5W/40 Full Syn

betiwin

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So I went to the local oil change place and told them do a full service with full synthetic. Well read the receipt and found they used fully synthetic 5W/40. I dont road race or really drag race mostly a weekend cruiser. Is this going to be an issue or am I still ok on the warm end.
 

stkjock

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you're fine

you may want to read thru the oil thread by "UnleasedBeast" lots of info
 

PistolWhip

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I think people worry too much about brands of oil. Just change it frequently.

More bad advice... There is an entire thread of about eleventy million posts that include oil analyses reports from multiple independent labs and almost all of them prove at least one point. If you go by the above advice, you are wasting A LOT of money and A LOT of oil. I have gotten to the point with Amsoil Signature 10w-40 full synthetic, where I am completely comfortable extending my oil changes out to once or twice a year depending on how hard the car is driven; I try to time it so that it's right in the beginning of the spring and I send out a sample at the end of the fall (I will change it more often if it gets raced or dynoe'd hard, but I average about 2000 miles a year on my Shelby). All of my Amsoil analyses reports have been returned with positive results with Amsoil. My reports with other brands did not reflect the ability to stretch out changes that long and some of them showed some concerning shearing levels after not even 1000 miles. Amsoil has proven not only capable, but still holding its weight impressively after long change intervals.
RedLine is the only other oil that came even close to the durability of Amsoil. Mobil 1, Motorcraft, and Castrol exhibited severe shearing at 6 month change intervals and Valvoline and Penzoil (their best offerings) while strong, didn't impress me with the durability of their additive packages.

There is a lot more to motor oil these days, as specially in a $20k 850+ HP engine. Remember, if you're making 650 to the wheels, your engine is likely pushing close to or even over 800 at the crank depending on drive train loss and dyno load. If you're willing to tempt fate with any ole' oil that's on sale just because you "change it often" have at it, but I promise you that if you take the time to research the topic objectively you will rethink your approach.
 
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lubrizolsfin3st

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I use synthetic but hey I work for the worlds largest additives plant. I should know a little about oil, just ask Mr. Buffet
My earlier post was just a joke but if you couldn't tell that then that sucks for you.
 

CodyK7

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Maybe I should just stop posting. It's my opinion.

I don't buy any old oil but people freak out about Castrol vs motorcraft and it just doesn't matter. I know you are going to right an essay back but don't waste your time. I guess if you were trying to keep a car for 30 years and have 200,000 miles on the motor you could really analyze the oil
 

lubrizolsfin3st

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I also don't give a rats .... about the brand of oil as long as it's new and synthetic I'll buy it. Also because I usually don't keep a vehicle no longer than a few years anyways. I honestly think this GT500 is something I'll hold on to for a long time though.
 

NightRide

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Amsoil and royal purple are about the only oils worth buying for our cars. Anything else you might as well go to a quicky lube and let some 18 year old kid put in what he thinks is best. I do agree with the real wear signs on your oil choices will likely be above 100k miles and most only keep their cars a few years. It makes a difference to me as I plan to keep mine for a very long time.
 

stkjock

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I also don't give a rats .... about the brand of oil as long as it's new and synthetic I'll buy it. Also because I usually don't keep a vehicle no longer than a few years anyways. I honestly think this GT500 is something I'll hold on to for a long time though.

what do you do at Lubrizol?
 

Black Cobra '99

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