

I was seeing the that just a pump booster and injectors is good for allot of power on these cars. But I don’t mind other options.

Is fore still the best option for reliable and solid fuel delivery for the newer mustangs?

how reliable is the stock fuel system with a booster?

I was going to add the injector dynamics 1300 or 1500cc injectors to leave more room for power.

Any input on additional cooling, I see the typical name brand radiators out there. And we are definitely adding a thermostat. Any good write ups on radiator benefits? Or any other cooling modifications?

i figured on the bumper supports, thanks for the tip. They didn’t look like much when I saw a pic of them.



what are front bumper face pins? Tried googling and nothing. Not interested in the hood struts. Titanium lugs. Definitely minor mod bud can’t hurt especially since it’s on the wheels.

by oil drain plug what do you mean? Like a magnetic one or something?

I’ll be doing minor tinting on the car. Want to keep good visibility.

I’ll be checking into these studs. Caliperfexion Studs (for swapping pads without taking off the caliper completely). I’ve read about them on other builds. Sounds like something I will want to add

Thanks for your input.

Fuel, let's see. If you're E85 at 750 wheels, you can probably get away with just a boost a pump on the factory pumps. You might need bigger injectors, but I wouldn't go 1300 or bigger until you need them. Injector sizing isn't one of those "bigger is better" items. Run them when you need them, but give your tuner the ease of tuning it with properly sized injectors.

How can I say this succinctly, Fore systems are great for drag racing applications. They're largely a "it's the best we can do" affair for street and not exactly optimal for "road racing."

With the IRS in our cars, there isn't a way to mount the tank rear and low. We have what's referred to as a saddle style tank, which means there's two reservoirs, one on each side of the driveshaft tunnel. The problem is, there's an "active" side and a passive side. The active side, where the pumps are, draw fuel and push it to the motor. The "passive" side has a pickup and a tube that's syphoned by the flow of the pumps (and a jet syphon) on the pump side. The problem is, under high demand and certain conditions, the pump bucket can become starved for fuel. When you turn left, the inertia sends the fuel up and over the crossover to the right side saddle (away from the pumps). The jet syphon can only syphon fuel so quickly and the pumps get starved for fuel. Under long sweeping left turns, or even hard left turns when you're at say less than 50% fuel level, it can send all the remaining fuel over to the passive side. Then as you exit or on your next mash, you run dry on fuel. This is why most tuners and vendors recommend you do NOT run a high hp car with a return style setup less than a certain fuel level.

Bottom line, in order to keep your expensive stuff from getting fried, you're going to need to either never run less than 3/4 of a tank at the track OR you can install lift pumps, fuel mat, surge tank, etc.

I don't think there's any data on additional cooling, but it's recommended by virtually everyone, especially if you're here in SFL where Summer temps are murderous even without the extra heat of more power.

The front clip push pins are what you see with a bunch of guys who either remove the front clip a lot or over time it just starts to sag and pull away from the attachments.
QL25

The drain plug has a few threads about it, if you get tired of breaking them and/or replacing them, just get a UPR (or there's another brand I think).

 

[99cobrajn]

badass list!! will be fun!!

 

[Hangman]

Fuel, let's see. If you're E85 at 750 wheels, you can probably get away with just a boost a pump on the factory pumps. You might need bigger injectors, but I wouldn't go 1300 or bigger until you need them. Injector sizing isn't one of those "bigger is better" items. Run them when you need them, but give your tuner the ease of tuning it with properly sized injectors.

How can I say this succinctly, Fore systems are great for drag racing applications. They're largely a "it's the best we can do" affair for street and not exactly optimal for "road racing."

With the IRS in our cars, there isn't a way to mount the tank rear and low. We have what's referred to as a saddle style tank, which means there's two reservoirs, one on each side of the driveshaft tunnel. The problem is, there's an "active" side and a passive side. The active side, where the pumps are, draw fuel and push it to the motor. The "passive" side has a pickup and a tube that's syphoned by the flow of the pumps (and a jet syphon) on the pump side. The problem is, under high demand and certain conditions, the pump bucket can become starved for fuel. When you turn left, the inertia sends the fuel up and over the crossover to the right side saddle (away from the pumps). The jet syphon can only syphon fuel so quickly and the pumps get starved for fuel. Under long sweeping left turns, or even hard left turns when you're at say less than 50% fuel level, it can send all the remaining fuel over to the passive side. Then as you exit or on your next mash, you run dry on fuel. This is why most tuners and vendors recommend you do NOT run a high hp car with a return style setup less than a certain fuel level.

Bottom line, in order to keep your expensive stuff from getting fried, you're going to need to either never run less than 3/4 of a tank at the track OR you can install lift pumps, fuel mat, surge tank, etc.

I don't think there's any data on additional cooling, but it's recommended by virtually everyone, especially if you're here in SFL where Summer temps are murderous even without the extra heat of more power.

The front clip push pins are what you see with a bunch of guys who either remove the front clip a lot or over time it just starts to sag and pull away from the attachments.
QL25

The drain plug has a few threads about it, if you get tired of breaking them and/or replacing them, just get a UPR (or there's another brand I think).

I want to be able to dial the boost up on command and still make good power. I want enough injector to be able to make 1000-1300 whp. I don’t want the limiting factor to only be injectors if I decide I want to then the boost up for a half mile event or some roll racing fun.

the goal is still primary road racing. We will see how it goes.

interesting about the saddle style fuel tank. I’m gonna have to look into this and make sure we won’t run into a problem as we race the car.