2v turbo

[asbenjamin101]

So I been trying to help alot of people out when it comes to turbos and the 2v.
This is very easy to decide in my opinion due to dollar amount vs hp.
The kit itself is simple and honestly helps out alot because you actually upgrade your front end suspension.
You will need these to make it work
A good running 2v
Manual or auto the only difference is the 12%-15% loss for auto.
Upr k member kit. (A ARMS COILOVERS AND K MEMBER)
on3 single or twin turbo kit your choice here.
60lb injectors
255 or better fuel pump
Boost a pump
Slot style maf
Ngk tr plugs but I recommend brisk spark plugs. The electrode doesn't protrude into the cylinder like the tr6 plugs which can burn that tip of causing engine failure as it did my old engine. Both works but it helps to know more
Stock 70mm tb or plenum style with manifold is perfect for the stock engine setup.
When upgrading your intake manifold to the edelbrock style it was a easy install
You can buy the intake manifold from any place
MMR bracket is needed if using stock TB
Edelbrock fuel rails and lines from modular heads hope.
You will need a adapter for the frps if you stock returnless which again is easy 30 bucks from mmr or eBay.
Thats it.
Stock motor auto turbo kit u might see 410 415 area.
Stock motor manual turno kit u might see 425 430 area.
This is all still depending on ur tune and what parts u have or have not installed.

Instagram benni614_turbo2v
YouTube
Car club IG deviouskustomz

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[Three21]

Good point on the TR6s, I run the BR7EF plugs for the same reason - no projected tip.
I've also had better luck with the factory coils.

If you have the downtime I would highly recommend doing some legwork before throwin the turbo kit on a tired 100,000 mile engine. It will leave you some room to grow, especially since believe me it is very easy to crank up the boost with a turbo once you get it going.

• Re-use stock crank, and stock block
• Bore the block 0.010" over or the least you can get away with
• Forged rods, forged pistons
• Freshen the heads by having them resurfaced and a 3 angle valve job (valve job is more of a nice to have)
• New 120lb seat pressure valve springs, new valve seals

 

[asbenjamin101]

Good point on the TR6s, I run the BR7EF plugs for the same reason - no projected tip.
I've also had better luck with the factory coils.

If you have the downtime I would highly recommend doing some legwork before throwin the turbo kit on a tired 100,000 mile engine. It will leave you some room to grow, especially since believe me it is very easy to crank up the boost with a turbo once you get it going.

• Re-use stock crank, and stock block
• Bore the block 0.010" over or the least you can get away with
• Forged rods, forged pistons
• Freshen the heads by having them resurfaced and a 3 angle valve job (valve job is more of a nice to have)
• New 120lb seat pressure valve springs, new valve seals

Are u saying on my motor or in general. I have a fully built engine with 6k on it now lol. But I had 2 failing coils and wanted to try something a tad different with coils and tbh I have great response with the coils I have. But yes this info i sent up on here was for mainly any 2v that were stock ish that was thinking power adder.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk